I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)

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Im leaning that way too. I'm thinking of purchasing 2 of the following. And attaching them to the bottom of the petcocks. Then I will purchase 2 180 degree banjos and attach those at the carbs. This setup will allow me to purchase bulk 1/4 clear fuel hose. I may even squeeze the 2 metal amal inline filters.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/6AFN5-Hose-B ... 3=&veh=sem
 
I made some headway today. Pick up a few bits from a local vendor. Some screws, throttle cable, oil tank bolts, throttle control, and a brake lever. This evening I have been putting more pieces back together.

I'm needing to know where the zener diode and rectifier are to be mounted to the frame.

Also, I need to know where to mount the warning light assimilator.

An overall picture of where these parts are mounted would be helpful. But if no pic maybe a few words of advice.
 
I think I have pix of all those items.

Zener diode mounts inside/behind footpeg on the right side Z-plate. In this photo, retaining nut is at the top, right of center.

I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)


Rectifier mounts on the rear frame web plate on the Left side. Here you can see the wires on the backside of the web plate (also shows location of 2MC capacitor). Rectifier bolts thru the top hole in the sidecover mounting tab.

I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)


Warning light assimilator mounts on a spring on one of the coil mount bolts. Note the hangar hook for the harness, bolted to the top/head steady. Also note the red ground wires bolted to the base of the top steady.

I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)
 
grandpaul said:
Note the hangar hook for the harness, bolted to the top/head steady.

I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)
Click to expand...

The "hanger hook for the harness" looks more like the rocker feed pipe support clip, and I don't think the harness would normally be routed around the outside of the head steady plate as shown in that photo.

what-this-where-does-please-t25173.html
 
L.A.B. said:
grandpaul said:
Note the hangar hook for the harness, bolted to the top/head steady.

I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)
Click to expand...

The "hanger hook for the harness" looks more like the rocker feed pipe support clip, and I don't think the harness would normally be routed around the outside of the head steady plate as shown in that photo.
Click to expand...

I should state that this is a 1974 John Player Norton 850, and may be different. I seem to recall having these hooks on at least 3 other Commandos, I'll have to go back and look at other project photos...
 
Thanks for the pics. And the clarifications. I now have most the electrical components installed. Going g to install the coils shortly.

I am missing a part and will need it eventally. It's the speedo gauge holder. I'm putting my feelers out there for one.
 
grandpaul said:
I should state that this is a 1974 John Player Norton 850, and may be different. I seem to recall having these hooks on at least 3 other Commandos, I'll have to go back and look at other project photos...
Click to expand...

Well, it seems you routed the harness in the conventional position over the RH AV mount during the rebuild.

grandpaul said:
I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)

I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)
Click to expand...
 
joel1 said:
Thanks for the pics. And the clarifications. I now have most the electrical components installed. Going g to install the coils shortly.

I am missing a part and will need it eventally. It's the speedo gauge holder. I'm putting my feelers out there for one.
Click to expand...
I have a single, mismatched late style (deep / black) one, if nothing else surfaces.

I also have a spare matched pair (dull), and a spare polished set. I don't like to break up sets...
 
L.A.B. said:
Well, it seems you routed the harness in the conventional position over the RH AV mount during the rebuild.
Click to expand...

You are right, although that is the 72 Combat.

Strange, I know I've had them routed on the other side before, is that MkII and later, maybe?
 
L.A.B. said:
grandpaul said:
L.A.B. said:
Well, it seems you routed the harness in the conventional position over the RH AV mount during the rebuild.
Click to expand...

You are right, although that is the 72 Combat.
Click to expand...

What is the '72 Combat? All photos are of your '74 JPN?

john-player-special-restoration-project-t23470-60.html#p309470

john-player-special-restoration-project-t23470-285.html#p314724
Click to expand...

I'm losing track, didn't look close. I did use the hangar clip (later) to pull the harness over to the left as I found it on the JPN.
 
I'm going to continue to search around for a single Guage holder. Well I'm continuing to move in the electrical direction. I'm getting ready to mount the coils. I have some questions about the silver relays? That also get mounted up under the coil mount.

Their is a space for three relays. I have a total of 5 to hose from. So my questions are

1. Will I need 3 relays?

2. Are the relays the same strength? Or do I need to pay close attention to what part of the black rubber ontainer to out them in. It appears that the two outer spaces on the holder are open for blades?

I will have a pic posted shortly.
 
joel1 said:
Their is a space for three relays. I have a total of 5 to hose from. So my questions are

1. Will I need 3 relays?

2. Are the relays the same strength? Or do I need to pay close attention to what part of the black rubber ontainer to out them in. It appears that the two outer spaces on the holder are open for blades?
Click to expand...


None of them are "relays".

The ceramic item attached to the coil bracket is the ballast resistor for the original points ignition 6V coils.

The 4 small circular items are ignition condensers (only 2 required) that fit to the metal plate with the rubber cover on top, the tabs poking through the slots.

The silver item on the left is the 3AW charge warning 'assimilator' which turns the red charge warning light off when it senses (AC) output from the stator has reached a certain level.

The blue item below that is the 2MC emergency starting capacitor which allows starting with a discharged battery or, with no battery at all.

Read the manual electrical section J for more information.

As you intend to fit electronic ignition, the ballast resistor and the condenser parts are not required.
 
Thanks L.A.B for the heads up regarding fuses. After reading the article I came away with..... if an American fuse is to be used....the American fuse should be no larger than a 17 amp fast blow. Otherwise an American 35 amp fuse will not blow and damage will be caused to the electrical system.

L.A.B I do have intentions of getting electronic ignition on the bike. However in the interm I have changed from immediately fully restoring the bike to.....get the bike running and see what i have. If the motor turns out to need to be gone through that will be primary budget.

In the meantime I would like to put together a simple wire harness. One that allows the bike to run. And how to route the harness.

I am going to get a set of points for it and work on getting spark.

I have not taken the primary apart. I see two electrical wires coming from the of the primary. The electrical wires end connectors have been cut off and stripped wire is all the is left. I'll have a look at the manual to get testing procedures for the magneto.


I read the J section of the manual. And the reverse polarity is going to become a challenge for my way of thinking. Running a fuse to the negative terminal of the battery?
 
joel1 said:
I read the J section of the manual. And the reverse polarity is going to become a challenge for my way of thinking. Running a fuse to the negative terminal of the battery?
Click to expand...

Don't overthink it.

All you basically need to remember for positive earth/ground polarity is that the positive connections of polarity sensitive items such as electronics and ignition coils etc. go to the "earth/ground" side.

The electrical system can be converted to negative earth/ground easily enough.
 
I'm either missing parts or this Norton just doesn't have one or a space for one. I can't find the oil filter nor a place for an oil filter. I found only the oil screen in oil tank. Do these earlier Nortons not come with an oil filter?

I have searched through Grandpauls complete rebuild thread and noticed that their is a designated space down under the gearbox for an oil filter. This Norton frame does not have that much space to house an oil filter.

Also the oil tank that I have is slightly different than that in the manual. Off the backside (Part of the tank closest to the rear tail light) is a metal tube that protrudes downward from the near top of the oil tank. The manual shows a tee in the tube. The tank that I have has no T in the tube. Mine is just a straight downward tube.

I would think an oil filter is a must for these bikes but IDK? Any thoughts?

&*%^!$@%* snapped off a front valve cover stud. Addiing that to my "to do list' Looking to order one of those. Broke off done in the head. I thought tack weld a rod to the end of the broken stud with my mig weld. Supposedly the heat directly on the steel and not the aluminum will assist with the removal. Then attempt to unsrew it out. And if that doesn't work. I begin the drill and "easy out" method. Of which I have had little luck with in the past.
 
joel1 said:
I'm either missing parts or this Norton just doesn't have one or a space for one. I can't find the oil filter nor a place for an oil filter. I found only the oil screen in oil tank. Do these earlier Nortons not come with an oil filter?

I would think an oil filter is a must for these bikes but IDK? Any thoughts?
Click to expand...



The spin-on cartridge filter that would normally be located behind the gearbox was not fitted until serial number 208754 during 1972.

This can be fitted to your Commando but requires two holes to be drilled in the cradle (see link, below).

http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/techtalk13.htm

Note that the '72 parts book drawing shows the filter assembly on the wrong oil line! It should be on the scavenge/return side, not the feed.
 
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