Trying to revive a 1973 Roadster
- Thread starter GUTS
- Start date
- Status
The diagram I'm trying to use shows the brown/blue wire going from the battery to the rectifier, then the zener diode, then the capacitor, then to the switch, with two branching off to the power port and the flasher. Is this right? I want to do a continuity test from point to point and see where the open is. When you guys get tired of me let me know and I will go back to my Kawasaki's. :wink: I do appreciate the help.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 5,157
Yes correct. So put the key in the switch and start turning it . and spray it with WD 4o too. Never trusted a Lucas Ign. switch myself . All electrical tracings are frustrating until eureka point. Replace all connectors with modern ones too. Should only take you 3 days of hard work and frustration. :lol: Yes listen to Dave and forget job, book in sick ?
DogT
VIP MEMBER
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- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
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If you're not getting spark by directly connecting the battery to the coils, something else is going on. Measure the coil resistance between the + and - terminals (should be few ohms) and also from + or - to ground should be very large ohms, disconnect them when measuring. Could be the capacitors too. Until you get spark with power to the ignition circuit and opening and closing points, I wouldn't go any further. Make sure the ignition circuit is fully functional first. Like I said, reading voltage with the VOM can be very misleading too, especially if there are bad junctions in the harness/switches/ground points. It's very difficult to diagnose from a distance. Just because you see voltage somewhere doesn't mean it's there when you try to make it work.
Deets55
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guts,
Look at the diagram LAB posted. Top right hand corner. Disregard all other wires at the moment. Run a wire from the negative side of the battery to negative side of both coils using the ballast resistor. Putting 12 volts into 6 volt coils might overheat them. Check and see if wires from positive side of coils to points are in good shape and points are opening and closing and set correctly. Make sure there are no shorted wires going to points.
Make sure you have a good ground to frame and engine. Make a jumper from + battery to engine it self if necessary.
With HT leads connected to spark plugs and plugs touching motor kick the bike over. There should be a spark on one of the plugs, if there is not you have bad coils or condensers. Odds of all four being bad are slim.
This eliminates all other wires and circuits and narrows it down to coils, condensers, points or a piece of funky wiring between the above mentioned. Testing coils and condensers is not a simple thing, testing wiring is easy with a meter. I feel your pain, been there myself.
Look at the diagram LAB posted. Top right hand corner. Disregard all other wires at the moment. Run a wire from the negative side of the battery to negative side of both coils using the ballast resistor. Putting 12 volts into 6 volt coils might overheat them. Check and see if wires from positive side of coils to points are in good shape and points are opening and closing and set correctly. Make sure there are no shorted wires going to points.
Make sure you have a good ground to frame and engine. Make a jumper from + battery to engine it self if necessary.
With HT leads connected to spark plugs and plugs touching motor kick the bike over. There should be a spark on one of the plugs, if there is not you have bad coils or condensers. Odds of all four being bad are slim.
This eliminates all other wires and circuits and narrows it down to coils, condensers, points or a piece of funky wiring between the above mentioned. Testing coils and condensers is not a simple thing, testing wiring is easy with a meter. I feel your pain, been there myself.
I did some more probing with the volt meter, checking continuity. Leaving the black/white stripe and the black/yellow stripe wires hooked to each coil I put one test lead on the coil terminal with the black/white stripe wire and the other lead on the black/white stripe wire on the points and it showed continuity, no breaks. When I put the lead on the black/yellow stripe wire on the other coil and put the other lead on the black/yellow stripe wire at the points I have nothing. If I leave it attached to the black/yellow stripe wire on the coil and touch the other lead to the black/white stripe wire on the other set of points I have continuity. When I put the meter lead on the black/yellow stripe wire at the points and touch it to either of the coil bodies it beeps and shows continuity. I believe something is crossed or broken somewhere.
I tested the wires again after I unhooked them from the coils and the black/white stripe wire still has good continuity to the point and the black/yellow stripe wire does not. I need to find out where it's broken. Would this cause the no power anywhere situation that I have? I wouldn't think so but I'm a little stumped.
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2008
- Messages
- 362
It might help to ignore the stock wiring for the moment and use this simplified diagram?
http://www.oldbritts.com/simp_wd.html
http://www.oldbritts.com/simp_wd.html
Thanks again for all the input fellas. I've been checking continuity and have found a couple of wires that have intermittent continuity so I guess the harness needs to be disassembled(like I was told to do in the first couple of replies 
). Is there a good aftermarket harness to be had or do I have to rebuild this one. Was the original harness for this bike wrapped with braided cloth or black tape?
). Is there a good aftermarket harness to be had or do I have to rebuild this one. Was the original harness for this bike wrapped with braided cloth or black tape?
concours
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- Messages
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GUTS said:Thanks again for all the input fellas. I've been checking continuity and have found a couple of wires that have intermittent continuity so I guess the harness needs to be disassembled(like I was told to do in the first couple of replies
If it isn't all chopped and modified, repairing the original only where it is failed is what I would recommend. The wires going down to the points are readily available, very easy job. http://www.britishwiring.com/product-p/mc952.htm or your local Britbike shop.
The aftermarket harnesses are available, but, more work, accounts of too short leads, etc. IMHO.
The break near the fuse holder is unsupported device and vibration, most likely. I tie mine off to a nearby hose for support.
Deets55
VIP MEMBER
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- Oct 3, 2013
- Messages
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+1 concours
If not in bad shape carefully slice it open,inspect all wires and replace /repair what is needed. Clean and coat all connectors and use dielectric grease. I would run an extra set of wires to the headlight shell for your headlight and use relays to control them. Same for horn. I like marine grade wire the best. 16 or 18 AWG
plug and play relays:
http://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Relay-W ... +relay+kit
Nice wire wrap but expensive:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless/764/7091 ... 7AodGC0ALg
Glad you found your problem(s)
Pete
If not in bad shape carefully slice it open,inspect all wires and replace /repair what is needed. Clean and coat all connectors and use dielectric grease. I would run an extra set of wires to the headlight shell for your headlight and use relays to control them. Same for horn. I like marine grade wire the best. 16 or 18 AWG
plug and play relays:
http://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Relay-W ... +relay+kit
Nice wire wrap but expensive:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless/764/7091 ... 7AodGC0ALg
Glad you found your problem(s)
Pete
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2010
- Messages
- 5,789
dagnabit
Ducati gave up on Blitish eklectrickery , and used BOSH or Jap. stuff .
The Switchblocks relly need the contacts inside inspecting for degeneration .
Claening ( stoneing ) the contact points & seeing the tension is ok & the contacts mate is necessary .
Wiring Colour Code Table
Many British designed vehicles use colour coded cables to assist in identifying the various circuits in use. This is an extract from BS-AU7a 1983 Colour Code for Vehicle Wiring, from the British Standards Institution, 2 Park St., London W1A 2BS.
(Note that these colour codes may not apply directly to older cars. For example, the wipers on cars up to 1980 (at least) are not on a separate fuse circuit, so they are not orange, but green. Check the schematic for your car to be certain. - cak)
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Black All earth connections
Black Brown Tachometer generator to tachometer
Black Blue Tachometer generator to tachometer
Black Red Electric or electronic speedometer to sensor
Black Purple Tempreature switch to warning light
Black Green Relay to radiator fan motor
Black Light green Vacuum brake switch or brake differential pressure valve to warning light and/or buzzer
Black White Brake fluid level warning light to switch and handbrake swith, or radio to speakers
Black yellow Electric speedometer
Black Orange Radiator fan motor to thermal switch
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Blue Lighting switch (head) to dip switch
Blue Brown Headlamp relay to headlamp fuse
Blue Red Dip switch to headlamp dip beam fuse
Fuse to right-hand dip headlamp
Blue Light green Headlamp wiper motor to headlamp wash pump motor
Blue White a) Dip switch to headlamp main beam fuse
b)Headlamp flasher to main beam fuse
c)Dip switch main beam warning light
d)Dip switch to long-range driving light switch
Blue Yellow Long-range driving light switch to lamp
Blue Black Fuse to right-hand main headlamp
Blue Pink Fuse to left-hand dip headlamp
Blue Slate Headlamp main beam fuse to left-hand headlamp or inboard headlamps when independently fused
Blue Orange Fushe to right-hand dip headlamp
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Brown Main battery lead
Brow Blue Control box (compensated voltage control only) to ignition switch and lighting switch (feed)
Brown Red Compression ignition starting aid to switch
Main battery feed to double pole ignition switch
Brown Purple Alternator regulator feed
Brown Green Dynamo 'F' to controlboxl 'F'
Alternator field 'F' to control box 'F'
Brown White Ammeter to control box
Ammeter to main alternator terminal
Brown Yellow Alternator to 'no charge' warning light
Brown Black Alternator battery sensing lead
Brown Slate Starter relay contact to starter solenoid
Brown Orange Fuel shut-off (diesel stop)
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Green Accessories fuesed via ignition switch
Green Brown Switch to reverse lamp
Gree Blue Water temperature gauge to temperature unit
Green Red Direction indicator switch to left-hand flasher lamps
Green Purple Stop lamp switch to stop lamps, or stop lamp switch to lamp failure unit
Green Light green Hazard flasher unit to hazard pilot lamp or lamp failure unit to stop lamp bulbs
Green White Direction indicator switch to right hand flasher lamps
Green Yellow Heater motor to switch single speed (or to 'slow' on tow- or three-speed motor)
Green Black Fuel gauge to fuel tank unit or changeover switch or voltage stabilizer to tank units
Green Pink Fuse to flasher unit
Green Slate a)Heater motor to switch ('fast' on two- or three-speed motor)
b)Coolant level unit to warning light
Green Orange Low fuel level switch to warning light
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Light green Instrument voltage stabilizer to instruments
Light green Brown Flasher switch to flasher unit
Light green Blue a)Flasher switch to left-hand flasher warning light
b)Coolant level sensor to control unit
c)Test switch to coolan level control unit
Light green Red Fuel tank changeover switch to right-hand tank unit or entry and exit door closed switch to door actuator
Light green Purple Flasher unit to flasher warning light
Light green Green Start inhibitor relay to change speed switch; or switch to heater blower motor second speed on three-speed unit
Light green White Low air pressure switch to buzzer and warning light
Light green Yellow Flasher switch to right-hand warning light; or differential lock switch to differential lock warning light
Light green Black Front screen jet switch to screen jet motor
Light green Slate Fuel tank changeover switch to left-hand tank unit; or entry and exit door open switch to door actuator
Light green Orange Rear window wash switch to wash pump; or cab lock-down switch to warning light
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Orange Wiper circuits fused via ignition switch
Orange Blue Switch to front screen wiper motor first speed timer or intermittend unit
Orange Green Switch to front screen wiper motor second speed
Orange Black Switch to front screen wiper motor parking cicuit, timer or intermittent unit
Orange Purple Timer or intermittent unit to motor parking circuit
Orange White Timer or intermittent unit to motor parking circuit
Orange Yellow Switch to headlamp or rear window wiper motor feed, timer or relay coil
Orange Light green Switch to headlamp or rear window wiper motor parking circuit timer or relay coil
Orange Pink Timer or relay to headlamp or rear window wiper motor feed
Orange Slate Timer or relay to headlamp or rear window wiper motor parking circuit
Pink white Ballast terminal to ignition distributor
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Purple Accessories fed direct from battery via fuse
Purple Brown Horn fuse to horn relay when horn is fused separately
Purple Blue Fuse to heated rear window relay or switch and warning light
Purple Red Switches to map light, under bonnet light, glove box light and boot lamp when fed direct from battery fuse
Purple Green Fuse to hazard flasher
Purple Light green Fuse to relay for screen demist
Purple White Interior lights to switch (subsidiary circuit door safety lights to switch)
Purple Yellow Horn to horn relay
Purple Black Horn to horn relay to horn push
Purple Pink Rear heated window to switch or relay
Purple Slate Aerial lift motor to switch up
Purple Orange Aerial lift motor to switch down
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Red Main feed to all circuits mastered by sidelamp switch
Red Brown Rear fog guard switch to lamps
Red Blue Front fog lamp fuse to fog lamp switch
Red Purple Switches to map light, under bonnet light, glove box light and boot lamp when sidelamp circuit fed
Red Green Bulb failure unit to right-hand-side and rear lamps
Red White a)Sidelamp fuse to right-hand side and rear lamps
b)Sidelamp fuse to panel light rheostat
c)Fuse to panel light switch or rheostat
d)Fuse to fibre optic source
Red Yellow Fog lamp switch to fog lamp or front fog fuse to fog lamps
Red Blakc Left-hand,sidelamp fuse to side and tail lamps and number plate illumination
Red Pink Sidelamp fuse to lighting relay
Red Slate Lamp failure unit to lef-hand side and tail lamps
Red Orange Fusebox to rear fog guard switch
Slate Window lift main lead
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
White Ignition switch or starter solenoid to ballast resistor
White Brown Oil pressure switch to warning light or gauge, or starter relay to oil pressure switch
White Blue Choke switch to choke solenoid (unfused) and/or choke to switch to warning light, or electronic ignition distributor to drive resistor
White Red Starter switch to starter solenoid or inhibitor switch or starter relay or ignition (start position) to bulb failure unit
White Purple Fuel pump no 1 or right-hand to changeover switch
White Green Fuel pump no 2 or left-hand to changeover switch
White Light green Start switch to starter interlock or oil pressure switch to fuel pump or start inhibitor switch to starter relay or solenoid
White Yellow Ballast resistor to coil or starter solenoid to coil
White Black Ignition coil contact breaker to distributor contact breaker, or distributor side of coil to voltage impulse tachometer
White Pink Ignition switch to radio fuse
White Slate Current tachometer to ignition coil
White Orange Hazard warning lead to switch
Yellow a)Overdrive
b)Petrol injection
http://www.dimebank.com/LucasColours.html
:x
Er . . .
SEPERATEING to CHARGE / IGNITION / LIGHTING / & auxillaries gets it separate and comprehendable .
But I think we're degressing . To Fire it Up , You NEED the IGNITION - stuff all there - Coils to Points , and a Live Lead from the local
neuclear power station , or a battery . :wink:
Trailer Wie ( 5 and 7 core ) is often useable for the switchblocks , butll be the modern Euro Colour Code . :x Buts Still CODED ,
so isn't insurmountable . But if thyre all good up there , leave as be .
Most of the components like the H Lamp Switch & Ign Sw are common to 60s pommy cars ( junk yard stuff ) . Good place to purloin a
great pile of correctly colour coded wire & connectors , idiot lights & solenoids too .
Thought the Ign sw to pisspotical to persevere with , so tossed & fitted NEW & 10 3 Posn lock / switch . Those cheap ones are nasty - as fitted .
Looked at like a aircraft or ralley Car , you through in good main core wires , and follow through , one system at a time . When you need the Full Loom .
Were replacements ( original / ) for about $ 150 a while back . MkIIIs are NVT Era , common to T 160 ( electric start ) thus extra wires .
Some have the Cop wires included ( supurflous )
Any 69 to 75 loom should suit . a Bonneville one would even work , if the lengths match . The diagram may be more comprehendable .
I get the colour pencils out on the nasty black & white ones , for main wires .
Were ' standard ' clips & fittings ( wire end fittings ) freely available from pommy car suppliers ( Trade Supplyers )
The hideous Brass Bullets are good for gougeing 1/8 diameter trenches in the fingers - pulling the conectors when stuck .
ALL Spade Connections need cleaning & tweaking with plyers to get correct fit if ancient and osmosified & oxidiesed .
If its all bright and brassey in the back of the handlebar switchblocks they may be ok as is - with a good dose of C.R.C. etc .
Got a soldering iron ?? its a bit of a bind salveageing some fittings , but knocking up new points leads , and throwing on
a few wires will have it FIRED UP .
We wont get onto the Contact Breaker / auto advance ASSEMBLY . Yet . Same Proceedure . Strip Clean , square up . lube and set .
Some people fit solid state fit & forget ign triggers , for some reason . If you like working on steam trains you might enjoy setting up
the standard ignition .
Whatever , it wants ZERO innacuacies to blow off those Hondas . & Kawasakis's :mrgreen: One Thing at a Time .
You don't need the key assy & lights to GO for a spin . A twisted join in Ign. Main will serve as a circuit break , as needs must .
Don't Even Need the Charge set up . Yet .
The 73 Mk 5 is pretty sorted ex factory , as theyed ditched the trashier tripe by then , so don't get despondent or discouraged .
That Milage its pretty much a once in a lifetime opportunity for us non millionaires . Particularly with a Know History .
Soo the MAIN THING is not to wreck anything . Diligant patience and perseverance will have it UNAPROACHABLE .
They were trying to make a expensive to produce machine at a affordable price , So you get the Core Unit & theres room to improve a few details . Like Fit 32 mm Dellorto Pumpers , if you hate mikunis or cant find Mk II AMALS . :twisted:
Blueprinted , or Electronic Ignition - and itll Haul the Coal .
Chuck us a photo of in the back of the switchgear , in colour - if you would ; and we'll decipher it .
If a chap cant afford ten Nortons , he can get to glare at a few here anyway . which is some consolation .
Ducati gave up on Blitish eklectrickery , and used BOSH or Jap. stuff .
The Switchblocks relly need the contacts inside inspecting for degeneration .
Claening ( stoneing ) the contact points & seeing the tension is ok & the contacts mate is necessary .
Wiring Colour Code Table
Many British designed vehicles use colour coded cables to assist in identifying the various circuits in use. This is an extract from BS-AU7a 1983 Colour Code for Vehicle Wiring, from the British Standards Institution, 2 Park St., London W1A 2BS.
(Note that these colour codes may not apply directly to older cars. For example, the wipers on cars up to 1980 (at least) are not on a separate fuse circuit, so they are not orange, but green. Check the schematic for your car to be certain. - cak)
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Black All earth connections
Black Brown Tachometer generator to tachometer
Black Blue Tachometer generator to tachometer
Black Red Electric or electronic speedometer to sensor
Black Purple Tempreature switch to warning light
Black Green Relay to radiator fan motor
Black Light green Vacuum brake switch or brake differential pressure valve to warning light and/or buzzer
Black White Brake fluid level warning light to switch and handbrake swith, or radio to speakers
Black yellow Electric speedometer
Black Orange Radiator fan motor to thermal switch
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Blue Lighting switch (head) to dip switch
Blue Brown Headlamp relay to headlamp fuse
Blue Red Dip switch to headlamp dip beam fuse
Fuse to right-hand dip headlamp
Blue Light green Headlamp wiper motor to headlamp wash pump motor
Blue White a) Dip switch to headlamp main beam fuse
b)Headlamp flasher to main beam fuse
c)Dip switch main beam warning light
d)Dip switch to long-range driving light switch
Blue Yellow Long-range driving light switch to lamp
Blue Black Fuse to right-hand main headlamp
Blue Pink Fuse to left-hand dip headlamp
Blue Slate Headlamp main beam fuse to left-hand headlamp or inboard headlamps when independently fused
Blue Orange Fushe to right-hand dip headlamp
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Brown Main battery lead
Brow Blue Control box (compensated voltage control only) to ignition switch and lighting switch (feed)
Brown Red Compression ignition starting aid to switch
Main battery feed to double pole ignition switch
Brown Purple Alternator regulator feed
Brown Green Dynamo 'F' to controlboxl 'F'
Alternator field 'F' to control box 'F'
Brown White Ammeter to control box
Ammeter to main alternator terminal
Brown Yellow Alternator to 'no charge' warning light
Brown Black Alternator battery sensing lead
Brown Slate Starter relay contact to starter solenoid
Brown Orange Fuel shut-off (diesel stop)
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Green Accessories fuesed via ignition switch
Green Brown Switch to reverse lamp
Gree Blue Water temperature gauge to temperature unit
Green Red Direction indicator switch to left-hand flasher lamps
Green Purple Stop lamp switch to stop lamps, or stop lamp switch to lamp failure unit
Green Light green Hazard flasher unit to hazard pilot lamp or lamp failure unit to stop lamp bulbs
Green White Direction indicator switch to right hand flasher lamps
Green Yellow Heater motor to switch single speed (or to 'slow' on tow- or three-speed motor)
Green Black Fuel gauge to fuel tank unit or changeover switch or voltage stabilizer to tank units
Green Pink Fuse to flasher unit
Green Slate a)Heater motor to switch ('fast' on two- or three-speed motor)
b)Coolant level unit to warning light
Green Orange Low fuel level switch to warning light
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Light green Instrument voltage stabilizer to instruments
Light green Brown Flasher switch to flasher unit
Light green Blue a)Flasher switch to left-hand flasher warning light
b)Coolant level sensor to control unit
c)Test switch to coolan level control unit
Light green Red Fuel tank changeover switch to right-hand tank unit or entry and exit door closed switch to door actuator
Light green Purple Flasher unit to flasher warning light
Light green Green Start inhibitor relay to change speed switch; or switch to heater blower motor second speed on three-speed unit
Light green White Low air pressure switch to buzzer and warning light
Light green Yellow Flasher switch to right-hand warning light; or differential lock switch to differential lock warning light
Light green Black Front screen jet switch to screen jet motor
Light green Slate Fuel tank changeover switch to left-hand tank unit; or entry and exit door open switch to door actuator
Light green Orange Rear window wash switch to wash pump; or cab lock-down switch to warning light
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Orange Wiper circuits fused via ignition switch
Orange Blue Switch to front screen wiper motor first speed timer or intermittend unit
Orange Green Switch to front screen wiper motor second speed
Orange Black Switch to front screen wiper motor parking cicuit, timer or intermittent unit
Orange Purple Timer or intermittent unit to motor parking circuit
Orange White Timer or intermittent unit to motor parking circuit
Orange Yellow Switch to headlamp or rear window wiper motor feed, timer or relay coil
Orange Light green Switch to headlamp or rear window wiper motor parking circuit timer or relay coil
Orange Pink Timer or relay to headlamp or rear window wiper motor feed
Orange Slate Timer or relay to headlamp or rear window wiper motor parking circuit
Pink white Ballast terminal to ignition distributor
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Purple Accessories fed direct from battery via fuse
Purple Brown Horn fuse to horn relay when horn is fused separately
Purple Blue Fuse to heated rear window relay or switch and warning light
Purple Red Switches to map light, under bonnet light, glove box light and boot lamp when fed direct from battery fuse
Purple Green Fuse to hazard flasher
Purple Light green Fuse to relay for screen demist
Purple White Interior lights to switch (subsidiary circuit door safety lights to switch)
Purple Yellow Horn to horn relay
Purple Black Horn to horn relay to horn push
Purple Pink Rear heated window to switch or relay
Purple Slate Aerial lift motor to switch up
Purple Orange Aerial lift motor to switch down
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
Red Main feed to all circuits mastered by sidelamp switch
Red Brown Rear fog guard switch to lamps
Red Blue Front fog lamp fuse to fog lamp switch
Red Purple Switches to map light, under bonnet light, glove box light and boot lamp when sidelamp circuit fed
Red Green Bulb failure unit to right-hand-side and rear lamps
Red White a)Sidelamp fuse to right-hand side and rear lamps
b)Sidelamp fuse to panel light rheostat
c)Fuse to panel light switch or rheostat
d)Fuse to fibre optic source
Red Yellow Fog lamp switch to fog lamp or front fog fuse to fog lamps
Red Blakc Left-hand,sidelamp fuse to side and tail lamps and number plate illumination
Red Pink Sidelamp fuse to lighting relay
Red Slate Lamp failure unit to lef-hand side and tail lamps
Red Orange Fusebox to rear fog guard switch
Slate Window lift main lead
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE
White Ignition switch or starter solenoid to ballast resistor
White Brown Oil pressure switch to warning light or gauge, or starter relay to oil pressure switch
White Blue Choke switch to choke solenoid (unfused) and/or choke to switch to warning light, or electronic ignition distributor to drive resistor
White Red Starter switch to starter solenoid or inhibitor switch or starter relay or ignition (start position) to bulb failure unit
White Purple Fuel pump no 1 or right-hand to changeover switch
White Green Fuel pump no 2 or left-hand to changeover switch
White Light green Start switch to starter interlock or oil pressure switch to fuel pump or start inhibitor switch to starter relay or solenoid
White Yellow Ballast resistor to coil or starter solenoid to coil
White Black Ignition coil contact breaker to distributor contact breaker, or distributor side of coil to voltage impulse tachometer
White Pink Ignition switch to radio fuse
White Slate Current tachometer to ignition coil
White Orange Hazard warning lead to switch
Yellow a)Overdrive
b)Petrol injection
http://www.dimebank.com/LucasColours.html
:x Er . . .
SEPERATEING to CHARGE / IGNITION / LIGHTING / & auxillaries gets it separate and comprehendable .
But I think we're degressing . To Fire it Up , You NEED the IGNITION - stuff all there - Coils to Points , and a Live Lead from the local
neuclear power station , or a battery . :wink:
Trailer Wie ( 5 and 7 core ) is often useable for the switchblocks , butll be the modern Euro Colour Code . :x Buts Still CODED ,
so isn't insurmountable . But if thyre all good up there , leave as be .
Most of the components like the H Lamp Switch & Ign Sw are common to 60s pommy cars ( junk yard stuff ) . Good place to purloin a
great pile of correctly colour coded wire & connectors , idiot lights & solenoids too .
Thought the Ign sw to pisspotical to persevere with , so tossed & fitted NEW & 10 3 Posn lock / switch . Those cheap ones are nasty - as fitted .
Looked at like a aircraft or ralley Car , you through in good main core wires , and follow through , one system at a time . When you need the Full Loom .
Were replacements ( original / ) for about $ 150 a while back . MkIIIs are NVT Era , common to T 160 ( electric start ) thus extra wires .
Some have the Cop wires included ( supurflous )
Any 69 to 75 loom should suit . a Bonneville one would even work , if the lengths match . The diagram may be more comprehendable .
I get the colour pencils out on the nasty black & white ones , for main wires .
Were ' standard ' clips & fittings ( wire end fittings ) freely available from pommy car suppliers ( Trade Supplyers )
The hideous Brass Bullets are good for gougeing 1/8 diameter trenches in the fingers - pulling the conectors when stuck .
ALL Spade Connections need cleaning & tweaking with plyers to get correct fit if ancient and osmosified & oxidiesed .
If its all bright and brassey in the back of the handlebar switchblocks they may be ok as is - with a good dose of C.R.C. etc .
Got a soldering iron ?? its a bit of a bind salveageing some fittings , but knocking up new points leads , and throwing on
a few wires will have it FIRED UP .
We wont get onto the Contact Breaker / auto advance ASSEMBLY . Yet . Same Proceedure . Strip Clean , square up . lube and set .
Some people fit solid state fit & forget ign triggers , for some reason . If you like working on steam trains you might enjoy setting up
the standard ignition .
Whatever , it wants ZERO innacuacies to blow off those Hondas . & Kawasakis's
:mrgreen: One Thing at a Time .You don't need the key assy & lights to GO for a spin . A twisted join in Ign. Main will serve as a circuit break , as needs must .
Don't Even Need the Charge set up . Yet .
The 73 Mk 5 is pretty sorted ex factory , as theyed ditched the trashier tripe by then , so don't get despondent or discouraged .
That Milage its pretty much a once in a lifetime opportunity for us non millionaires . Particularly with a Know History .
Soo the MAIN THING is not to wreck anything . Diligant patience and perseverance will have it UNAPROACHABLE .
They were trying to make a expensive to produce machine at a affordable price , So you get the Core Unit & theres room to improve a few details . Like Fit 32 mm Dellorto Pumpers , if you hate mikunis or cant find Mk II AMALS . :twisted:
Blueprinted , or Electronic Ignition - and itll Haul the Coal .
Chuck us a photo of in the back of the switchgear , in colour - if you would ; and we'll decipher it .
If a chap cant afford ten Nortons , he can get to glare at a few here anyway . which is some consolation .
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2014
- Messages
- 362
As it was written before, checking wire continuity is not good enough. You need to be checking for the right voltage at various points in the circuit UNDER LOAD.
The suggestion to start from the contact key selector is an excellent one. As you have nothing there, just run a new wire from the battery neg to it and follow the juice...
IF juice is present and goes to the ignition, it is pretty straightforward to check every component of said ignition...
Good luck...
The suggestion to start from the contact key selector is an excellent one. As you have nothing there, just run a new wire from the battery neg to it and follow the juice...
IF juice is present and goes to the ignition, it is pretty straightforward to check every component of said ignition...
Good luck...
I'm trying to find the obvious breaks with my meter and once I get some voltage somewhere I can check further.
Here is what the connector looked like.
I'm using wire nuts(quit laughing)to temporarily connect the wires till I find some juice.
Here is the type of switch I have.
In this picture the two alligator clips tied with red wire connect the minus battery terminal to the brown/green wire that would have the fuse holder on it, I am bypassing it. The voltage shows 0 when I put the meter leads from the positive battery terminal to the brown/green wire that hooks to the switch(with the switch removed).
When I put the meter lead on the positive terminal of the battery I get 13+ volts at the switch wire, isn't this backwards?
Here is what the connector looked like.
I'm using wire nuts(quit laughing)to temporarily connect the wires till I find some juice.
Here is the type of switch I have.
In this picture the two alligator clips tied with red wire connect the minus battery terminal to the brown/green wire that would have the fuse holder on it, I am bypassing it. The voltage shows 0 when I put the meter leads from the positive battery terminal to the brown/green wire that hooks to the switch(with the switch removed).
When I put the meter lead on the positive terminal of the battery I get 13+ volts at the switch wire, isn't this backwards?
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