Shindengen SH775 (2018)

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Triton Thrasher said:
That’ll be a shunt type, won’t it?



I get the impression that the people here who are into Shindengen regs want series regulation.

Edit: I Googled and the SH775 is series type.
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Yes that's how I understand it
 
baz said:
I'm a complete dunce when it comes to these
Is the trispark one equivalent to the shindengen?
Click to expand...
No. The Tri-spark has a much smaller foot print than the Shindengen and it is not designed for LiFePO4 batteries. IMO the Tri-Spark is superior to a Boyer reg/rect for a lead acid or AGM battery. MOSFET circuitry, runs cooler, and regulates voltage very consistently. I'm using the Tri-Spark.

Is your interest in the Shindengen because you are planning on using a LiFePO4 battery?
 
Schwany said:
No. The Tri-spark has a much smaller foot print than the Shindengen and it is not designed for LiFePO4 batteries. IMO the Tri-Spark is superior to a Boyer reg/rect for a lead acid or AGM battery. MOSFET circuitry, runs cooler, and regulates voltage very consistently. I'm using the Tri-Spark.

Is your interest in the Shindengen because you are planning on using a LiFePO4 battery?
Click to expand...
My interest was because I thought my podtronics reg/rectifier was packing up and I thought if I replaced it I would upgrade
I know people fit shendengen units to modern triumphs etc and people are calling them the "stator saver"
As I said I don't understand electronics very well so most of what I say will be wrong
I have an Alton electric start on my bike with the 150w alternator
When tested open circuit ac voltage at the alternator is 20v at 2000rpm and 36v at 4000rpm so I'm guessing no problems there?
With the podtronics connected I'm just about getting 12.5v at the battery no matter how many revs
Also it's around 11.5 with the lights on and around 12v if revved with the lights on
I have an odessy pc680 battery fitted and ride with lights on (LEDs) all the time
The battery is showing around 12.4 at rest
I will fully charge it and see what it sits at
The battery is less than two years old
I have tried to test the output from the podtronics unit while it's disconnected from the battery but the results are all over the place with my meter
I have also tried fitting a known good Honda reg/rectifier with the same results as the podtronics
Could it simply be a bad battery? Would a bad battery stop the voltage getting above 12.5v when revved?
Sorry for dumb questions
Cheers
 
baz said:
Could it simply be a bad battery? Would a bad battery stop the voltage getting above 12.5v when revved?
Click to expand...
No. Only if it had a bad cell, but then you wouldn't see 12.4 at rest.
 
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Triton Thrasher said:
That’ll be a shunt type, won’t it?



I get the impression that the people here who are into Shindengen regs want series regulation.

Edit: I Googled and the SH775 is series type.
Click to expand...
I'm using the Shindengen FH020AA which is a MOSFET shunt regulator, on a 3 phase Sparx alternator. I get 14.5 volts at 2000 RPM with lights off and it keeps my LiFe battery happy with normal riding and LED lights on. I like it because it's heavy duty (35 amps, 50 amps peak) and runs cool. The Schottky barrier diodes in it's rectifier have half the forward voltage drop of silicon diodes so you get more voltage at low RPM. I have accidentally shorted it's output for a brief time and it survived, unlike the Sparx unit that I had before.

They're big, and not cheap.
 
baz said:
My interest was because I thought my podtronics reg/rectifier was packing up and I thought if I replaced it I would upgrade
I know people fit shendengen units to modern triumphs etc and people are calling them the "stator saver"
As I said I don't understand electronics very well so most of what I say will be wrong
I have an Alton electric start on my bike with the 150w alternator
When tested open circuit ac voltage at the alternator is 20v at 2000rpm and 36v at 4000rpm so I'm guessing no problems there?
With the podtronics connected I'm just about getting 12.5v at the battery no matter how many revs
Also it's around 11.5 with the lights on and around 12v if revved with the lights on
I have an odessy pc680 battery fitted and ride with lights on (LEDs) all the time
The battery is showing around 12.4 at rest
I will fully charge it and see what it sits at
The battery is less than two years old
I have tried to test the output from the podtronics unit while it's disconnected from the battery but the results are all over the place with my meter
I have also tried fitting a known good Honda reg/rectifier with the same results as the podtronics
Could it simply be a bad battery? Would a bad battery stop the voltage getting above 12.5v when revved?
Sorry for dumb questions
Cheers
Click to expand...

I don't consider the question dumb. Its just a question.

The Tri-Spark shown is a good regulator rectifier. I use it on a LiFePO4 battery. My resting voltage is 13.6V. Idle voltage is 14.4-14.5V and doesn't rise more at high RPM. I run an old 2 wire alternator. 116-120w, not sure though. Voltage drop is insignificant on my setup. Resting with lights on is 13.44V. My wiring is nothing like a electric start Commando though, so probably doesn't mean much. I replaced the PODtronics reg/rect with the Tri-Spark, and would never go back.

Story: I was seeing similar low voltage with no significant rise at higher RPM and it turned out to be one of the wires off the alternator was about to go dead short. It finally did and 14 inches of it went up in smoke along with one leg on the PODtronics reg/rect battery eliminator. Did not kill the stator though. The short did not burn all the way back to the stator before I shut off the bike. I was really lucky that it happened in my garage and not 50 miles from home. True story.

Maybe look for a frayed or pinched wire. PITA, but could save you from a bad day.

You can do a static test of the PODtronics to see if it has a dead leg. Search here or google it. Really simple. Unfortunately I don't keep procedures like that in my head. I can barely remember what I did 15 minutes ago. ;)
 
I have that blue MOSFET Tri-Spark pictured above.

It charges well, and everyone says it's better than the old unit.

However
  1. it's not suitable for a lithium battery - Tri-Spark confirmed this
  2. although the unit runs cool, the alternator runs red hot - they don't cover that on their site or video

I can't stop thinking about the second point when i'm out, and I'm thinking about taking it off.
 
gforce said:
I have that blue MOSFET Tri-Spark pictured above.

It charges well, and everyone says it's better than the old unit.

However
  1. it's not suitable for a lithium battery - Tri-Spark confirmed this
  2. although the unit runs cool, the alternator runs red hot - they don't cover that on their site or video

I can't stop thinking about the second point when i'm out, and I'm thinking about taking it off.
Click to expand...
How hot is red hot? How did you establish it runs hotter with the trispark unit?
Cheers
 
I bought a new RM21 stator and rotor (both 'genuine lucas') when I had trouble with my PODtronics failing.
At the same time, I went for the Tri-Spark MOSFET instead of buying another POD.

I ran with the primary cover off for a bit so I could keep an eye on the spacing of the stator and rotor (belt drive makes it easy to do that)
That's when I found that I could feel the alternator getting really hot, too hot to touch the green plastic after just a short run.

I tried unplugging the stator and riding the bike (so on battery only) and the alternator felt cool to the touch - just the metal frame was hot, which I assume was from engine heat.
I didn't change anything else between these tests.

...and that has made me uncomfortable ever since.
I have been looking for an original zener, and recently found one (two actually) so am going to put one back on the bike.
 
Just been checking the bike again
I left the battery overnight on an optimate charger and when disconnected the battery sat at approximately 13.3 v when I started the engine it idled at around 13v and when revved went to about 14.4 max
With the lights on it was just over 12v at idle and around 13v when revved
But not being completely content with this I was cleaning up the terminals that connect the reg/rectifier to the loom and I accidentally crossed the wires over!!!
There was a short spark and now the podtronics unit is dead!!! (Complete senior moment)
So I tried a Honda reg rectifier that I had before and it's back working again
It looks like I'm asking too much of the Alton alternator to run a power hungry Lucas Rita plus a pair of led daytime running lights?
I'll have to total up what the draw is
I've no Idea what the Rita uses but I'm told it's high
 
baz said:
It looks like I'm asking too much of the Alton alternator to run a power hungry Lucas Rita plus a pair of led daytime running lights?
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There have been reports here that the Alton alternators sometimes lose their magnetism and produce low voltage. Is there a test procedure for checking that?
 
gforce said:
I bought a new RM21 stator and rotor (both 'genuine lucas') when I had trouble with my PODtronics failing.
At the same time, I went for the Tri-Spark MOSFET instead of buying another POD.

I ran with the primary cover off for a bit so I could keep an eye on the spacing of the stator and rotor (belt drive makes it easy to do that)
That's when I found that I could feel the alternator getting really hot, too hot to touch the green plastic after just a short run.

I tried unplugging the stator and riding the bike (so on battery only) and the alternator felt cool to the touch - just the metal frame was hot, which I assume was from engine heat.
I didn't change anything else between these tests.

...and that has made me uncomfortable ever since.
I have been looking for an original zener, and recently found one (two actually) so am going to put one back on the bike.
Click to expand...
I could be wrong, but doesn't generating electricity cause heat in an alternator? The stator is bound to be cooler running no load with the outer primary cover removed. Maybe try the red hot stator test after you swap out the Tri-Spark reg/rect and see if anything changes.

I was going to remove the comment because it may still be generating something disconnected, but thought Id leave it since I'm not an electrical engineer, and don't feel like googling the answer.
 
Last edited:
One thing I forgot to add to my post is that I also have an 8-48v in 12v out inverter fitted to my Lucas Rita to ensure 12v at the CDI when I press the starter button
I assume this must also use some watts as it is heavily finned?
I have disconnected it for now and the bike starts right up with or without it
Cheers
 
@Schwany yes, i'm no expert but I've got it stuck in my head, and I am always worried about it failing when i'm out now.

I have nothing to compare with, as the bike came with a POD, and I didn't start digging into it until after it had failed on me.

But, I will for sure do the same check when I put the zener on - I am a big fan of data, and where possible only changing one thing at a time.


Anyway, the reason I commented in the first place but forgot to say was that I believe the SH775 is different to the Tri-Spark MOSFET, so not a comparable alternative.
These are used on big Polaris ATVS that have big lightbars and winches as options - so the charging rate varies a lot.
They use fixed magnet alternators because they are more efficient, so the SH775 takes the load off when the batteries are charged, instead of shunting.

The MOSFET doesn't do that - so stick with the SH775 if that's what you're looking for.
I should have bought the SH775 instead of the Tri-Spark, as the more I read about it, the more it looks like a better option.
But they are both expensive, so I'm not going to get another one now.
...my two zeners were less than ten dollars for the pair shipped.
 
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