Small opportunity if you have an 3D printer

A few years ago I had a friend make me a tool I use on every engine build. It was 3D printed. He got rid of the printer and did not keep the data file.

It is a quit simple thing. He 3D printed it but it could be made from 1" across flats hex aluminum or steel stock. I can easily have them made in aluminum for $37 each in lots of 10. I could also buy aluminum hex stock, cut to length, drill the hole and then buy the broach to cut the key slot, but I'm already working seven days a week

For someone with a 3D printer, you could make a little money making and selling them or you can just be nice an make me one - I'm happy to pay for it - it is a REALLY helpful tool! Right now, I'm stuck using a rotor and strap wrench.

Basically, it replaces the rotor and fits a 1" hex socket. The one I have is 1" across flats and 3/4" depth. If needs a keyway for the rotor key. It would be nice if it was the depth of the rotor. I've tried many times to get a good picture but since it is black, that has eluded me. This is the best I've taken. It appears like there is a lip inside, but the hole is straight through just like a rotor.

The keyway is mangled in the one I have and doesn't hold anymore, but I've build about 20 engines using it, so no wonder!

Hate to sound dumb, but what is it for?

1973x75 said:

Hate to sound dumb, but what is it for?

Click to expand...

When building an engine you often need to turn it. That is difficult to do with new pistons and especially difficult once the head is on and the valves are being worked. See the picture. A rachet and 1" socket and it becomes very easy to turn.

Later when the primary is together all but the rotor, you can turn the engine to find TDC, mark the stator, then put the rotor on and using the AN tool, check that the degree indicator is correct.

For those that like to pre-charge the engine with oil, you put the oil junction block on and keep adding oil to the feed and turning the engine until it comes out of the return then connect the two with a pipe until the engine is installed. I don't do that with it on a stand since I put the engine on it's side to install in the frame but once the oil tank and filter are connected, I do run it through some cycles along with squirting oil in the intake and exhaust areas.

Probably way more than you wanted to know!

From what I remember reading elsewhere, the center of the rotor is hex stock. Do you have an old one that has loosened and is junk anyway?


He did post photos, but they got photobucketed.