Shouldn't have ran to begin with!

Joined
Aug 23, 2013
Messages
3
Hello all, I'm new here.

I'm rebuilding what was supposed to be a solid running engine (didn't run for long without making bad noises), and has turned out to be quite the hodgepodge of parts. I have a Set of P11 cases with a 750 commando crank (which is going in a featherbed, I know I'll be asking for balance advice also), the heads seem to be workable (the Letter "A" is stamped under the exhaust side), a set of wiped out lifters and fairly peaked looking profile cam also very galled up looking, and a stock bore 750 jug that has cracks running up the walls from the corners of the rod relief cut-aways, and a burnt up set of the hepoflex pistons with the BAD oil grooves that the company advises against enthusiastic riding with.
I'm a machinist by trade and should be able to handle whatever needs to be done, but I better ask a few questions before I waste time and money.......

*can I bore the entire sleeve area out and press in a new liner without compromising the integrity of the lifter bores, since that's all integrated into the casting....or am I looking for a new cylinder all together?

*I have some BSA cam followers laying around, will their radius work with a JS Stage 2 cam?

*Is it a good idea to run the superblend main's with the commando crank and older style cases?

*I know there's a ton of info on balance factors on here and on Jims JS page, but does anyone have any experience with the commando crank in the older style cases being rigid mount?

Any Help Would Be Great, Thank You! ........as soon as I get this site figured out, I'll upload some pictures of some of my machine work that I've done so far on the engine and some dress up items. Rex
 
" Is it a good idea to run the superblend main's with the commando crank and older style cases "

Is a GOOD IDEA with ANY crank or Cases , on the Norton Twin , and a few other things . Sort of a sperical joint self aligning whip accomodateing set up .

What they used to do was throw in a 650 flywheel on the Commando throws , for a F'bed . or just chop the missing bits out . carefully , & symetrically , mass wise .

Ive been thinking chewing a bit of the Commando flywheels the way . As the balance factor gets it smooth at a certain rpm & otherwise at other revs , its tuneable a bit .

But glareing at a few pre Iso Flywheels , would get a idea of whats about right . THIS will LIGHTEN the Flywheel , as it could do with looseing av pound or two ,
youll get that too . Ive seen a few coustoms where theyve left it at the standard flywheel mounted ridgid . Do a bit of a search on cranks / flywheels & balance factor .
As you have to suck it to see , all the arithmatics just establishing figures , and not the meaning of the universe .
New Rod Bolts ( good ones ) and Crank Bolts are the issue .
 
If you fill the hole in the 850 crank with a threaded steel plug, the balance factor is great for a rigidly mounted motor at about 6000 to 7000 RPM.
 
Sounds like most of these questions should be addressed to JS.
He sometimes drops in here, but more on the Commando page.

Its a good idea to run superblends in any Norton twin.
Some even apply it to the 500cc beasties as roadbikes, although its hard to see much immediate benefit from this ?
Other than knowing you have fitted the best. In theory they should go a long way, but no-one seems to report this.
Maybe they are still all out riding the wheels off them to find out ?
 
Thanks for taking a look at my post guys! I was figuring I'd be adding a bit of weight if anything to the flywheel from what I've been reading about putting a comm crank in a rigid frame. Hopefully Jim get's a look at this at some point...I don't want to be pesky and move this whole thing over to the commando section haha.
 
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