Shorai battery amp hour ratings

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Fast Eddie

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I know this has been discussed in various threads before, but I‘m hoping to clarify something here.

There are many advantages to Li batteries, ke low weight and high cranking amps. But the real amp hour rating is an issue. Or at least I believe it is.

I’m trying to work out how viable they are for use on a total loss ignition system. Shorai used to show clearly the ‘real’ amp hour rating, which was a lot less than their ‘equivalent’ amp hour rating.

I checked their web site today and just found a load of confusing blurb. Can anyone shed any light on how to ascertain their real amp hour capability ?
 
No idea re an actual answer of amp hours. However, my Shorai 18AH ran my Norton Commando for a bit over 50 miles back home when the alternator rotor exploded on a ride. After replacing the rotor, re-connecting everything, the battery, without benefit of re charging, started the bike (Alton E-start) with no trouble.
 
Pbeq rating divided by 3 = storage ah for Li batteries.

So the 18 LFX is about 6 ah capacity.

Shorai and most of the other manufacturers have removed that info from their websites.

Glen
 
Pbeq rating divided by 3 = storage ah for Li batteries.

So the 18 LFX is about 6 ah capacity.

Shorai and most of the other manufacturers have removed that info from their websites.

Glen
Thanks Glen, I thought it was that kinda ball park.

I think 6ah is probably one track day. So that’s doable, I just take two batteries for a weekend.

Any advice from anyone on the best / lightest 6ah none Li battery to compare against Li ?
 
Interspan estimates about 2 to 3 hrs of roadracing with their system deadloss on a 4.5 ah NiMh, just to give some idea of AH vs run time.

 
off topic:

I typed "kick starting a Norton 920" into google. That was one funny video when your daughter started talking. "Shut up"

Are you going to roller start the track bike, or will it be smaller displacement than 920?

Good luck with the battery. This would probably work if you want amp hours to drive EI-> ATX-12-AH Different sticker on the side though. Half the weight of gel.
 
Confusing subject just thinking out loud.

In theory, 6 amp hours used on a race bike needing 2 amps to run should last 3 hours. Running a starter at 120 amps with a 6 amp hour battery should last about 3 minutes.

However, I installed a cNw starter on a bike with the 14 LFX battery installed. The bike had sat a long time and I did not charge the battery. A broken wire to the coils caused it not to start and once that was fixed, clogged carbs still caused it not to run. I used the starter MANY times without recharging. I think the battery was marked as 3.5 "real" amp hours.

I think that LI batteries recover. I'm guessing that it you draw 6 amps from a 18 LFX for one hour it will be about done, but if you draw 6 amps for an hour total but in 5-minute periods with 5-minute rest periods that you'll get 3 hours (all roughly)
 
Any advice from anyone on the best / lightest 6ah none Li battery to compare against Li ?
Braille is one of the better small battery manufacturers (in the US). 3 kgs is their lightest AGM but has 10AH

 
I’ve been using a 4 cell Antigravity LiFePO4 on a racing Commando for the last 5 years. It gets a charge between races, so it’s only running the bike for about 20 to 30 minutes at a time. According to the label it’s rated at 2.5ah (6Ah PbEq), but my charger only gets it up to, maybe, 70% charge. It works well for me. Small enough to be hidden away, out of sight under the production racer style seat hump, and easier to keep alive compared to a lead acid battery used in the same way.

Not specifically automotive, but this is a great article on LiFePO4….

 
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i used a shorai total loss on an LSR machine. ran a pazon all day easily, but that venue only runs the motor for five minutes a dozen times a day. i charged overnight. for that style of racing a lithium iron battery is perfect.

ive been running a magneto on it lately, but im putting an EI on it again so the shorai is coming back.
 
i used a shorai total loss on an LSR machine. ran a pazon all day easily, but that venue only runs the motor for five minutes a dozen times a day. i charged overnight. for that style of racing a lithium iron battery is perfect.

ive been running a magneto on it lately, but im putting an EI on it again so the shorai is coming back.
Why are you going back to EI from the mag?
 
its an ancient ARD setup on a triumph, with an original fairbanks morse magneto and forked diode plug wires for a twin plug ignition. the magneto produces four killer sparks every 360 but the spark timing has about 4 degrees of scatter, both because of the belt drive and the primitive mag unit.

im struggling to go any faster than i am already so im hoping to trade the simplicity of the magneto for more precise timing.

thats the plan anyway. otherwise i love the ARD. simple and foolproof, almost
 
The 4 cell Antigravity battery mentioned by ggryder is the smallest about the size of a wallet, and what I run on a street bike. Personally, I'd probably go with an 8 cell Antigravity battery on a total loss system, and charge it between races/track sessions. The 4 cell charges up very quickly with a good charger. I don't know about the 8 cell. But I would imagine it might last longer because it would not discharge as much during a short race or track session. LiFePO4 does not like being discharged much below 11V. I linked to the 12 cell Antigravity because it would work easily, but would weigh a little more.

Do all you racers take a small generator to the races, or do the track venues other than the salt flats provide power?
 
Or you could bring a deep discharge battery and a small inverter. Plug the special lithium battery charger into one of the 110 v outlets on the inverter.
I run a TV and VCR from a 12 battery and small inverter at our remote off grid cabin. I've also run many other small 110 volt electrical appliances on it.
We charge the batteries with solar when they need it.

Glen
Amazon product ASIN B004MDXS0U
 
Or you could bring a deep discharge battery and a small inverter. Plug the special lithium battery charger into one of the 110 v outlets on the inverter.
I run a TV and VCR from a 12 battery and small inverter at our remote off grid cabin. I've also run many other small 110 volt electrical appliances on it.
We charge the batteries with solar when they need it.

Glen
Amazon product ASIN B004MDXS0U
Now you’re talking Glen, that’s a great tip !
 
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