Tanks from 'Glass from the past'?

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Does anyone have experience with tanks from 'Glass from the past', specifically success or failure regarding stability with modern gas? I'd be especially interested to hear from anyone in California.
These seem attractive as reliable options for replacement Fastback tanks are very hard to find.
Thanks,
Puffer_Nutter

70 Fastback
64 Trophy
 
Simple..... insist on knowing the exact resin brand and formulation used for molding the tanks. Check the engineering application sheet for suitability.
I am on the cusp of making tanks (for my own use) that are absolutely resistant to E-10 up to 100% ethanol. Only the cost ( money) has stopped the process. $2500 for a 55gallon barrel, since you can not buy a 5 gallon pail.
 
wow, $2500 for 55 gal. sounds pretty steep. You'll have to make a lot of tanks. How much resin is required for a Dunstall tank anyway. I may be interested in one when the time comes because I've had to put mine away and substitute a steel Interstate tank to retain the Dunstall seat and tail piece without the bollocks gap a roadster tank would produce. I guess I could have used an RGM tank but never considered it really.
Lance
 
I've been researching this resin suitability for over 10 years (on and off). My first task is to copy my 68 Dunstall atlas tank, which is the only one I currently know of. Of lesser concern is the 3 different variants of Dunstall commando tank that I own. Then... fastback tanks. I found the source for resin, 2 are coast guard approved (flame retardant) and a third which is suitable for todays E-10 gas up to a temp that far exceeds our norton application. I am trying to get an engineering sample of 5 gallons or some larger company to go "in" on the buy and split a 55 gallon drum with me. :mrgreen:
 
Hi Dynodave,
Approx. how many tanks will 5 gal of resin produce? Also, what is the price for 55 gal of resin that is not E10 proof?
I'm interested in having you manufacture a Fastback tank and also a Fastback fairing. I'm willing to contribute to a fund that helps you obtain the requisite resin.

Ed
 
APRRSV said:
Hi Dynodave,
Approx. how many tanks will 5 gal of resin produce? Also, what is the price for 55 gal of resin that is not E10 proof?
I'm interested in having you manufacture a Fastback tank and also a Fastback fairing. I'm willing to contribute to a fund that helps you obtain the requisite resin.

Ed

Its been a long time since I bought a more general purpose resin but today I think it's over$1000 for a barrel probably closer to $1500.
Resin is about 6lb a gallon.
fastback no gas cap 7lb
SS/Hirider 7-1/2 lb
Dunstall atlas 7-3/4 lb
dunstall commando 9 lb
early/square corners
late rounded corners
sprint w/insets in side panel & narrower
Interstate 11 lbs

+10-20% waste is not uncommon.
 
Dynodave,
I received this info from GFTP: "The manufacturer is Reichold and the product line and # is Dion 490-39".
Do you know if this is the good stuff?

Ed
 
grandpaul said:
dynodave said:
[... Resin is about 6lb a gallon...
Really? Isn't water over 8# a gallon? I would've thought resin would be heavier...

APRRSV said:
Dynodave,
I received this info from GFTP: "The manufacturer is Reichold and the product line and # is Dion 490-39".
Do you know if this is the good stuff?

Ed

go ahead and feel free to research it and let us know. :roll:
 
I just toured 4830 kms thru Washington, Idaho, Montana and Wyoming and was able to find Ethanol free fuel ( labelled as such at pump) for about 80% of my fuel ups. All of the Exxon stations had it as well as some Cenex.
Also on the Canadian portion of the trip I filled up at Chevron startions, all had ethanol free Supreme 94 octane.

Three years ago I did a similar trip and could not find any ethanol free fuel in the US.

Long term storage with ethanol type fuel seems to be the big issue . I can't imagine that quickly running thru the occasional tank of e10 while out on tour will do harm. I was refuelling after about four hours of running, surely the FG tanks would handle 4 hours of E10 in there on a very occasional basis?
Making sure the bike is full of ethanol free fuel before putting it away is relatively easy with all of this ethanol free fuel now available, at least here in the west.
Things are changing.

Glen
 
APRRSV said:
Dynodave,
I received this info from GFTP: "The manufacturer is Reichold and the product line and # is Dion 490-39".
Do you know if this is the good stuff?

Ed

Well curosity kills the cat and I had to look. UL1316 approved SO....

UL 1316
Glass-Fiber-Reinforced Plastic Underground Storage Tanks for Petroleum Products, Alcohols, and Alcohol-Gasoline Mixtures
 
When crude was $117 per barrel, ethanol , with all of it's Federal G production subsidies, was a cost cutter for refineries.
Now with crude at $45, the Ethanol, even with it's huge subsidy factor, is not helping the bottom line. I believe that is why these companies have all fairly recently added the ethanol free pump. It likely costs them less for the ethanol free gas and they sell it for more than the e10.
I know I'm getting ripped, but for a few dollars per year I'll gladly go with the ethanol free.
The ethanol free was generally available at the newer and larger facilities. I counted 104 pump nozzles at one huge new Sinclair station. That one had ethanol free fuel as well.

Glen
 
worntorn said:
I just toured 4830 kms thru Washington, Idaho, Montana and Wyoming and was able to find Ethanol free fuel ( labelled as such at pump) for about 80% of my fuel ups. All of the Exxon stations had it as well as some Cenex.
Also on the Canadian portion of the trip I filled up at Chevron startions, all had ethanol free Supreme 94 octane.

Three years ago I did a similar trip and could not find any ethanol free fuel in the US.

Long term storage with ethanol type fuel seems to be the big issue . I can't imagine that quickly running thru the occasional tank of e10 while out on tour will do harm. I was refuelling after about four hours of running, surely the FG tanks would handle 4 hours of E10 in there on a very occasional basis?
Making sure the bike is full of ethanol free fuel before putting it away is relatively easy with all of this ethanol free fuel now available, at least here in the west.
Things are changing.

Glen

Glen
Glad you enjoyed your ride. I have become more involved in the last 3 years on E-10 research. Spurred on by my recent involvement with OPE Outdoor Power Equipment. A few issues have more recently come to light in addition to old issues.
Old issue:
Long time ago...I made a fastback tank from resin that was supposed to be E-10 approved. Inside became tacky and believe was releasing resin into the gas then run through the engine and coating the intake port and more.... I no longer made any tanks and research started.
RECENTLY:
Poulan chainsaws (90's vintage)
fuel tank cap would swell to the point of almost not being able to get them out without destroying them. It be came routine to buy a spare cap and swap them out to give them a "rest" and breath where they shrunk back down again.
TYGON 4040A fuel lines. two part story :
Installed 1995 on my 75 command which stayed flexible, was still good but I put a new piece last summer prior to the Ashville rally last summer. so 20 years... I ran E-10 You would think that would give some confidence.
OPE/poulan put new 4040A in my saw which goes through the tank wall to the weight/filter. Now the tubing is now inside AND outside in contact with E-10. well in less than 2 years the fuel line broke off at the wall of the tank. the line was mush. Talking to the engineers at St Gobains Pennsylvania headquarters I found out that the fuel line is two layers and only the thin liner is E-10 proof and the outer is a different blend which lost strength and quickly died INSIDE the tank being constantly soaked in E-10.

Similar with my Pioneer Farmsaw (vintage Canadian chainsaw). The plastic fuel cap on a metal tank would swell with E-10 and almost not come out except using channel lock pliers. Pull it out and let it outgas the E-10 and after a few weeks it would go back in the hole OK.
Almost every one of my 32 chainsaws required carb rebuilds due to the rubber diaphragms getting stiff from the E-10.
So needless to say I no longer use E-10 in any OPE. Much newer saws may have rubber components that can tolerate ethanol.

My research has turned up that some chemicals called E-10 compatible are actually for occasional contact and NOT long term storage. These chemicals have been offered as slosh liners for our GFRP tanks. Eventually they all seem to fail. So I avoid them totally and have pursued making totally new tanks that are using UL 1316 approved and I will still test them myself before I am satisfied.
For product liability reasons I doubt I will make them to sell.

I have studied all aspects of E-10, the aging process, all kinds of additives, material damaging and it is a totally comprehensive discussion which there also is a TREMENDOUS amount of misinformation. I have no intention of addressing any of that here.

I just want to get my 68 Norton Dunstall (built & sold) Atlas back on the road, for which I need a new E-10 proof tank.

Specific gravity closer to 1.05 yes heavier than water
 
Dave, thanks, lots of good info there as always.

No doubt the E10 is crap, but do you think it would do appreciable harm to an original FG tank if it's only in the bike for 4 hrs or so and then it's back to the ethanol free stuff?
I appreciate you have done a lot of research on this stuff-I haven't, but have experienced nasty Carb crud problems after winter storage with e10 in the bikes. After getting everything clean, I avoid E10 like the plague and never winter store a bike with E10 in it.
Although ethanol free fuel is becoming easier and easier to find, once in awhile while out on the road in the US, E10 is the only choice. When stuck with it, I run it thru quickly and get back on the good stuff. So far no problems, but I'm not dealing with the FG tank dissolve problem, just the potential crud build up problem, which doesn't occur in 4 hrs.

I'm wondering if occassional very short term usage of E10 (typically 4 hrs) would be OK with the original FG tanks?

Glen
 
I've given up on Tygon fuel line. The stuff I bought was indeed an inner liner that's alcohol proof surrounded by an outer clear cover for structure. I found it's sometimes very difficult to get over the fittings without having the liner separate.

I've just switched to an Excelon line sold on Ebay by a guy from Salem, MA - near Dyno Dave. He was in my neighborhood in NH and actually delivered it! I've only had it on an old KZ750 for a few weeks now so I don't know the long term but the seller is quite confident in it. It'll be on my other bikes soon.

Sorry for the hijack but it is E10 related.
 
Here is the chemical resistance guide from Reichold
http://crecoinc.com/Reichhold Corrosion Guide.pdf

As expected Ethanol and Gasoline/Gasahol are fine. I do have a Fastback tank now in service so I'll know if it is OK in time.

My painter was sure that California gas contains Di-Chloro Methane (DCM) or Methylene Chloride (as it is sometimes called) but I have confirmed with the EPA that chlorides are not allowed in gas. DCM disolves pretty much any resin.
Here is part of the reply from the EPA for your interest.

On-road Fuel Additives have to meet 40 CFR Part 79 requirements prior to registration. One of the requirements is that the additive be substantially similar to the additives used during engine certification.

Fuel additives that contain chlorine in the composition does not meet the EPA’s substantially similar requirement because it would be composed of elements other than carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur (the so-called CHONS).
 
JimNH said:
I've given up on Tygon fuel line. The stuff I bought was indeed an inner liner that's alcohol proof surrounded by an outer clear cover for structure. I found it's sometimes very difficult to get over the fittings without having the liner separate.

I've just switched to an Excelon line sold on Ebay by a guy from Salem, MA - near Dyno Dave. He was in my neighborhood in NH and actually delivered it! I've only had it on an old KZ750 for a few weeks now so I don't know the long term but the seller is quite confident in it. It'll be on my other bikes soon.

Sorry for the hijack but it is E10 related.


I don't buy "Tygon" since it is only a family of plastic, trade name owned by St Gobains. There are dozens of blends under the generic term "tygon". Every coil of 4040A I buy, I ever bought (McMaster Carr) has included a paper enclosure stating it was 4040a AND there is white ink roll marked the entire length of the product. The outer layer is yellow, not clear. Even cheap Chinese copy of tubing advertise it as tygon. Could you have used a copy with a clear outer cover? no certification or white marking?
 
puffer_nutter said:
Here is the chemical resistance guide from Reichold
http://crecoinc.com/Reichhold Corrosion Guide.pdf
As expected Ethanol and Gasoline/Gasahol are fine. I do have a Fastback tank now in service so I'll know if it is OK in time.
[/i]

per PN "I do have a Fastback tank"
Are you saying a GFTP tanK? Made from the Reichold resin in question?

If so, It certainly sound like a reasonable candidate for a trial. I did note that the pure 100% ethanol temp rating was 80deg C being lower than the E-10 rating of 110deg.
However, The resin I am trying to acquire seems to have better ratings.
Please keep us up updated if you see a change in performance.... as if the internal resin seems to get "tacky".
I may start mold making to see if I can make a trial tank for the featherbed tank. My fastback mold is the late type with no badge inset. I also have a early type tank and can make a mold of that one too. This all sounds like work for this winter. :mrgreen:
good luck.
 
dynodave said:
JimNH said:
I've given up on Tygon fuel line. The stuff I bought was indeed an inner liner that's alcohol proof surrounded by an outer clear cover for structure. I found it's sometimes very difficult to get over the fittings without having the liner separate.

I've just switched to an Excelon line sold on Ebay by a guy from Salem, MA - near Dyno Dave. He was in my neighborhood in NH and actually delivered it! I've only had it on an old KZ750 for a few weeks now so I don't know the long term but the seller is quite confident in it. It'll be on my other bikes soon.

Sorry for the hijack but it is E10 related.


I don't buy "Tygon" since it is only a family of plastic, trade name owned by St Gobains. There are dozens of blends under the generic term "tygon". Every coil of 4040A I buy, I ever bought (McMaster Carr) has included a paper enclosure stating it was 4040a AND there is white ink roll marked the entire length of the product. The outer layer is yellow, not clear. Even cheap Chinese copy of tubing advertise it as tygon. Could you have used a copy with a clear outer cover? no certification or white marking?

It actually came from McMaster Carr. I tried two different types. I don't remember the first as it was some time ago but the second was advertised as Ultra Chemical resistant. I just looked at their website to try and remember the former version I tried and now the latter says "formerly Tygon"

The Excelon is real promising as it has what I consider just the right degree of firm/flex. Time will tell.
 
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