Tricks on getting the right torque on head nuts

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I'm getting ready to put my head on my 74 Commando and was wondering if any one had any tips on getting the torque right on the rear and front head nuts.

Thanks,
Guy
 
The front bottom "nuts" (long funky things) have a 7/16" hex and need 30 ft-lbs like the other 3/8" studs and bolts. They're a biatch to tighten. I finally got an extension for my torque wrench that made it a lot easier. It's just a 7/16 box wrench with a 3/8 square drive and 2 inches between centers. You need to calculate the difference in wrench reading with the extension (there are online calculators for that). I have not found an equivalent tool for the 1/4 Whit #2 bolt - some day I'll make one. Meanwhile, I yank it with a calibrated elbow.
 
Hook up the torque wrench to the extension at a 90 degree angle and no re-calculation is needed, same torque value can be used. To use an angle also makes it easier to access the nuts.

/Per
 
maylar said:
The front bottom "nuts" (long funky things) have a 7/16" hex and need 30 ft-lbs like the other 3/8" studs and bolts. They're a biatch to tighten. I finally got an extension for my torque wrench that made it a lot easier. It's just a 7/16 box wrench with a 3/8 square drive and 2 inches between centers. You need to calculate the difference in wrench reading with the extension (there are online calculators for that). I have not found an equivalent tool for the 1/4 Whit #2 bolt - some day I'll make one. Meanwhile, I yank it with a calibrated elbow.

A calibrated elbow is probably more than enough, but a fish scale or it's modern electronic equivalent could be used to pull on the wrench. With calculations that could be as good as a torque wrench.

Jean
 
I don't know about that......... MY fish scale is already calibrated to support my lies 8)
 
Measure the rotation of a bolt/nut that you can access with a torque wrench and then use this information to tighten the bolt that cannot be accessed with a torque wrench.
 
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