Torque Wrenches

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RoadScholar

RoadScholar

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I started out with beam types, went to clickers and now have an electronic torque wrench, which I have lost trust in and 'am not interested in paying for a calibration study. I did have my clickers calibrated (Sears brand) after many years of use; the cal lab is close by. I was amazed at how accurate they were; I wanted them to be "on the money" for a Mk III engine I was going through.

The electronic wrench I have is branded as an Eastwood, it wasn't the least expensive, but considerably less than what's out there, and I did a lot of digging before placing the order.

Anyway, I could use any recommendations you members may care to share about what type and what brand you use and trust. This time I will purchase based on reputation and leave cost out of the equation.

Many thanks.
 
I have 3 Snapon ratchet head clicker torque wrenches 1/4, 3/8,1/2 drive I bought the 3/8 in 79 it still tests good. I always back the the adjuster off to a minimal load after use and keep them in there boxes they were quite an investment but worth every penny.
 
I would guess “Snap-on” would be near top of list ... I have a 3/8 & 1/2 drive Canadian Tire maximum brand clicker type ,would guess they at bottom of list, however , I do follow instructions as above , no load storage in boxes etc. , plus I do get consistent torque on each fastener which is important and have never had any issues with damage/loose fasteners caused by these wrenches , they are cheap but well looked after and much better than guessing ....
 
I have Warren & Brown, Snap On (USA) and Facom (France)
They all have their merits but the Facom are a little better as far as visual setting not having shiny surfaces.
The Facom ergonomics are nicer to use but all perform the same.

I had looked at Snap On electronics but did not see the point given the expense, maybe they have a lit window so you can torque in the dark.

Torque Wrenches


On the LNG jobs I go to, the UK made Norbar brand seems to be very popular (hand torque) and are also nice to use along with being reliable but are calibrated on a regular basis.
Even a home use tool can use that (calibration) at some point in its life.
 
I have a 3/8 Teng Tools and 1/2 Sykes Pickavant. The SP is definatly better quality, though I dont like having to flip the socket round to the other side to reverse the direction. The TT is good too, way better than the old Craftsman beam type I used to have.
Torque Wrenches
 
by no means a torque wrench expert, but FWIW, I recently bought a 1/4" drive, inch-pound Capri (clicker) torque wrench specifically for special purpose applications. it came with a calibration certificate, including lab test results. don't know much about capri tools, but it seems to be decent quality. I seem to recall paying about $90 (USD).

Torque Wrenches
 
Craftsman...after 22 years it gave it up and they gave me a new one...no charge.
 
I have 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" Snap-Ons which I use extensively but I do most of my Norton work in the spirit of the original factory method; "That seems tight enough"! :)

FWIW, and more seriously, remember that proper torque specs include a statement that they are either based on clean, dry threads or clean, lubricated threads. Additionally, if lubricated, the type of lubricant should be specified. Years ago, 30 wt motor oil was often listed as the lube.

The actual stretching of the fastener is quite different between dry and lubed threads and it is possible to fracture or deform a fastener if lube is used when the spec is for dry. The difference is around 40%. So basically if the spec is, say, 50 ft lb dry and you lube it and tighten to an indicated 50lb ft, the fastener is actually stretched as if tightened to around 70 ft lbs. OUCH!
 
MexicoMike said:
I have 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" Snap-Ons which I use extensively but I do most of my Norton work in the spirit of the original factory method; "That seems tight enough"! :)

FWIW, and more seriously, remember that proper torque specs include a statement that they are either based on clean, dry threads or clean, lubricated threads. Additionally, if lubricated, the type of lubricant should be specified. Years ago, 30 wt motor oil was often listed as the lube.

The actual stretching of the fastener is quite different between dry and lubed threads and it is possible to fracture or deform a fastener if lube is used when the spec is for dry. The difference is around 40%. So basically if the spec is, say, 50 ft lb dry and you lube it and tighten to an indicated 50lb ft, the fastener is actually stretched as if tightened to around 70 ft lbs. OUCH!
Click to expand...

Does anti seize qualify as lube? I used some on the stainless head bolts on my 850 last time and still used the factory torque spec.
 
joe czech said:
by no means a torque wrench expert, but FWIW, I recently bought a 1/4" drive, inch-pound Capri (clicker) torque wrench specifically for special purpose applications. it came with a calibration certificate, including lab test results. don't know much about capri tools, but it seems to be decent quality. I seem to recall paying about $90 (USD).
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. I've been looking to replace my 40 yr old beam type 3/8 and 1/2 inch with clickers. Are they marked with both ft-lbs and NM?
 
maylar said:
Thanks for that. I've been looking to replace my 40 yr old beam type 3/8 and 1/2 inch with clickers. Are they marked with both ft-lbs and NM?
Click to expand...
yes - inch or foot pounds (depending on size) and Nm. BTW, came with a nice case. if considering capri, price shop including shipping - I found best pricing on fleabay - ;)
 
Thanks for the reply's. I've had very trustworthy service from my Sears clickers, and had always unloaded them after use. I also heard that they are now being made in China and don't feel that good about the quality and I'm a bit xenophobic, in the mildest sense. Snap-on is probably the gold standard, I just can't justify the outrageous prices they attach to their products, but I may cave on one of their torque wrenches. I do have a 1/4" drive Snap-on inch pound clicker, which I like for torquing 1/4" or 6mm fasteners, but it was a gift.

I'm favoring the electronic variety because they alert you when you are near the set torque value with both visual and auditory alerts, can retain additional settings, which are easy to switch to and don't need to be unloaded for storage.

The main use for me is rod bolts whether they have a set spec or use the stretch method, a good torque wrench will insure consistency, and when using the stretch method will usually get me to the last thousandth of stretch where the torques may have to differ. For just about any other fastener, or fastening set I rely on the "feel" method, with the exception of head bolts and the clutch hub retaining nut. In all cases I hand fit the fasteners prior to final assembly to insure that they have equal feel; if not I use a drill driven .38/.357 or a .45 brass gun cleaning brush, which I have many of for the intended purpose.

Best
 
maylar said:
Does anti seize qualify as lube? I used some on the stainless head bolts on my 850 last time and still used the factory torque spec.
Click to expand...
Yes, it's a "lube" as is thread locker as far as the tightening is concerned. I have no idea of the relative difference of the various products. I suspect there are engineering tables/papers around on the internet that list various 'lubes' and their effect vs dry.

Years ago the running gag about "torque specs" is that they came to be when Ford wanted to publish them for the first time. They (allegedly) had one of their experienced engine builders put together an engine using his regular tools, just as he would normally. Ford boffins developed a way to measure the torque he used to tighten each fitting on the engine and then published those figures as "the" torque specs for the engine.

Don't know if it's really true but makes a good story! Were there any torque wrenches in Wolverhampton? ;)
 
MexicoMike said:
Were there any torque wrenches in Wolverhampton? ;)
Click to expand...

Maybe more importantly, did they specify dry or lubed? I can't say that I've ever seen a reference to it in the manual. I've always assumed it was lubed but maybe that's why so many studs get pulled out of these heads? Yikes!
 
I don’t have room on shed shelves for all the different lubes called for greasing threads on Ducati fasteners in Duc SM under torque table heading ... I have defaulted to using a general purpose grease for all those that lube is called for .... several pages worth of getting it all straight .... so far nothing has fallen off or failed ....jeesh !
 
YES, I have had several Ducati's and the shop manuals listed various grease for different fasteners - pretty much the opposite of no having a manual with no mention of dry or lubed! :)

All the official service manuals I own (from the manufacturer) for auto/truck/marine gas/diesel engines specify dry or lubed and, in some cases like Ducati, several lubes that frankly, nobody uses! ;)

IMO, the biggest issue that commonly comes up is steel bolts into aluminum. If spec is dry and they are lubed, there is a good chance of stripping the threads. In many applications, the consistent tightening and proper pattern of tightening the fasteners - is more important than knowing "THE" precise torque setting.
 
Speaking about Ducatis. The last time I got testosterone poisoned I purchased a Hyper Motard 1100, The torque spec on the factory CD (in English too) describes setting head fastener torque at with oiled threads that will get some number of hours to drip down, then to torque the nuts at some number of N/m while turning the nut at 300 RPM. I'm pretty sure the factory uses a multi headed pneumatic or hydraulic driven tool to torque all the head fasteners at the same time..

Makes sense to think ahead when I purchase the next (and last) 3/8" drive electronic torque wrench to get one with an integrated tachometer....

Best
 
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