Single Phase Rectifier/Regulator ( Wiring Inst )

Hi Guys,

I am hoping that somebody can help me. If they have any information on Installing a Single Phase Rectifier/Regulator on an 850 MK II Commando.
The make is by Launtop Power Products.

Description: DFF 268 SINGLE PHASE RECTIFIER/REGULATOR.

Input: AC14V/65V ( it could be AC14V/6.5V, the info plate is a little worn)
Output: DC13.5V + or _0.5
Output Current: 15 amps

This unit has 4 wires, 1 red, 1 black and 2 blue wires.

I am not certain on how to wire this unit with the polarity of my Norton beinga positive earth.
I have searched on google for onfo but have had no luck!

Perhaps, there is a bright spark that can help or maybe somebody has the same unit fitted and can inform me of the correct wiring con figuration.

Many thanks.

Brewer.

Red to ground, black to battery and the blue wires to the two wires from the stator.

Thanks Ron L.

Are you familiar with this brand of Rectifier/regulator?
And does the aluminium finned housing require to be earthed to the frame?

Brewer.

Since the R/R has a ground wire, body doesn't need to be mounted to the frame. It should be mounted somewhere where there's sufficient airflow to keep it cool (fins are heat sinks).
Sounds similar to the R/R on my Speed Triple, which is mounted to the front of the underseat tray (plastic). Only difference is the Triumph has a three-wire stator, hence three wires from the stator to the R/R.

Thanks BillT,

I have just had a electrician workmate bench test this unit.... He said that the test results are shown that the black wire is earthed to the R/R body! does this mean that the body needs to be insulated from the frame etc, and that it should not make metal contact to the frame whatsoever!!!!!--?, or do I have the wrong unit which is useless for my purpose?

brewer

Brewer,
I don't have experience with Launtop. They seem to be a Chinese manufacturer of piston engined generators.

I made my statement based on my experience with Tympanium, Sparx, Boyer, and Podtronics. All are convertible from posititve ground system or negative ground system by grounding the appropriate black/red (or brown/red) wire.

I am puzzled by your electrician friend's comment so maybe I spoke (wrote) too soon. Can any or our more electronically competent members comment on whether or not this type of device should be internally earthed?

Where did you find this oddity?

It's possible the device is internally grounded. Use a negative ground electrical system system and connect red to + battery, black to ground and it won't matter if the body is grounded internally.

Hi Ron L, I got the R/R from a guy over here. he has a electrical contractor who does all of his electrical work.
Thanks for your input Jim C.

So if I change my elecs over to a negative earth I "should" be able to run this R/R?
I doing this, is there much involved in changing to a negative earth on a MKII?

Brewer

There are only a couple of polarity sensitive components. The stock regulator (Zener diode) and rectifier will be removed anyway when you use the aftermarket unit. Then you swap wires to the battery and you're done. Of course you will have to remember forever after that the red wires in the harness are negative. Also be sure to mention this to the new owner if you ever part with the bike.

Alternately, you can isolate the regulator from chassis ground with a rubber pad and nylon screws. But the case of the unit then becomes a big "hot" terminal to your battery, begging to be shorted out by metal things like tools.

Then you swap wires to the battery and you're done.

Click to expand...

Unless you are running an electronic ignition. It will need to be re-wired.

Yes. i do have a Lucas Rita Electronic ignition.
The amplifier is type AB.

The wires from amplifier are:

White/Brown, which connects to Black/White for pickup.

Brown, which connects to Black/Yellow for pickup.

Red/Black, which connects to an extension harness Black/Red to coil "positive".
Black/White, which connects to an extension harness Black/White to coil "negative".
Black, which connects to White/Yellow (old ballast wire) for Ignition.

The above is the current configuration...What would need to be changed to be able to reverse the polarity for a negative earth(grounding).

Thanks,

Brewer.





.

Commando wiring diagram with Boyer and negative ground.

http://www.oldbritts.com/simp_wd.html

Thank you Jim C,

I am a little bit confused......
So as I am running a Lucas Rita electronic ignition system. do I need to reverse the current phase on the coils to be able to convert to a negative earthing system???

eg... "reverse this original wiring" Red/Black, which connects to an extension harness Black/Red to coil "positive".
Black/White, which connects to an extension harness Black/White to coil "negative".

Brewer.

My first post, ya. Forgive me if this is long-winded, but I went through so much grief with a rectifier, I thought I could save someone else some trouble.
Brewer: IMO, you should re-consider changing the bike to negative earth, dump the lawnmower piece, and get a unit like Podtronics that you know will work.
I have only limited experience (installed a new harness on my '74 850) but I want to share some test results obtained with a DMM and a new Podtronics rectifier.
DMM leads are in the normal position: black lead to the COM plug, red just above that. (BTW, you can get a new DMM at Harbor Freight for $3or $4 now)
DMM set to the oddball "diode test" position. Reading are millivolts.
Single-phase rect. with one red (ground) one black (hot) and 2 Yellows-
Yellows are interchangable and rectifier is off the bike.
Red test lead to red rect. wire and black lead to either Yellow: No value.
Black lead to red rect. wire & red to either Yellow: About 520
Red lead to red wire and black to black: No value
Black lead to red wire and and red lead to black wire: about 1160
Red lead to either yellow and black lead to the other yellow: No reading.
If you are getting readings when you shouldn't, the recitfier is a goner, like my old one was. Hope this helps someone-

Ok! thanks Mr Rick.... for that advice and info.
I will keep that information aside. I appreciate that and I am sure other Nortoners will too!
It still, does not anwser the question that I asked before though.

Brewer

Click to expand...

"Oops"! here is the proper quote!

[So as I am running a Lucas Rita electronic ignition system. do I need to reverse the current phase on the coils to be able to convert to a negative earthing system???

eg... "reverse this original wiring" Red/Black, which connects to an extension harness Black/Red to coil "positive".
Black/White, which connects to an extension harness Black/White to coil "negative".
][/quote]

To run Lucas Rita kits on negative ground systems:

a) Instead of having black wire coming from AB11 amplifier connected to a 12V negative power feed wire as in RITA diagram, this black wire should be grounded.

b) Instead of coil positive terminal being connected to ground as in RITA diagram, this positive coil terminal should connect to 12V positive power feed from switch.

c) All other connections in diagram remain the same.

A copy of the original diagram available here:

http://www.britcycle.com/Manuals/333100RitaInst.pdf

Thanks Ron L.

Ron L,
On the last advice from you.

Correct me please... if I am wrong.

The wiring colour code on my lucas AB 11 is a little different from that diagram that you provided.

a) Instead of having black wire coming from AB11 amplifier connected to a 12V negative power feed wire as in RITA diagram, this black wire should be grounded.
"This is the wire which is currently connected to the old, ballast white/ yellow wire?" and this should now become earthed.


b) Instead of coil positive terminal being connected to ground as in RITA diagram, this positive coil terminal should connect to 12V positive power feed from switch.

So this wire should now be connected to the old ballast white/ yellow wire? instead?????"

And the black/green wire which is currently connected to the coil negative, shall be changed... to be connected to the coil positive?

Is that correct.

Brewer.

Do you have the old style RITA with the external resistor? I have one of those out in the shop, but I can't get to it at the moment (at work). Do not bypass this resistor.

You should locate the feed wire from the Norton harness. It should be white, white/blue, or white/yellow depending on the year and connected to a wire from the RITA harness. (white/yellow?). You can test it by disconnecting it and turning on the key and checking for voltage when the key is in run position. This is the bike's harness, not the RITA wirinng. Now locate the positive terminal of the coil that has the wire connected to the RITA harness and has a ground wire connected. (The other coil should simply have a jumper from the positive terminal to the negative terminal of the other coil). Remove the ground wire connection but do not remove the connection to the RITA amplifier. Now make a connection from the feed wire you just located in your Norton harness (white, white/blue, or white/yellow) that was previously connected to the RITA amplifier. You will probably need to splice in a length of wire. Now the positive terminal of that coil should have a wire from the RITA amplifier and a wire leading to the keyswitch/kill button.

You now have the wire from the RITA harness that you previously removed from the Norton harness feed wire. This wire should be grounded. If memory serves me this is white/yellow on the old RITA harness. Nevertheless it is the only connection that originally is connected to your Norton harness.

Do not disturb any wires connected to the negative terminals of the ignition coils.

I hope I've made this clearer, but I'm not sure I have. Basically you are unplugging the feed wire and connecting it to the positive coil terminal. Remove the ground wire from this same coil terminal. And finally grounding the wire on the RITA you just unplugged.

I'll try to get out to the shop tonight and verify wire colors on the old style RITA harness.