- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
For want of a nail, err a new rod bolt Trixie's been silent since spring '08. So far about $1800 in parts or labor. I was coasting 50-ish looking for pasture gate to get camouflaged photo in field of yellow flowers. Prior event d/t Aluminum gasket rubbing slotted pistons unknown to silly me not opening a nice runner.
Did spring cleaning but for damn mice and pack rats reproducing or arriving more than I can re-new poison or get with .45 ACP shot shells.
Pile of everything to assess Combat engine out in one place.
First tantrum induced on finding water puddles inside the 'sealed' Tupperware and rusting fasteners and items )+_U_{U&()*(^)*&(^&)^$%E@#$(&)*_)(_!!!!&&**
Better than rodent urine I had to finally tell myself to settle down.
JBWeld sealed cases using only disc magnet behind for round punch out and rectangular magnets and some clay dam back up for the long oil drain crack.
Invited Wesley over so someone could hear my tantrums on hang ups and a 2nd mind and pair of hands of course. Ok plus hearing his '71 that seized a year ago.
Knocked off the bad journal TS cheek and sucked off its superblend inner. Two wood chisels to start then blade puller to finish. Propane heat helped too. Used heat gun and big socket to drift on new -0.010" under cheek w/o bother via 3 lb sledge Wes delicately swung while I held the hot parts in gloves.
Got the sludge out of DS, mostly all lifted out like wet dough by knife.
Another tantrum at this point, the nuts ordered by the part number and quantity,
Did Not work. All the nuts would run on the 4 bolts but only one nut would screw onto the 2 studs. I had to dig through old parts to find some longer and shorter nuts to get studs nipped up with red loctite all around. Took two dude to hold the crank in vice on nip up but we didn't break off an end wrench jaw this time.
Used old rod nuts to clamp on to almost full torque the two different sized shells to fit, to find the .010" under side was bound up rather stiff. Worked it oiled for witness marks then I took Wes's razor knife and lightly even scraped over the polish areas, which were where Wes predicted in the seam area. One side had 1/2" of polish the other a pencil line. 3 scrapes improved but 5 on 1/2" area and 3 or thin area got it just right > fall right over with mild hint of smooth drag.
Factory side just had the thin line polish mark, so 2 scrapes per shell got er done.
Put on the new nuts and I measured for ~.0065" stretch forgoing my as new T-wrench. Its the nut threads that get lazy not the bolts, ha- hardly ever.
When done just right there are no new polish marks or removal of the knife edge imperfections, just oil layer support-drag. Took us 4 fittings on TS two on DS.
I'll get the crank into cases this evening with Hylomar-thread, then fart around bike and shed prior to tomorrow Labor day piston, barrel, head and cam, on outward assembly and dialing in. Then hard part getting engine in deer distorted frame.
Did spring cleaning but for damn mice and pack rats reproducing or arriving more than I can re-new poison or get with .45 ACP shot shells.
Pile of everything to assess Combat engine out in one place.
First tantrum induced on finding water puddles inside the 'sealed' Tupperware and rusting fasteners and items )+_U_{U&()*(^)*&(^&)^$%E@#$(&)*_)(_!!!!&&**
Better than rodent urine I had to finally tell myself to settle down.
JBWeld sealed cases using only disc magnet behind for round punch out and rectangular magnets and some clay dam back up for the long oil drain crack.
Invited Wesley over so someone could hear my tantrums on hang ups and a 2nd mind and pair of hands of course. Ok plus hearing his '71 that seized a year ago.
Knocked off the bad journal TS cheek and sucked off its superblend inner. Two wood chisels to start then blade puller to finish. Propane heat helped too. Used heat gun and big socket to drift on new -0.010" under cheek w/o bother via 3 lb sledge Wes delicately swung while I held the hot parts in gloves.
Got the sludge out of DS, mostly all lifted out like wet dough by knife.
Another tantrum at this point, the nuts ordered by the part number and quantity,
Did Not work. All the nuts would run on the 4 bolts but only one nut would screw onto the 2 studs. I had to dig through old parts to find some longer and shorter nuts to get studs nipped up with red loctite all around. Took two dude to hold the crank in vice on nip up but we didn't break off an end wrench jaw this time.
Used old rod nuts to clamp on to almost full torque the two different sized shells to fit, to find the .010" under side was bound up rather stiff. Worked it oiled for witness marks then I took Wes's razor knife and lightly even scraped over the polish areas, which were where Wes predicted in the seam area. One side had 1/2" of polish the other a pencil line. 3 scrapes improved but 5 on 1/2" area and 3 or thin area got it just right > fall right over with mild hint of smooth drag.
Factory side just had the thin line polish mark, so 2 scrapes per shell got er done.
Put on the new nuts and I measured for ~.0065" stretch forgoing my as new T-wrench. Its the nut threads that get lazy not the bolts, ha- hardly ever.
When done just right there are no new polish marks or removal of the knife edge imperfections, just oil layer support-drag. Took us 4 fittings on TS two on DS.
I'll get the crank into cases this evening with Hylomar-thread, then fart around bike and shed prior to tomorrow Labor day piston, barrel, head and cam, on outward assembly and dialing in. Then hard part getting engine in deer distorted frame.
