Steering lock removal????

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Aug 26, 2005
Hi all
I want to fit my steering lock. I do not have a key but the lock appears OK, (not stuck).
What do you all suggest?
How is it removed, which I assume would be needed for a locksmith to cut a new key...

On mine....when I got it years ago....I found the lock would come out by putting the front wheel in the middle position and taking a flat screwdriver and simply using the screwdriver as a lever between the flat plate welded to the steering head and the bottom of the lock...popped right out. Stupid way to build it. Makes it too easy to remove. Even dumber that you can do it also when the lock is locked. I eventually drilled and tapped a small hole in the front of the yoke, where the lock passes through it and put a allen wench set screw in there and made it so the lock couldn't just be popped need at least an allen wench to get it out.....most casual bike borrowers don't carry an allen wench around with them......think the lock's numbered...but new locks, with a set of keys can't be so expensive too.....maybe the best solution. that we all know it only takes 5 seconds to borrow a aware I will take no responsibility for any borrowing that may are all on your own!!! :wink:
I guess it's just press fit in. This helps TKS...

A locksmith should be able to cut me a key once I get it out.
Just took a look at rgm's catolog on the net...looks like there are two types of locks, pre and MK3...difference in price too. So it might be that the later models' lock is more difficult to remove. Mine is a 72 and that, as a piece of cake...just about as easy as removing the seat...which someone proved to me a number of years ago too...... :wink:

Even at 8 or 16 British may be cheaper to just buy a new lock...a locksmith may want to get his car payment paid for making a key without an example to go by...........then again...maybe you will find one that is a Norton fan...... :D
looks like there are two types of locks, pre and MK3...difference in price too. So it might be that the later models' lock is more difficult to remove.

The 850 Mk3 type lock has to be removed from the underside of the yoke after removing a securing pin.
And is the 'Neiman' type although the Mk3 parts book still shows what is basically the earlier top yoke assembly illustration.
Tks for letting me know there are 2 types my bike is a "70" so I guess I have the orginal (poor?) design...

I'am not familar with the rgm's catolog, must go search & have a look what's there.
Here are two links..

I am in no way connected with either of these firms...but I have dealt with RGM for a good ten years without finding any reason to stop ordering from them. I have had my run-ins with Norvil....and I must admit that the problem was eventually cleared up...but just enough hassle to make me shy away. I will though, still give them a try if RGM can't help me find what I want. Ask for the printed catalog from RGM...having looked at the internet catalog...I see it needs a LOT of attention, missing or plain incorrect pictures....they will surely get it in order soon. The printed catalog is notch.

Even if you don't order a lock from them...get the catalog...from both never know when you will be happy you have them :D
I would also recommend Mick (and Angela) Hemmings (no website as yet) for fast friendly service, although I also deal with RGM and Norvil I do normally contact Mick Hemmings first.

It should be noted that 'Mick Hemmings Norvil' and 'Norvil Motorcycles' have no business connection.
Thanks for the tip LAB..

Like all of us that have been around this thing for a while...I am indeed familiar with the name....I have some small things on my wishlist to do to the machine when the wallet is a bit thicker...and I will keep this in mind..... :D
Took the cylinder out on my MK III it was a tough one since it's held in place with a split pin that has to be drilled out. Ended up ruining the cylinder, not sure it was worth it. Probably easier to take the top yoke off and take it to the locksmith intact.

While on the subject of locks; I count four:
1. Ignition
2. Steering Head
3. Seat
4. Gas Cap

Any idea on which of these can be keyed alike? I hate having a pocket full of keys if I don't need to. :)
If you have a locking gas cap on a Commando then it is non-standard.
It looks standard but since I bought the bike used may not be original. I won't complain though with the price of petrol these days can't be too careful. :cry:

The ignition and seat are keyed alike, the fork lock is separate. As L.A.B. pointed out, the gas cap is nonstandard. Looks like you're destined for three keys.
OuterbanKxsurf said:
Mine, a 75 850 Roadster

does have the pin. How do you remove it? Thanks

I have a '74 with '75 yokes. Didn't know the locks were different.
Ordered one from my '74 price book and then noticed the difference.
The '75 lock has a hardened roll pin to secure it in the yoke. It has to be drilled out.
I took mine to the locksmith who had a blank which fit but his labor to key it was $68.
It has to be removed to be re keyed.
A new one was half that.
The '75 lock from what I hear is a bitch to operate. You still have to secure it in the yoke. I'd drill the yoke and put in a set screw
I redid mine last year, just tapped it up and out from the bottom with a short screw driver. Took it to a locksmith who cleaned and keyed it for $25. It wasn't the same key blank as my ignition, which I knew had been replaced at some point. The locksmith figured out it took an Austin key blank. If you ever lose the keys and the barrel is numbered, take the number to a locksmith, they should be able to cut you a new one. Mine didn't come with a key, just some alligator clips to hot wire it but it had a number.

The steering lock isn't not much of a theft prevention device, the lock barrel is loose enough to pull it out with the key. I generally park it where I can see it, another + for patios
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