So bad I have to laugh...

Mancunian · Sep 7, 2012

Well, how about this one...I bought a 73' cdo that was a partial rebuild...the guy had done the engine, gears etc....I had the easy part....wiring, mostly bolt on stuff....so, as I have been slowly reassaembling I was in the final stages, carbs done new tank, wiring done...the problem is, the previous owner rebuilt the rear isolastic on a 12" through bolt....too short to assemble the zplates

Now, I have a 13" as called for but....can I go about this without a tear down? I've searched and found some info, but it was based around a ISo rebuild....I'd like to not have to rebuild....can the 12" be "knocked out" or no...

Any help?

Matt Spencer · Sep 7, 2012

N.Z. builders , ' bash em up & knock em out ', ater work at the pub , has differant inferances .

PUT THAT HAMMER AWAY. . . . Immediately ! .

Er, Right . Youll need a Beer crate 9 dont empty untill AFTER job completed .The weight of the cradle will missalign it all if you dont pack up under there .all .
So as the load on the bolt is off the bolt . If you were perfect , it would slide out with your fingertips or fingernails .

If you have to use brute force , getting the new one in isnt going to happen.

a cunning sod would drift out the Olde with the Newe , therefore getting a bird in the Bush being better than a bird in the hand , particularly two in the hand and none in the bush .

Mancunian · Sep 7, 2012

I'll give it a try! I'm tackling this tomorrow afternoon....wish me luck.

cjandme · Sep 7, 2012

I've not done this one yet, but I was thinking pretty much what Matt has spelled out. Take the load off and use the longer one to drift out the shorter one, unless it matters which side the bolt head ends up on, if it does then you could use a piece of rod first then the longer bolt to drift out the rod and presto-changeo. I don't have the luxury of going out to the garage to check my bike for the bolt head as I'm stuck in a hotel in South Carolina at the moment. There are probably a few threads on this already if you search the site. Also can reference oldbritts for the diagram etc... all the best,Cj

mikegray660 · Sep 7, 2012

yes - but don't use the new one to drift out the old one - lets be a step above shady-tree - you mushroom the end/mar the threads and you'll never get the new nuts on it - use a rod from hardware store or suitable drift

once old one is out carefully place new one through w/ rawhide/soft-face mallet with the nut on the outside thread your pushing it through to help, and adjusting cradle via scissor jack or what ever to aid in sliding it through

also as suggest relieve as much saggy weight as can via center-stand or scissor jack

DogT · Sep 7, 2012

mikegray660 said:
also as suggest relieve as much saggy weight as can via center-stand or scissor jack

Go for it. It really shouldn't be an issue. I replaced the boots and the Hemmings adjuster without much problem, even with the S exhaust which I had to remove. Put a jack under the engine.

Dave
69S

Matt Spencer · Sep 7, 2012

mikegray660 said:
yes - but don't use the new one to drift out the old one - lets be a step above shady-tree - you mushroom the end/mar the threads and you'll never get the new nuts on it - use a rod from hardware store or suitable drift

once old one is out carefully place new one through w/ rawhide/soft-face mallet with the nut on the outside thread your pushing it through to help, and adjusting cradle via scissor jack or what ever to aid in sliding it through

also as suggest relieve as much saggy weight as can via center-stand or scissor jack

Or put a Ball from B.Bearing between them .

IF its FREE fitting , as we said .

Hobot · Sep 7, 2012

This is the most common way i pull engine and cradle, just pull out or push in the long bolt. I use wood levers as not that much to bind it. Sometimes have to screw the bolt outto get started but usually just wiggles in/out by hand.

john robert bould · Sep 8, 2012

No one as advised GREASE! Come on lads :!:

Hobot · Sep 8, 2012

Non of the few isolastic bolt bikes I've seen apart had any grease other than oilly grime that accumulated in well worn leakers. Its a minor issue of personal policy but I'm not going to aid grit grinding mess to my isolastic bolts which once aligned slide in by hand even in tweaked frame needing sledge hammers and wood blocks and long levers to get mounts to fit between tabs. I remove grease/oil form the sliding interfaces too but Grit is a big issue here that might not be for others. Nice to fit the domed cap nuts instead of the plain Jane factory nuts. Its a good place for nylocs as nil heat to handle. These bolts don't seem prone to rust much but in wet climates grease would be good idea as air bone Grit much lower and tire grim slings don't hit this area as much. Do appreciate the variations other have to deal with even if don't apply to me.

Bernhard · Sep 8, 2012

As long as the bolt was not fitted by a Mr Boggit.
i.e a non standard size/thread.
I have an engine where the engine bolt has been cut off to remove it from the frame, it’s seized absolutely solid, I have drilled small holes into the crankcase to inject penetrating fluid, and hit it with a 2LB hammer and drift-all to no avail, I’m slowing losing my will to live.

john robert bould · Sep 8, 2012

Grease is better than water and rust.

hobot said:
Non of the few isolastic bolt bikes I've seen apart had any grease other than oilly grime that accumulated in well worn leakers. Its a minor issue of personal policy but I'm not going to aid grit grinding mess to my isolastic bolts which once aligned slide in by hand even in tweaked frame needing sledge hammers and wood blocks and long levers to get mounts to fit between tabs. I remove grease/oil form the sliding interfaces too but Grit is a big issue here that might not be for others. Nice to fit the domed cap nuts instead of the plain Jane factory nuts. Its a good place for nylocs as nil heat to handle. These bolts don't seem prone to rust much but in wet climates grease would be good idea as air bone Grit much lower and tire grim slings don't hit this area as much. Do appreciate the variations other have to deal with even if don't apply to me.

mikegray660 · Sep 8, 2012

Good point John -also consider the source :? :shock: - yes i should of mentioned a very light coating of grease too on the through bolt, and cleaning the passageway beforehand (a gun cleaning rod w/ swipe works well!)

Matt free fitting - yes if fitted recently and greased, on a bike i'm redoing now it was frozen in place, serious heat/hammers/penetrating oil/cussing to remove it - :shock:

john robert bould said:
Grease is better than water and rust.

hobot said:

Non of the few isolastic bolt bikes I've seen apart had any grease other than oilly grime that accumulated in well worn leakers. Its a minor issue of personal policy but I'm not going to aid grit grinding mess to my isolastic bolts which once aligned slide in by hand even in tweaked frame needing sledge hammers and wood blocks and long levers to get mounts to fit between tabs. I remove grease/oil form the sliding interfaces too but Grit is a big issue here that might not be for others. Nice to fit the domed cap nuts instead of the plain Jane factory nuts. Its a good place for nylocs as nil heat to handle. These bolts don't seem prone to rust much but in wet climates grease would be good idea as air bone Grit much lower and tire grim slings don't hit this area as much. Do appreciate the variations other have to deal with even if don't apply to me.

Click to expand...

Hortons Norton · Sep 8, 2012

Great thread!! I am thinking of doing both front and rear iso's on my MK III, Can the rear iso rubbers be changed without removing the cradle?? As soon as the weather cools a bit I am going to start getiing her ready for Wyoming, Thanks in advance, Chuck.

Mancunian · Sep 8, 2012

Thanks fellas, my fears are at ease...on another note, forgot today was my anniversary :shock: quick online booking to fallsview casino, and crisis averted...nothing like a suprise romantic night away from the kids....would of lost last half the Norton in a divorce :lol:

rpatton · Sep 8, 2012

You probably really want to go ahead and use the new stud to push the bolt out because the buffers float in the tube with enough space that they'll drop out of center, then the new stud might not be able to get through. You've got it on the centerstand. Put something under the rear wheel thick enough so that you take all the load off the iso. If the rear wheel isn't on just have somebody hold up the frame in the back. The old bolt should just slide out.

gtsun · Sep 8, 2012

Good save on the anniversary / romantic life! Good luck & let us know how the Iso replacement thing goes, I need to do mine & think I'll use the Hemings adjustable ones. Congrads by the way.

DogT · Sep 8, 2012

I had my rear iso stud out to get rid of the spacers and put on the Hemmings adjuster. I had an old 1/2" x 20" carriage bolt laying around and I used that to push out the iso stud and replaced the parts along the way. Since my iso is full of separate bushings, I didn't want to drop one inside there. Since I just replaced the parts 2 years ago, it went easily. But if you want to replace the donuts and spacers, you'll have to get a lot of stuff out of the way and get the cradle up enough to push out the old stuff and the new stuff in. I have the procedure for doing it without removing the cradle in a file, if anyone wants it, I'll look it up. I think it's in an old thread on this forum.

Dave
69S

Hortons Norton · Sep 8, 2012

Yea that would be great Dave, I plan on doing mine soon and any info would help. The front looks fairly easy but the rear looks to be a bit more involved. Thanks, Chuck.

Mancunian · Sep 9, 2012

Went perfectly! Bike on center stand, used my kids skateboard for leverage under the rear wheel...slid out easily, new one went in, with a little skateboard adjustment and patience...very relieved....zplates on and snug....happy man.

Plus, won big at the casino, wife happy.....all good!

So bad I have to laugh...

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