Tri-spark ground
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marshg246
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However you accomplish it, it needs a good engine ground which is why the red wire is short and goes under the top mounting screw by design.
maylar
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Battery post is OK, but not necessary if your engine ground is solid. Mine grounds to the engine case through one of the points cover pillars, as is what the design intended. During strobe timing however, I jumper the ground wire to the wiring harness ground so that I can loosen the pillars without risking losing the ground connection.
marshg246
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I run that to the same place as the harness red wires connect to the head. Originally, that was the head steady, but I put them under the Allen on the timing side that holds the head steady. That way I'm positive that the harness and the coils have a solid engine ground.
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this is definitely OVERKILL, but just installed a tri-spark on a BSA spitfire project - ran a separate engine ground directly back to the battery. the tri-spark module - the normal tri-spark ground AS WELL AS a separate, redundant, ground directly to the battery. on my norton, where the harness ground attaches to the head steady, a ran a secondary ground jumper to the cylinder head.
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"this is definitely OVERKILL,"
Nah... I think it's entirely proper; there is no such thing as a ground that is "too good!"
Nah... I think it's entirely proper; there is no such thing as a ground that is "too good!"
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