Tickover

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I have to agree with ludwig, below 1000 the engine doesn't sound right and I try not to let it go there.

Dave
69S
 
Crikey . :roll: Mk 2 Concentrics and a 36 degree advance unit , the tick over at 500 rpm was so even itd do it all day .
Literally go up and boil up a coffee , Hot and drink it .While it never missed a beat . V quite at those revs.For straight
thru pipes . :lol: :wink:
Powerdoc , In the Day , there were a few varieations . Id had two , one with the slider 5/8 in . , 16 m.m. long .in steel .
chromed case , little knurles on the ends with a tulip shape at the one cable in end . Was hands down smoother than the other shorter metal one .Pays to check the length of action , so theres enough cable draw to open fully .Eye out at swap meets ?
Later went to Alloy Twin Cable trottle unit , a dab of silicone would keep ferrules home , though never lost any .
Youd pick through the bag of bits at the store and keep an eye out for stuff .

' The renouned ' Megura ' 1/4 turn throttle was reputed to be good .Like the brake light switch in a front cable , the adjusters
will F things up , if on a bend , so makeing cables all the curves are open & smooth.With in line adjusters on the straight run
under the front of the fuel tank .

Start up Id hold 1400 rpm for a little , if cold .( or Freezing :lol: ) to circulate oil . Idle low temperature needs to be ok .
Pre unit with magneto , idle was via twist grip .As slides set to close fully . on the Amal Monoblocks .Smooth clean transition
 
Ludwig I'm with you on the fast Idle, It just seems to make life easier.
aceaceca, I have often considered what you have done. I came to the conclusion after fitting
gaskets and o rings to my carbs a while back, that all was good for a while, then it seemed to go back to
variable Idle. My idea was to fit longer screws to the Idle and Mixture, either with a retainer spring like a Mikuni,
or extra long with a locknut, like older Amals, because I think perhaps the screws turn with vibration. ??
How do you hold yours tight, just the o rings. ?
Any way mine are on their last chance now, any playing around and they're off, banished to the cupboard.
AC.
 
You are deluding yourself about needle screws vibrating out of tune. Don't we all wish it were so easy and issue. Sounds like the rubber cushion helped till carb bores beat out slacker.
 
I wouldn't be so sure Hob.
Consider this, I think we all agree that Amals were / are made of suspect material.
Now the slide goes up and down tapping on the Idle screw each time it goes to the bottom.
If the slides and bodies wear easily, then one would only assume that the threads in the body for the
Idle screws will wear too. Yes ?. So what keeps them tight, what stops them turning a smidgeon, which is
all it takes to alter the Idle speed by 200 revs, one little O ring,?
It's not as though Nortons don't vibrate, especially without rubber mouted carbs.
Convince me.
 
It just makes sense to be able to make adjustments on the fly on either the air screw or throttle stop. I carry a little screwdriver in the empty mirror hole on the handbrake for the air screw. However, with bad eyes and a motor doing the wongy dongy it is nearly impossible to make adjustments. Besides the fact I am not wearing my readers when riding. I use a sanded down o ring as the seal/locker on the throttle stop. I will look for the site where I saw the finger adjustable screws. Like I said, I am sure I saw them at one time
 
I've never heard of these screws wondering on their but am sure its entirely possible. Get the screws with the thumb wheels on them and pretend like I do that I'm a WWI flight mechanic tending the tune while in flight. I went through this phase for a few months on Trixie Combat. But last 6 wks, after anodized slides, havn't had diddle them at all, Texas trip and back and seem to have gotten the nack of 1 kick starts hot w/o a tickle or opening throttle. Cold must tickle wet. Do check the balance tube on duals now and then.
 
Fullauto said:
As much as I dislike Anals...oops, I mean Amals, the problem is with the Boyer. From one stoplight to another you might have 800rpm or you might have 1200 rpm idle. Pot luck. My Tri-Spark fixed it. Consistent idle every time.
Click to expand...

Same for me.
 
This is what you need Aceacea. Available here http://mcctriumph.com/VelocityStack.aspx
Pic is compared to stock.I have them,they work a treat.
Tickover
 
pvisseriii said:
I also think the pressed in pilot jets are troublesome. If you rework your amals, consider drilling them out and using the screw in type. Piece of cake to do. You can then fine tune the pilot circuit to suit.
Click to expand...

Screw-in jets? Source please.

"Carry on and dread nought"
 
kartiste said:
pvisseriii said:
I also think the pressed in pilot jets are troublesome. If you rework your amals, consider drilling them out and using the screw in type. Piece of cake to do. You can then fine tune the pilot circuit to suit.
Click to expand...

Screw-in jets? Source please.

"Carry on and dread nought"
Click to expand...
124/026-? ? equals what ever size you want from 15 to 200. $3.10 USD each I might suggest ordering 25's, 30's and 35's. If you have a particularly rich idle, a 22 or 20 is available also. I know, I know, it's sort of far off but they are good to do business with and are reasonable with shipping. I am sure others offer these, but this is the most obvious and i trust I will get what i order.
http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/ProductCatego ... d=30&C=151

Also order a couple adjuster screws to cut off and blank the old pilot jet hole that you drill out using an 1/8 drill then drill and tap to 10-32.
OR....order these and use the old one to cut up. http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?id=955. Don't forget a fresh set of o-rings.

You do realize that these screw into the bottom of the body and reside in the float bowl, don't you?
 
pvisseriii said:
kartiste said:
pvisseriii said:
You do realize that these screw into the bottom of the body and reside in the float bowl, don't you?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Actually, I did misapprehend. My heart leapt with joy thinking momentarily there was an (easily) adjustable-height float needle valve seat replacement. Obviously not a pilot jet. But it would reside in the float bowl. So back to thinking about $60 for a pair of stay-up floats...

"Carry on and dread nought"
 
I am using Boyer electronic ignition bought in the 1980s--is this an analog or digital system?

Tom
 
ctsbc said:
I am using Boyer electronic ignition bought in the 1980s--is this an analog or digital system?
Click to expand...

There are three main types of Boyer Bransden electronic ignitions

http://www.boyerbransden.com/products.html
The Analog/ue Micro MkIII (now MkIV) which usually has a black box.
Micro Digital (usually red box)
Micro Power (also digital, usually blue box and micro coils)
 
Fullauto said:
As much as I dislike Anals...oops, I mean Amals, the problem is with the Boyer. From one stoplight to another you might have 800rpm or you might have 1200 rpm idle. Pot luck. My Tri-Spark fixed it. Consistent idle every time.
Click to expand...


Ditto that, the Tri-Spark is worth the extra money.
I won't have a Boyer - for selling a bogus advance curve to Norton owners for decades.

With Jim Schmidt's carbs I can get the idle down below 1000 when warm but then I worry about that low tickover, isn't the cam more important? I'm afraid of wearing out the cam due to loss of the oil film brought on by the slower speed of the cam/follower wipe.
 
rpatton said:
GRM 450 said:
Flo, I have Pazon and 1 Mikuni. When it's warm it idles well and doesn't stall but when it's cold I have to keep the revs up for a minute till it warms up. From what I've read here some can just kick and walk away from cold and the bike idles, or that's the impression I got from reading other posts. Mine won't do that. Graeme
Click to expand...

My bike did exactly what you're talking about. I would start it on the choke then need to turn it off almost immediately, then keep the idle up with the twist grip or the idle screw for a minute or two or it would die. My problem was the fuel level was too high and I was trying to compensate with a small pilot. When that was fixed the starting procedure is choke for 15-20 seconds then off. The idle comes down to about normal and stays there.

I think what was going on is the air screw in the pilot circuit does more than just trim the leaness or richness if the mixture. The pilot jet forms a little mixing chamber in the carb so that the fuel comes out the holes in the bottom of the throat of the carb is already atomized. If the pilot jet is submerged by too high a fuel level then there isn't much chance for the air screw to add enough air so there isn't much in the way of atomization. What fuel that comes out the little holes is basically a thin stream. When the engine is warm enough it can probably deal with it. When it's cold, it can't so you need to keep the throttle raised till it warms up. I think the Mikuni 2 into 1 manifold isn't very good, which only makes things worse. That manifold probably does everything that can possibly be done to make a fuel charge fall out of suspension. It's time for me to retire the 2 into 1. It just a matter of choosing the carbs.
Click to expand...

Hello Bob,
Mine starts on full choke then I turn the choke off as soon as it starts then hold the throttle for a minute till the head and cylinder are warm before it will idle.
I bought the single Mikuni assembly from Rocky Point in the US, blended the manifold to the head, and the carb to the manifold. And cleaned up some of the manifold internals (just a little as there isn't much I could do to get better flow) , it came with aircleaner etc. Once it's warm it is very reliable and idles about 1000 rpm. I know this setup isnt the best for performance, but it suits for touring.
what height did you set your float?
Graeme
 
Hi Graeme,

My float is set at around 25-26mm measured from the gasket surface, 35 pilot. My setting would be 1-2mm lower than spec but the floats are over 10 years old and probably have taken on some gas. For all I know the actual fuel level may be about stock. The lower fuel level might put out better atomized fuel so that it'll help it run till it warms up. I'm guessing, but I do know it transformed the way the engine responded at under 1/4 throttle. If you caught Jim's post on the Mikuni thread he mentioned that lowering the floats slightly below the measured spec might not be a bad idea due to the amount of shaking going on. I was looking at my carb once while it was idling and it seemed that the idea of a specific fuel level would have to be a pretty abstract concept considering the carb looked like a martini shaker.

comnoz said:
Setting the float level to specs only works with a brand new float. As the float gets older it gets heavier-especially with ethanol fuels. With a used float you will have to set it a couple MM lower.
Sometimes it is necessary even with a new float to get it to run well. Floats don't control the fuel very well when they are shaking so setting them lower is common on a Norton. Jim
Click to expand...
 
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