TRITON, at last...

Carbonfibre said:
Crimped connectors are also used by Boyer...........so only the best will do for Tri-Spark it seems............lol
Click to expand...

Throw them away and fit some proper connectors, crimp connectors like those are not designed for and have no place on a bike.

Webby
 
I was trained in the Navy 35 years ago to perform proper crimps and that's all I've been using ever since. EXCEPT in cases of certain solder-fit connections that lend themselves to the task. I have yet to have a crimp connector fail on a bike that I built or repaired.

britbike220 said:
I hope it isn't commando75's slightly used trispark.
Click to expand...

Ummmmm... why? What was wrong with it?
 
Hi GPZ,
You're right, there's nothing wrong with correctly crimped connections. In fact in many cases they are stronger than soldered connections, where with repeated vibration the wire can break.
The problem with those automotive crimps is the insulation, they don't protect the wire from moisture, you're far better off buying connectors with a separate insulator and then crimping them using the correct tool.

Webby
 
grandpaul said:
I was trained in the Navy 35 years ago to perform proper crimps and that's all I've been using ever since. EXCEPT in cases of certain solder-fit connections that lend themselves to the task. I have yet to have a crimp connector fail on a bike that I built or repaired.
t?
Click to expand...

Even you couldn't make those things in the picture safe on my shaky old bike. You could clamp them under the weight of mountains for millions of years and the wire would still shake loose and the bullet would get loose in the socket.
 
After 13 years of installing crimp style connectors on various airplanes, properly done with the correct tool, the wire will break before the crimp fails. The problem is that most people use the wrong tool for the crimp. And that is where the problem is.
 
You wire aeroplanes to this standard?


TRITON, at last...
 
The only aircraft I ever wired anything to was an ultralight, and I used proper crimpers & connectors.

As far as I know, it's still working fine.
 
bwolfie said:
After 13 years of installing crimp style connectors on various airplanes, properly done with the correct tool, the wire will break before the crimp fails. The problem is that most people use the wrong tool for the crimp. And that is where the problem is.
Click to expand...

There is no doubt that crimped connectors done properly are likely to work perfectly well. However those used by Tri-Spark are not properly done, and are certainly something thats going to cause problems.

In terms of crimping connectors properly the main issue is the cost of a proper crimping tool...........here in the UK they are pretty expensive (£60+), so most people use a cheap tool that produces Tri-Spark type results.

Its much cheaper for anyone not doing enough wiring work to merit costly tools, to simply solder the connections, which will result in a far better job than crimps with cheap tooling, with no need to buy costly tools which may only be used once.
 
I went out and bought the correct crimping pliers from vehicle wiring products, they were not cheap, but then how do you put a price on being broken down at the side of the road?

Webby
 
No, I followed that thread along with everyone else (may have chimed in at least once).

From everything I've heard first-hand about TriSpark results (all good), I figured I'd never BUY one (I'm too cheap), but I'd trade for one if an opportunity came up to get one at a better value.

That opportunity came up.

Truth be told, it's probably NOT going on the TriTon. I want it for the Blue Dreer prototype bike (to coexist nicely with the e-start); the Sparx that's on that bike will go on the TriTon.
 
It was meant as light humor and will probably work great and a good deal as long as you didn't pay the outrageous full price. :)
 
I seem to have forgotten to update this project over here.

After the sad passing of my vintage roadracing mentor and Britbike friend, Malcolm "BritBodger" Dixon, I was asked by his next-of-kin to assist in liquidating his estate; we did our best to sell a house full of nearly 50 years of Britbike riding, collecting and racing, at fire-sale prices. Several thousand dollars in proceeds were donated to the BMOA Houston, and AHRMA, Malcolm's two favorite associations.

Malcolm's nephew, Paul, insisted on letting me keep a few bins of spares that remained after the sale; among the cool stuff in the bins, that will go on the TriTon, were:

- matched pair of new Amal MkII carbs with K&N filters
- slightly rusty but not dented 2-into-1 header
- Tarrozzi rearset footpegs (one broken, one cracked, but easily welded up)
- very slightly used M.A.P. alloy big-bore cylinder with lightweight pistons (no rings, but easy enough to match)
- used dual lead ignition coil
- used Lockhart oil cooler setup
- various crankcase & rockerbox vent fittings
- set of slightly used lightweight valve spring collets
- set of slightly used clutch plates (M.A.P., I think)
- M.A.P. alloy clutch pressure plate
- various chunks of aluminum plate stock that I can use to fabricate brackets from

There was so much stuff I could have used, heaps of stuff I'd love to have, and some pretty fancy go-fast racing parts; but my goal was to get as much of it out to the membership as possible, so my gleanings were from the leftovers! I really looked long and hard at several partitioned drawers full of whitworth hardware that I could really use right about now; one guy got the whole lot for like $20.

So, I will formulate some sort of tribute to Malcolm on the bike when it's done. I hope to do him justice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top