solder question
- Thread starter pelican
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I suspect that silver solder would be proper but I have used regular rosin-core elec solder for these cables since the late 60's and never had a joint fail. The solder does not actually hold much tension anyway, the spread of the cable wires does that inside the connector; the solder just ensures the wires stay spread and there is actually very little tension on the solder "connection" itself. The actual solder load becomes more of a compression load than anything else.
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Well, I'm wrong about using silver solder - melts at way to high a temp. Looks like plumbing solder and elec solder are almost the same. There's a table of all the solders on this page with WAAAAAY more info than you ever wanted to know... 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder
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pelican said:
Control cables are the one things that you don't want to "Guess I'll see how this turns out." Maybe that's just me...
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i believe the main solder issue, going by aircraft protocol is
to avoid the acid flux d/t corrosion issues down the road.
Silver solder is what I use to place fittings in frame or structural
items as very strong but almost as hi heat as brazing rods to melt.
Cable strand fan lock in could also be cold welded by epoxy
in a hot pinch or heatless lark.
hobot
to avoid the acid flux d/t corrosion issues down the road.
Silver solder is what I use to place fittings in frame or structural
items as very strong but almost as hi heat as brazing rods to melt.
Cable strand fan lock in could also be cold welded by epoxy
in a hot pinch or heatless lark.
hobot
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When you buy the pro set up from Fanders you get a solder pot and a bar of 50/50 solder tin and lead. A bottle of clear flux can be had as well, that will last a life time because you use so little. As stated the crush of the cable being fixed by the solder is what does the job not the bond of the ferrule to the cable. Once the solder is melted in the pot the dunk is for 1 second never to exceed 3 seconds even on big brake cables. No solder should be seen running up the cable above the end being attached. The key is holding on to the cable to crush it just right. This is best done in away that will not distort the cable at all. To do this find a little block of maple wood and drill a hole just the size of the cable or .002 under if you can. Now with a wood chisel split the block in such a way to get a half a hole on each piece. Now you can clamp the cable so that the proper amount sticks out of the Ferrule for a perfect crush. A nail set used by carpenters is a good tool to use as it has a concave end. It still takes practice but a cable hand made to fit the bike will last a life time if routed right and cared for at it’s ends.
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