I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)

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joel1 said:
I have removed the carbs and intakes. Amal 30m. I have cleaned them and am in the search for carb kits. Plastic float and plastic needles??? really???. That is what I removed. Metric bikes all have carb kits. Do Amal have carb kits available? O-rings, float and needle, gasket.
I will need the procedure on how to reinstall the intakes and carbs. Grandpaul where can I find a copy of Kims CD? I think I will install the carbs to the intakes first on the bench. Then install the intakes. This proves itself difficult due to the inner intake bolts not being easily accessible (Allen head). I suspect I will need to cut to fit one of my allen head wrenches. If anyone had a link to a video of an installation that would be great.

The fiberglass tank has been cleaned both with lacquer thinner and soap and water. It is nearly ready for a lining kit. Someone suggested caswell lining kit.

The petcock valves have been removed and will be replaced with new.

The fuel lines on these Nortons are huge and not at all like metric bikes (Bulk hose). So my question is does the fuel line come as a complete unit? (I hope it does) If it does then does the bike (being a mish mash complicate the length of the fuel hoses?

I am in need of a throttle cable. Specifically the portion of the cable from the control lever down to the split off to the two carbs.

At this time I am avoiding the choke system. To make that work. I would need a choke lever, complete cable, and one carb slide. I was told that I could start the Norton without a choke system in place. Any thoughts?

I am going forward with installing electronic ignition. Its been suggested Boyer. I need to be sure what MK I have. Will the engine number give me this info?

And I will need to get a wire harness. It has been suggested that a wire harness can been made? Any thoughts?

Britishonly.com is geographically located in Michigan about two hours away. Any thoughts?

To the best of my knowledge these are the items that are most needed to make the Norton engine start.
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Lots of questions, lots of answers.

Amal now has "stay up" floats and viton-tipped metallic float needles, both recommended. Also available in complete rebuild kits. You MUST soak the carb bodies and all metallic parts in a 1-gallon can of warm Berryman's Chem-Dip for at least half an hour, then rinse thoroughly. I use Craftsman "ball end" allen wrenches to nip up the intake bolts (always mount the carbs to the intakes first, ticklers facing OUT)

BritBike.Com lists Kim's CDs, they're available in many different places.

I don't care for tank liners unless you cut out the bottom of the tank, strip it properly, line the top and bottom halves, then seal the two VERY CAREFULLY. I don't do this myself. Good Indian steel tanks are available for a reasonable price.

Old Britts has complete fuel line assemblies ready to bolt on (they also sell ALL Commando bits at good prices, including cables, wiring harnesses, etc).

I like to have the enricher slides in place, rather than not having them and one cold day needing them.

Tri-Spark has perhaps the best reputation of all EI systems, also perhaps the most expensive. I use Sparx with excellent results (yes, a VERY few warranty returns, all done very quickly). Others use Pazon with good success. I don't like Boyers, personally; I have SEEN (personally) and heard (plenty) of failure reports (although some people have old ones still firing just fine). They all fit all points cavity model Commandos, some can be adapted to magneto hole Commandos.

I make basic, simple wiring harnesses (for my bikes and custom builds) that have a 100% perfect record (some for over 20 years); others use various relays, etc. which are nice.

I have a reseller account with BritishOnly, they've been supplying about 25-30% of my Triumph/Norton/BSA needs for over 15 years; I like their search feature, it's very handy (but you kinda need to know the part number). I also like that they have used, Pacific Rim, and British parts options for lots of thier stock.
 
joel1 said:
I have cleaned them and am in the search for carb kits.
Click to expand...

http://amalcarb.co.uk/mk-i-concentric-s ... eries.html


joel1 said:
Plastic float and plastic needles??? really???. That is what I removed.
Click to expand...

If the floats are still in good condition (no splits or cracks) they can be re-used, or replace with the latest 'StayUp' type and use the latest alloy float needles.

http://amalcarb.co.uk/mk-i-concentric-s ... e-kit.html
http://amalcarb.co.uk/technical/


joel1 said:
I think I will install the carbs to the intakes first on the bench. Then install the intakes. This proves itself difficult due to the inner intake bolts not being easily accessible (Allen head). I suspect I will need to cut to fit one of my allen head wrenches. If anyone had a link to a video of an installation that would be great.
Click to expand...

Yes, fit the carbs to the intake manifolds first.
Fitting the 'first' carb and manifold to the head is easy enough, it's only the inner bolt of the 'second' carb that can be awkward and a cut-down Allen key makes this much easier.

I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)


joel1 said:
The fuel lines on these Nortons are huge and not at all like metric bikes (Bulk hose). So my question is does the fuel line come as a complete unit?
Click to expand...

Yes, there are two basic types, for 'early' and 'later' models.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-de ... y-h-style-
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-de ... r-i-state-

joel1 said:
I am in need of a throttle cable. Specifically the portion of the cable from the control lever down to the split off to the two carbs.
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This should be available from any Andover Norton parts supplier or cable specialist and there are various lengths to suit different handlebars.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-dr ... ol-cables#

joel1 said:
At this time I am avoiding the choke system. To make that work. I would need a choke lever, complete cable, and one carb slide. I was told that I could start the Norton without a choke system in place. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

You are unlikely to need the choke assembly.



joel1 said:
I am going forward with installing electronic ignition. Its been suggested Boyer. I need to be sure what MK I have. Will the engine number give me this info?
Click to expand...

A Boyer should fit your Commando regardless of its mark or year although their analogue 'Micro' ignitions have their own series of Mark numbers, the latest type being Micro MkIV, also two digital ignitions, 'Micro-Digital' and 'Micro-Power' however, there are other choices for EI such as Pazon.

http://www.boyerbransden.com/productinfo.html

http://www.pazon.com/

joel1 said:
And I will need to get a wire harness. It has been suggested that a wire harness can been made? Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Making a harness is up you but they can be readily bought 'off the shelf' from an AN parts supplier or British Wiring etc.:

https://www.britishwiring.com/

I would definitely recommend that you replace all the old female bullet connectors.
 
Just a preemptive note: once you get to the point where you're thinking of adding engine oil, wait until the day that you're sure you're going to fire it up. You may have already come across the dreaded "wet sump" issue noted in numerous threads throughout this web site and others. With the dry sump oil system carrying its reserve above the engine, the oil in the tank will slowly (sometimes quickly) find its way into the bottom of the engine. In fact, depending on how the PO stored yours, there's a good chance you'll find a good quantity of oil already there if you were to pull the sump plug (you probably should do that anyway, just to be sure). That's also why you should check engine oil level only after having just run the engine, and not before.
Also, don't be tempted to pull the spark plugs and kick it over until you see oil returning to the tank. Unlike the crank, the cam and lifters always have a heavy load to carry, and they rely on their ability to hydroplane on a film of oil. With the cam running at half crank rpm, that interface begins to fail at anything much less than 1000 crank rpms. Your best bet is to pour a couple of ounces of fresh engine oil into the inlet rocker well (this will run down into the lifters), get the engine to light as quickly as possible, and hold at 1500 and above until you see oil returning to the tank.

Thanks for re-activating your thread!

Nathan
 
Thanks Grandpaul. You've given myself a lot to consider. I am actively chasing down your suggestions.
 
The engine number and transmission number are identical. the engine and trans number is 201252. I need this number to determine what MK model I have.

And I need to know what MK model I have to correctly order the right electronic ignition. Correct?
 
joel1 said:
The engine number and transmission number are identical. the engine and trans number is 201252. I need this number to determine what MK model I have.
Click to expand...

Edit: Text removed due to a misunderstanding.

joel1 said:
And I need to know what MK model I have to correctly order the right electronic ignition. Correct?
Click to expand...

No, just order one for a Norton Commando, however, the latest Boyer 'Micro' does happen to be the MkIV but this is a coincidence.

Examples:
http://www.boyerbransden.com/micromarkiv.html
KIT00053 Norton Atlas/Commando 12v
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http://www.pazon.com/ignition-system/su ... 2volt.html

NORTON Commando 750/850 / NORTON Atlas
Click to expand...

http://www.pazon.com/ignition-system/altair-twin

http://www.trispark.com.au/home/products/
 
joel1 said:
The engine number and transmission number are identical. the engine and trans number is 201252. I need this number to determine what MK model I have. And I need to know what MK model I have to correctly order the right electronic ignition. Correct?
Click to expand...
No, as I said, they all fit in the points chest, and are basically the same in operation.
 
I have attached here a couple of pics. The first pic is of the fuel hoses setup along with a throttle handle and two different style intakes. I need to make a decision on which intakes to use. Both styles are in good condition just one hose screws in and the other is solid. Any thoughts? https://www.dropbox.com/s/9gd6fq71v4u2t ... 8.jpg?dl=0

The next picture is of some bits that I have been scratching my head trying to figure out. The pic in the pic is my last garage. And since then I have cleaned up the place. Lol metrics and Britts shouldn't be allowed under the same roof in this condition. https://www.dropbox.com/s/5a4xsgnp6ea5u ... 0.jpg?dl=0
 
Grandpaul I'm starting to see how the electronic ignition share similarities in design. Where I become confused is that different manufactures use different marketing language for their own product. Hence, that is why I asked for clarification. I want to order the correct product the first time.
 
joel1 said:
I need to make a decision on which intakes to use. Both styles are in good condition just one hose screws in and the other is solid. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

The intake shown on the left should be 32-32mm size and probably correct for 201252 which I would assume was a 'Combat' tuned engine originally, with a Combat 32mm inlet port head (does it have a 'C' stamp on the top) for 32mm (932) carbs. The intake on the right is 30-28.5mm size (unless it has been opened out) for a 'standard' tune model with 30mm (930) carbs and 28.5mm inlet port head.

joel1 said:
The next picture is of some bits that I have been scratching my head trying to figure out.
Click to expand...

I will have a go at identifying the parts. Possibly not all are Commando?

Top row, L to R:

1) ???? Cable nipples??? :?
2) (Broken) oil tank upper AV mount
3) Star washer, for????
4) Brake pipe union nuts?
5) Alternator rotor nut and washer, possibly??



Bottom row, L to R :
1) Gearbox output sprocket nut and lock plate
2) Brass item..possibly a cable nipple? :?
3) Tach. cable drive spade
4) Gear position indicators
5) Amal fuel filters?
6) Drum brake cam
 
L.A.B

The inlet ports on the engine measure 31.81mm (digital micrometer).

The carbs are stamped 932 each have a 19 and 20. I'm assuming the 19 and 20 indicate left and right.

The intakes I'm using measure 31.75mm

And the other intakes that will not be used measure 29.85mm

I searched the top of the engine for a letter C stamping. I did not see a letter c stamp. The engine is mounted in the bike and maybe it's under the top mounting bracket. I'll keep an eye out for it as I get closer to mounting the carbs.
 
joel1 said:
I searched the top of the engine for a letter C stamping. I did not see a letter c stamp. The engine is mounted in the bike and maybe it's under the top mounting bracket.
Click to expand...

Yes, the 'C' will probably be under the head steady bracket.
(R)932/19 and (L)932/20 would be the correct carbs for a 'Combat'.

swooshdave said:
I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)
Click to expand...
 
joel1 said:
I have some identical numbers from the engine and transmission # 201252 but there is no serial tag on the neck of the frame. Click Link to see the bike. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/709 ... .08.01.jpg
Click to expand...

My first '72 750 combat roadster was 201123 and built Oct '71. Likely yours is the same month. Early '72 models were roadster, fastback and probably HiRider (also Production Racer). Interstate didn't come till a little later around 205xxx. The NOC in England could tell you what body style from the factory records. They confirmed on my present '72 combat that it was built as a signal red roadster. Still is.
 
illf8ed said:
Interstate didn't come till a little later around 205xxx.
Click to expand...


What is the source of that information?

The first Interstate was: 'KJW 375K' and we know from the DVLA database that KJW 375K was registered in the UK on 9th December 1971 so Interstate production would most likely have started earlier than 205xxx.

Edit: Certain Norton book authors have "212278" down as being "the first Interstate" but this has to be wrong because 212278 can be dated to October 1972 from a Norton Service Release.


Edit: Text deleted due to a misunderstanding.
 
I removed the head steady bracket and found a letter "C" stamped in the casing.

Earlier today I read about the amal carbs from the link L.A.B provided. Im pretty confident that the carbs are good except for possibly the slides being out of clearance. Time will tell.

Today I reached out to both britishonly.com and andover-norton.co.UK and set up accounts.
 
joel1 said:
Today I reached out to both britishonly.com and andover-norton.co.UK and set up accounts.
Click to expand...
Old Britts is a domestic Andover dealer, in Washington state.

They also have all the parts books on their site, you can order right from the web pages with the listings.

www.oldbritts.com

Fred and Ella are fine Norton/Commando folks.
 
Tomorrow I will be setting up an account with oldbritts.com.

Regarding the fuel line. I question the design of the fuel lines. Have others made up a different setup for fuel lines? Metric bikes use half the size diameter hose. As well metric bikes use brass hose fittings similar to this.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/6AFN5-Hose-B ... 3=&veh=sem
 
joel1 said:
Tomorrow I will be setting up an account with oldbritts.com.

Regarding the fuel line. I question the design of the fuel lines. Have others made up a different setup for fuel lines? Metric bikes use half the size diameter hose. As well metric bikes use brass hose fittings similar to this.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/6AFN5-Hose-B ... 3=&veh=sem

Someone are to explain why the two fuel lines coming from the tank
Click to expand...
Joel,
Use the later 850 style fuel line where the lines are all behind the fuel bowls on the amals.https://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=htt ... mrc&uact=8 The earlier 750's used a "H" shaped fuel line.https://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=htt ... mrc&uact=8
cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
I prefer to make up simple 2-drop fuel lines with a connecting line between the carbs at the float bowl, using dual-neck connectors there.
 
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