starting techniques (2012)

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The description ‘kick start’ is in itself wrong I think.

You don’t really ‘kick’ a bike like a Norton, you kick a small 2 stroke with a short sharp jab on the lever. With something like a Norton it’s more of a ‘swing start’!

You need to get the lever to the highest most position and really ‘swing’ on it for the fullest motion possible. You need to get your energy into spinning that heavy crank.

BUT... if you want this bike to start nicely and run well, you really do need to research things like cleaning the carbs, checking the ignition, fitting new plugs, emptying the sump of oil, freeing off the clutch, etc, etc especially if it is a bike that has stood for a while.
 
If it's still on Amal carbs they used to have a small hole beneath the tickler... just push down (not jab) until fuel appears there...
May be an idea to remove and clean the plugs (or put new in) and kick with them out BUT GROUNDED to check you have spark....
But you have to kick it like you're the boss :-)
 
The tickler is not like a pump. All it does is sink the float so the float bowl can overflow and flood the carbs with fuel. Just hold the button down until fuel comes out.
 
You need to get the lever to the highest most position and really ‘swing’ on it for the fullest motion possible. You need to get your energy into spinning that heavy crank.
I have found, at least for my 78kg frame - using an RGM longer lever, that the best way is to bring it up to & slightly into compression, then pull the clutch to get the lever almost horizontal before, as you say - firmly pushing it through.
For me this means second kicks are a rarity and more than that quite a surprise.
I suppose everyone has their own way - but then, this thread is a way of sharing the "lurv".
 
ANY carburetted engine usually responds best to a CLOSED throttle when cold. The vacuum needed to draw fuel and vaporize it goes away when it is opened even a bit, which is exactly what you DON'T want when cold/cranking speed.

Can you elaborate?
Every single carbureted engine that I have owned responded best to starting throttle off but cylinders loaded (ie step on the gas once or twice first) then rolling on throttle once it starts.
Am I doing something "wrong"?
You make mention of accelerator pumps on automotive (SOME bikes) carbs. There is no accelerator pump on Amals.
 
When you park you bike, take the few seconds to bring a piston up on compression without going over TDC. This will set you up for the next start and minimize oil migration into the sump.
Make sure key is on, fuel is on, etc etc...
If cold, push down gently on each tickler until fuel just shows. A half second longer if it is really cold out. Start with throttle about 1/8 open (adjust with experience)
Then with kickstarter latched onto starting pawl with a bit of foot pressure, lift your body up high vertically with your kicking foot maintaining a bit of pressure (so as to not loose pawl engagement) bring your whole weight firmly and near straight legged downward and swing the kickstart a full top to bottom smooth stroke. If it takes another attempt, reset the pistons to just before TDC...wait a few seconds, no more fuel & try again.
Adjust to suit. Experience will tell you how much fuel & throttle position when engine is cold or warm & how outside temperatures affect things.
Leaving/positioning the pistons just before TDC will give you less resistance at the begining of the starting stroke due to less compression to initially overcome, and thus
you gain speed and inertia as the pistons return for the first complete compression stroke to fire. Also "kicking" just creates undue wear on the starting assembly.
My 2cents
Cheers
 
Both taps on, 'tickle' until overflow, shove lever down..... Maybe a second shove. Let it even out and warm up well. Takes it a couple of minutes to decide if I deserve a ride..... She gets out tomorrow.
 
Thankyou to everyone that added tips and tricks! they helped magnificently! I've learnt so much technique wise now and it fired second kick in the evening that was starting to freeze - winter is totally here now haha - and I also promptly found why I am having starting issues - while I have been turning the taps off after each run, its been the "last thing" before heading inside and locking the shed - a good minute or so, and both Amal's are sticking the float\needle by the evidence of the fuel streaming out of the ticklers while running or sitting, this explains why it has trouble cruising and idling but WOT it's happy as Larry, its dumping excess fuel in (plugs are jet black) and WOT can use that extra fuel, but part throttle\cruise its running far too rich from the floats sticking

So I need to sort out a carb kit and I will whip those off and clean\service those, and look at a longer kickstart lever along with new plugs and leads too as they aren't looking flash on closer inspection either
 
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