Troubles with 3AW assimilator and RITA

On a Mk2, I replaced the alternator/rectifier/zener with a Sparx 2-phase and a Podtronics. Also fitted a RITA. Hooked the 3AW assimilator AL spade up to one of the leads of the alternator.

After solving an internal short in the RITA, initially all looked fine. The plugs spark nicely when the ignition is switched off. Untill at one stage, I somehow smelled something funny, and found the 3AW housing to be quite hot. This all with the ignition switched off!

Opened up the 3AW, looked OK. Hooked up an ammeter in the battery lead.
When I switch on, all normal, ignition light comes up, draws 0.15 Amps for the light and 2,6 Amps for the RITA.
The contact arm in the 3AW stays as it is.
However, after switching a couple of times, ON for say 15 secs, OFF for say 15 secs, all of a sudden after a switch to OFF, I see the contact of the 3AW move over almost instantaneously, the ammeter shows 0.53 Amps than, so in OFF!
When switching to ON, the contact doesn't move, the ignition light doesn't come on.
In OFF, only removing the lead from the AL spade makes the contact arm in the 3AW move back again.

This can be repeated again and again.
The phenomenon only happens with the RITA as load, not with the lights.

It seems somehow when switching off, the 3AW is seeing a voltage as if the engine was running and the alternator providing the required voltage to make the 3AW switch and turn the ignition light off.
And it holds, as if getting power from the battery through the podtronic?

Can someone shed a light on this?

It sounds as though the 3AW assimilator is working correctly. They do indeed warm up when there is current flowing through them.

Assuming everything is wired up correctly,and current is flowing through the assimilator while the ignition switch is off - that would indicate that the voltage regulator is faulty, because it is allowing battery current to reverse flow back through the regulator and finally to the assimilator.

It is possible that a diode may have shorted within the voltage regulator allowing current to reverse flow through the regulator.

Verify the Podontic is well frame grounded

FWIW I assume the 3AW assimilator is a N/C contacter (normally closed). When sufficient current from the stator is applied the contact opens and de-energizes light. When running down the road, the unit is being always energized, constantly drawing current and holding the contacts open to keep the light off. What a waste.

Drawing current to keep a light off. Gotta love it.

I also believe (know) the Pods unit requires no grounding. See item 6 in the instructions.
http://www.oldbritts.com/17_17106.html

Just make sure the red and black wires go to the battery terminals.