tyre removal

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stu

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Had the misfortune to puncture the rear tyre going in to work this morning (big screw in the centre of the tread). Back home now, wheel off and i've been in the back yard wrestling with the wheel for a while now. Fortunately its not raining.
Does anyone have any tips for getting the tyre off ? its an Avon Roadrunner on a borrani reccord rim (deep alu rim). I'm following the workshop manual to the T but I can't see the bead of this tyre coming up over that rim anytime soon . .
Soapy water , all air out , bead broken all way round on both sides and trying to lift at the valve but its a tall order. Anyone got any tips ?
cheers
Stu
 
Oh ugh, the main issue I've had to solve was getting lever tool under the pinched tight beat-rim seam,by thinning tool edge. Next was one or 3, long enough to have decent leverage. Big long screw drivers work well. I have tire irons I carry at times but at home I use gasket chisels with corners rounded off a tiny bit. I lever each bead off on its side which still leaves rim in tire lose then shove rim down in tire to tip rim and jerk it out of the tire. Helps to have a very warm tire left in summer sun or hair drier. It can be brutal and easy to ding rims, so some use rim protector like plastic jug cut ups or buy em but they always scoot out in my fumbles so just take aim care each lever placement. It can help to have a 3rd hand to hole first lever down on spokes or tie it there to deal with next lever and new tiny bite on bead.

tyre removal


Then there is my most current way with special tire shoe horn. Skp over the Tubliss part.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmrEFqFk1yo
 
Put the wheel on a large piece of cardboard and put your knees down on the tire on one side. The tire irons that come with the tool kit worked for me for many years but now I'm not strong enough to make them work. I got a pair of large flat tire irons from Harbor Freight and they work very well. Also there are rim protectors made of tough plastic that help protect the aluminum rim for the first few prys. I recommend them especially with your type of rim. I have flanged Akronts and it is a bit of a bitch. You'll work up a sweat!

Russ
 
work up a bit of a sweat ? Try shakey hands, swearing, nosebleeds, thunder and lightning. . . it came off tho and now the tube is in.
Having a sanity break before trying again to get the final bit of bead back over the borrani hi jump :roll:
 
i usually find its easiest to take them to the local bike shop - for $25 if I can avoid sweating/cussin/gouging my rims its worth it :lol:
 
mikegray660 said:
i usually find its easiest to take them to the local bike shop - for $25 if I can avoid sweating/cussin/gouging my rims its worth it :lol:
Click to expand...

If this is your first time, you can expect to have to take on and off at least a couple more time due to that fact that the tube will surely get pinched. You may want to take Mike advice.

If not then make sure the bead is in the center if the rim to allow as much relief as possible to the work (opposite)side. A little lube, make sure ALL the air is out. Get some tire irons from a shop.
 
Well . . tyre back on and 26psi of air in there and holding good. Apart from the effort of getting the bead on and off the alloy rim the other surprise/tricky bit was getting the tyre rolling groove dead centre down the wheel line (I'm an architect and have a fine eye for these things) After much bouncing of tyre / wheel etc I reckon its as good as It'll go for me. I guess these tyres must self centre to a degree ?

Mike - I'll probably take this approach in the future but for now I'm on the DIY commando learning curve . .
 
Ditto on HF large tar irons. I file down the edges to help reduce tube slicing.
Find that they are most useful for first part of removal but too much for
reinstallation. I use the little ones that come in the toolkit.
Biggest thing is to move slowly and with your fingers make sure the
tube is pushed out of the way of the tool. I use straight dish soap
and lots of it. I squat on the tire to hold the part that is on and work
my way into the part not yet mounted. The last bit is actually
easy esp is you soap it up.
If it isnt centered when mounted I use serious amounts of air
after again soaping the bead to rim area.
Alloy rims are at risk due to softness but at least you can dress
them out if you nick them. Same with SS but chrome, well there is the rub.
 
One of the handiest things I have for changing motorcycle tires is a Harbor Freight bead breaker.


tyre removal
 
Oh yeah too often the bead won't break loose of the rim w/o a device like the commerical bead breaker clamps or levers or DIY by C-clamps and maybe blocks under jaws, if Ya Good enough to do so, which I"m not. May take a couple of clamp points plus stomping down with lubricate added and even heat.

I'd had some tires tight after use tools would bend or rim would about give or me give out, so modified a cable and a bolt cutter and slice across whole tire to just let if fall off. Bad Ju ju to leave stem retaining nut down on the rim any.
 
I have a bead breaker like that, works vertical well. I also gave long irons. Recently I purchased a motion pro travel kit. I have been using it the most. It has short irons, and if you have everything setup correctly that's all that's needed. After you do a few and learn the ins and outs, it becomes simple, just like anything else.
 
Once in a while I have to change the tyre on the JD2020, front of course. They never want to come off the bead, so I just drive the P/U over it and use the digging bar or a 12 lb maul to knock it off the bead. However, I would not recommend this with an aluminum M/C rim.

Dave
69S
 
I've got one of those mechanical bead breakers must be 50 years old and, you're right, they work great. In the shop though, I'm lucky to be able to use my Snap-On tire machine to break them down with the pneumatic breaker. Two things I do though, after who knows how many MC tire dismount, mount and balances, is to use a good quality tire lube rather than dish soap. The soap is mostly water and I don't like to leave a coating of water between the tire and (especially) a steel wheel.

The other is to dust the tube - especially a new one - with baby powder before installing. It allows the tube to settle in nicely without hanging up on the inside of the tire. Then we inflate til the bead seats the best it's going to at that point and then leave the air out of the tube again to give it a chance to move around inside the tire if it needs to. At this point both the beads are given a last coat of tire lube and the tire is inflated a last time, making sure the beads are both fully seated before balancing. Doesn't take long and works well.
 
I steal a good gob of tire lube from tire shops when stopping in for another car tire flat. Bring a little container for convenience.
 
Just changed a tire myself today (not on a Norton) and made a fixture to hold the wheel, made all the difference, waaay easier than wrestling with it on the ground. Used a big C clamp to break the bead. When I mounted the tire I used six 24" zip ties and that worked great, no rim damage, pinched tube, etc, got the idea at http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299597
FWIW the wheel fixture is a cut down bucket, a piece of ply wood, a length of angle iron, another length of threaded 5/8" rod and some nuts, bolts and washers.
First time I tried the zip tie method but will do it this way from now on, quick, easy and no damage to the tire, tube, or rim
Also bought a gallon of Ruglyde tire mounting lube from Napa, that helped too, better than the soapy water I used until now...and a valve fishing tool too, includes a screw on deflator so you can be sure the tube is empty when doing a change

tyre removal


tyre removal
 
No Gov't official not even IRS knows where I sleep with my Norton, so would have to catch me first ...
 
Boy oh Boy, yesterday must have been tire changing day. I did the front tire on my BMW and ache all over today. I did however go for an early morning ride to check out the new skin. I used to do tires and tubes myself with no trouble, however, no I am an old fart and seem to really struggle. It is really best to have another set of hands as the tire irons are continually escaping. I found glycerin mixed with water in a spray bottle provided the best glide. The problem doing it solo is getting the beads into the drop center of the rim. I tried to make a couple of wooden arcs to go in the vise to squeeze the beads together but it did not work. I have the rear tire to do on the Norton so I am definitely going to get the package tie straps from h/f for the next attempt. What a great idea.
 
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