Sticking fork tubes

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Pulled the forks back off the bike. Dis-assembled and ever so slightly relieved id and od of lower bush and split sleeve. I also went back to a pair of standard fork seals instead of the aftermarket no-leak variety. The stiction on the fork seals was pronounced. It is better now.

Forks seem much more behaved now. I have compression and rebound adjust (although not a huge amount), no topping out, the fork will pack up through a series of bumps and small bump compliance is still lacking. All due to, I suspect, continued stiction. I wonder if the progressive springs are necessary. I can hear them scraping on the inside of the stanchion as the fork cycles through its travel.
 
When things are NORMAL vs Common, by far the only striction detectable should be the springs rubbing inside the stanchions and that should not be much to over come by hand/body compression and release. [I assume springs and tube insides not rusted up] If you've only half fast checked stanchions on glass you may be in for a surprise lesion over looked till rolling them against each other. Also if fluid too high the fork action pumps out the air pocket for lock up-pack up, which can be very dangerous as reverses innate fork action to steer by jerking opposite expected on every little ripple or wave of surface. All springs used in forks will not give much spring resistance on first inch or so either side of sag level so don't expect much improvement with too soft off the shelf progressive springs.

Its also possible the issue is yokes tweaked off true...
 
Stanchions rolled on surface plate as well as rolled against each other on surface plate. All is well. Yokes (triple trees) are new from Cummings (Minnovation).

The point here is that just about everything is new. That doesn't mean a new part can't be the problem but all parts (stanchions, triple trees, bushings, seals, springs, dampers, fork oil) are brand new.
 
All new, oh ugh. You've about exhausted my imagination on this so only thing left a shade tree can suggest is assemble with one questionable item missing at a time tll slicker sense then focus on that a while. At this point I'd try a ride with em on rough surface with caution for a hillbilly fitting assist test.
 
Fork springs "snake up" when more than half compressed, causing a grateing inside the stanchion.
I have see quite a flat on the spring sides, make;s me wonder what the "Ground off" metal doe's when mixed with fork fluid :?:
If the fork assembly is still stiff the leg cannot react to suddern compressions,
These can be the cause

1, Bush's to tight.
2, wear in the sliders, very common!
3, yolk's out of alignment, due to past accidient, very common.
4, wheel spindle hole out of true.
5, Compression damping set to hard.
6, stanchion's bowed,,[not in your case]
7, over inflated tyre

Quoting Dennis Poore, Nortons MD after poor maching of cylinders " we dont solve problems here, we make them"

HMBAtrail said:
Pulled the forks back off the bike. Dis-assembled and ever so slightly relieved id and od of lower bush and split sleeve. I also went back to a pair of standard fork seals instead of the aftermarket no-leak variety. The stiction on the fork seals was pronounced. It is better now.

Forks seem much more behaved now. I have compression and rebound adjust (although not a huge amount), no topping out, the fork will pack up through a series of bumps and small bump compliance is still lacking. All due to, I suspect, continued stiction. I wonder if the progressive springs are necessary. I can hear them scraping on the inside of the stanchion as the fork cycles through its travel.
 
Donald this it.
john robert bould said:
Been there more times than i care to remember!
Please note the sliders are getting on ,i have some in the work shop for refurbing...precise steel sleeve pressed in and new"plastic bush's" makes them better than new,
I have a picture or two..i will get posted..via Lab. fingers crossed :wink:

Sticking fork tubes
 
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