Turn signals

holtcorseaux

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No - I have negative earth
Cheers
Rob
Hi I have mo.stop fitted to positive earth with normal bulbs no Problem. Black lead connected to white, red to light green/ brown. Great idea from Ludwig I fitted it for safety when he wrote about it in the previous thread.

Martin
 
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I have replica's on my A75 Mk2, they are lock tighted and have never shifted, but the quality of the chrome on the stems is very average, so I would like to replace them with stainless if I can track down something suitable?
 

YING

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Hi I have mo.stop fitted to positive earth with normal bulbs no Problem. Black lead connected to white, red to light green/ brown. Great idea from Ludwig I fitted it for safety when he wrote about it in the previous thread.

Martin
Thanks for the replies. I love the size of the unit!
 

robs ss

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Thanks for the replies. I love the size of the unit!
Yep - I like that too. Easy to install as well.
The only downsides I have found, after 8 months use, are:
1. "timing out" at long traffic lights (another forgetful issue in itself!)
2. If unit has timed out it won't always indicate (in the same direction) on first push of the button - not a show stopper but nonetheless annoying.

For those reasons I'm looking closely at Kisan SignalMinder SM-1 (obviously too much time on my hands!)
It also apparently allows indicators to be used as brake and running lights.
As I age (now 63) and my reflexes certainly slow, anything that improves my "road visibility" is a bonus in my mind.
No - I'm not going to stop riding - yet, anyway.
Cheers
 

YING

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Hi I have mo.stop fitted to positive earth with normal bulbs no Problem. Black lead connected to white, red to light green/ brown. Great idea from Ludwig I fitted it for safety when he wrote about it in the previous thread.

Martin
Thanks Martin,
I have all LED bulbs along with an LED flasher running with positive ground.It looks like your white wire is the power coming up from the harness. I wanted to know if my LED bulbs would be a problem.Everything works fine now but I want the self-canceling up-grade.The vender I bought it from says it will not work but I don’t see why.The flasher I have now is polarity sensitive.
Thanks,
Mike
 

holtcorseaux

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Thanks Martin,
I have all LED bulbs along with an LED flasher running with positive ground.It looks like your white wire is the power coming up from the harness. I wanted to know if my LED bulbs would be a problem.Everything works fine now but I want the self-canceling up-grade.The vender I bought it from says it will not work but I don’t see why.The flasher I have now is polarity sensitive.
Thanks,
Mike
Hi Mike, it will work you replace the LED flasher by the the mo.stop with the wires connected like mine. Yes white is power from harness. Motogadget supply a little resistor , which you should wire in series if needed (probably yes for LED)

Martin
 
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I have replica's on my A75 Mk2, they are lock tighted and have never shifted, but the quality of the chrome on the stems is very average, so I would like to replace them with stainless if I can track down something suitable?
RGM have stainless indicator stems in long and short plus locking nuts in stainless.

 

robs ss

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I use a Kisan Signal minder on my neg earth bonneville.
Tornado
Have there been any unexpected undesirable features/flaws with the Kisan unit you have been using?
Oh - and is yours the SM-1?
Cheers
Rob
 

YING

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Hi Mike, it will work you replace the LED flasher by the the mo.stop with the wires connected like mine. Yes white is power from harness. Motogadget supply a little resistor , which you should wire in series if needed (probably yes for LED)

Martin
Thanks Martin
Not trying to be stupid but I am not sure where the resistors get wired into the circuit as I don’t know what wired in series means
Thanks for your help
Mike
 

holtcorseaux

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Thanks Martin
Not trying to be stupid but I am not sure where the resistors get wired into the circuit as I don’t know what wired in series means
Thanks for your help
Mike
Hi Mike no Problem it is just one Resistor you wire in between the red out of mo.stop (on positive earth!) and the light green/ brown which goes to handlebar switch. Fit it with connectors then you can use it or not as required.

Martin
 

maylar

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The resistor is only used for the brake light function, not for blinkers.
 

texasSlick

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The resistor is only used for the brake light function, not for blinkers.
To elaborate on this .... I installed a supposedly polarity insensitive LED equivalent to an 1157 incandescent for the stop/tail function. I found the tail lamp had the same brightness as the brake function. The solution was to install a 27 Ohm resistor in series in the tail light feed wire.

Regarding making the blinkers (intended for negative earth) work with positive earth:

One can make any equipment work with either positive or negative earth, if you keep the new equipment electrically isolated from the original circuits. This means the negative and positive wires of the new equipment must connect to the negative and positive battery terminals respectively, and isolation requires no sharing of functions between the new and original circuits.

Trouble occurs when one attempts to share, as in using the original blinker warning light with new blinker equipment having the opposite polarity. Diodes placed in the right place in the circuit will solve this problem. This has been addressed in other threads, so I will not elaborate here.

Slick
 

holtcorseaux

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To elaborate on this .... I installed a supposedly polarity insensitive LED equivalent to an 1157 incandescent for the stop/tail function. I found the tail lamp had the same brightness as the brake function. The solution was to install a 27 Ohm resistor in series in the tail light feed wire.

Regarding making the blinkers (intended for negative earth) work with positive earth:

One can make any equipment work with either positive or negative earth, if you keep the new equipment electrically isolated from the original circuits. This means the negative and positive wires of the new equipment must connect to the negative and positive battery terminals respectively, and isolation requires no sharing of functions between the new and original circuits.

Trouble occurs when one attempts to share, as in using the original blinker warning light with new blinker equipment having the opposite polarity. Diodes placed in the right place in the circuit will solve this problem. This has been addressed in other threads, so I will not elaborate here.

Slick
Hi Slick yes that is right but I am only writing about replacement of the flasher unit by the mo.stop electronic flasher unit, leaving the indicators as is. It works as designed, also on a positive earth bike and including turn signal warning lamp. I have never had even the most minor issue with it. I wish everything I buy worked as well.

Martin
 

Tornado

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Tornado
Have there been any unexpected undesirable features/flaws with the Kisan unit you have been using?
Oh - and is yours the SM-1?
Cheers
Rob
I believe mine is the SM-3 (most euro and japanese bikes). As far as I know, they are only different in terms of the connection plug (2 or 3 prong flasher unit replacement) and may be the bits included to mod the turn signal switch on handle bars.
There has been no surprises with my setup. Works reliably (as long as I keep it dry).
I also run their TailBlazer brake light flasher which has been fine for 6 yrs.
I run LEDs all round the Bonneville and the one turn warning light is also LED as stock. There are slight differences mentioned in the guide for different lights and warning lamp configs.
 

robs ss

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There has been no surprises with my setup. Works reliably (as long as I keep it dry).
Mine (Signalminder SM-1) has arrived and I'm interested in the real-life workability of:
1. using indicators as running lights, and
2. using the rear indicators as additional (flashing) brake lights
My concern is - does it potentially result in a "confused" set of messages to other road users, or is it really clear?
Have you, or anyone else, tried these options and offer advice?
Cheers
Rob
 
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bsaboss

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Mine (SM-1) has arrived and I'm interested in the real-life workability of:
1. using indicators as running lights, and
2. using the rear indicators as additional (flashing) brake lights
My concern is - does it potentially result in a "confused" set of messages to other road users, or is it really clear?
Have you, or anyone else, tried these options and offer advice?
Cheers
Rob
I've run Signalminder units on a few bikes now and think they're great. I don't have it wired to do anything other than cancel the indicators. In Oz (where we have yellow indicators) I think having your rear indicators flashing when you brake would just confuse most motorists. I don't think the front indicators would be all that flash (sorry about the pun) as running lights either. A few years ago I ran a little device that made the headlight flicker during the day. The flickering light made it very noticeable, far more so than a light that was just on. I'll have to see if I can find what it was called. It came with a photoelectric sensor so it only worked during the day and gave a normal solid light when it was dark.
 

robs ss

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I've run Signalminder units on a few bikes now and think they're great. I don't have it wired to do anything other than cancel the indicators. In Oz (where we have yellow indicators) I think having your rear indicators flashing when you brake would just confuse most motorists. I don't think the front indicators would be all that flash (sorry about the pun) as running lights either. A few years ago I ran a little device that made the headlight flicker during the day. The flickering light made it very noticeable, far more so than a light that was just on. I'll have to see if I can find what it was called. It came with a photoelectric sensor so it only worked during the day and gave a normal solid light when it was dark.
Thanks - I'm only changing from the Motogadget Mo-stop for the feature of Signalminder to pause the countdown while the brakes are on.
I think I will then get away with the 10 second flash option
Cheers
 

Tornado

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I believe the indicators as brake flasher option only works on all four corners as there is no way for it to activate the two rear indicators alone, due to common circuits for F/B left or F/B right lamps.

I do not run brake flashing option a bit too disco for me.
I run their TailBlazer brake lamp flasher unit to help prevent rear enders. Uses a decaying 2 or 3 second rate of flash before becoming constant.


I do like the side marker option and have run that way for some years. It can only help you stand out in traffic. The lamps seem to be at a slightly lower brightness as markers. Then when signaling, the lamp pair cycles to off, then that pair goes to a full brightness on/off cycle, while opposite pair stay at the lower constant brightness. I run all LEDs so the effect might be different for incandescents.

I also have the auto flasher shut off set to maximum 30 blinks/seconds. I like this for those times when needing longer times for indicating while on a slow moving exit ramp etc. Would not want flashing to stop while still wanting it, as it could confuse others as to my intent. I can cancel it manually if needed for shorter time.
My advice for you is to try out all the options and have a fellow rider/driver give feedback on how it all is perceived. I've not had anyone ever complain about my lights.
 

robs ss

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Thanks for your input @Tornado - it has helped a lot.
I wired the Kisan Signalminder SM-1 in today (replacing the Motogadget M-Stop).
I connected the (optional) brake, left & right indicators giving me running lights as well as the brake-induced pause in the indicator cancel countdown.
I then wired the M-Stop (changed from Mode 7 to Mode 4) so that when the brake is applied I get 8 rapid flashes of the brake light (5Hz) before solid "on" (actually it pulses each second).
I'll go for a ride with a friend behind me to ensure the result is safer and not confusing.
I'm pretty sure the result will be :).
 
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