Stop turning brake rotors

How not to improve braking distance by turning down to new surface finish
http://www.oeqf.com/techinfo/scratching ... ing_lg.htm

Great aticle, thanks.

I stopped reasurfacing my cars' rotors about 20 years ago, new ones are just to inexpensive to pass up, plus they only require one trip to the parts store, and no waiting.

I am using the Blanchard grinding method for the rotors of my motorcycles and it is quite non-directional, I didn't think that you could actually fit an M/C rotor on a commercial brake lathe, anyone ever try that??

RS

I wonder how long it would take to wear the machining marks out? :lol:

RoadScholar said:

Great aticle, thanks.

I stopped reasurfacing my cars' rotors about 20 years ago, new ones are just to inexpensive to pass up, plus they only require one trip to the parts store, and no waiting.

I am using the Blanchard grinding method for the rotors of my motorcycles and it is quite non-directional, I didn't think that you could actually fit an M/C rotor on a commercial brake lathe, anyone ever try that??

RS

Click to expand...

Turning a cast iron Norton rotor is very easy on an automotive brake lathe. Turning a stainless motorcycle rotor on a brake lathe is nearly impossible as the rotor is so hard it deflects and chatters. I have turned many Norton rotors and then done a swirl pattern with a small grinder and a scotchbrite pad. Works very well. Jim

I have had the rusty chrome removed from my disc with a flywheel resurfacer for my norton & triumph .


Tim_S

thanks for posting that tutorial- I had no idea, clears up a lot of un explained brake mystery's over the years.

My Trixie front disc is working a treat for as good of slow down as tire can take but its got distinct ridges I'll someday try to knock down with belt sander run in radial direction not along direction of spin. Would be cool if someone set up a rig to dual grind a new micro grooved finish the way the hi end article describes, but only just enough to refine the surface w/o removing much. Only thing I'd expect to gain from a good stock brake is a bit less effort is all.

If anyone brave enough to follow hobot advice, take a glowing hot 6 penny nail and remove all restriction in the big rubber boot deep in master cylinder. None of the famous effective resleeve jobs have any restrictor so not really risking anything but flying over bars more than a drum's pull down. M/c are pretty easy to do this too while still mounted on bar.