Shifting better

Good weather today, so made a short run, I had some trouble with shifting and the clutch last time, so I loosened up the primary chain a bit, found the clutch cable may have stretched a bit and wasn't pulling the clutch basket all the way over, so adjusted that and on the run today, it's shifting better than ever, easy to find N, stiffness from 4th to 3rd has disappeared. Snicks right into all gears.

Trouble is now my clutch cable adjuster is nearly all the way out of the lever. I'm not thrilled with that. Any way to shorten that up outside of cutting the cable and installing the cable end shorter? I'm thinking I'm going to get the shim kit from OB for the clutch pack and that may help.

I tried pv's headsteady tightening sequence, but it didn't make any difference, but I've got the original headsteady. Can't wait to get the Hemmings adjusters and fight that.

It's scaring me, running so good, I even went up and down THE hill today, we had some rain so the ground tightened up a bit.

Must be Margaretta time.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Trouble is now my clutch cable adjuster is nearly all the way out of the lever. I'm not thrilled with that. Any way to shorten that up outside of cutting the cable and installing the cable end shorter?

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Have you checked the clutch pushrod adjustment? The 'book' pushrod adjuster setting of "1 turn out" is usually too much.

Hi Dave, I was reading your post and I have some problems on easily finding the Neutral: do you think it might be useful to loosen the primary chain also for me?

Yeah, I've found that about 1/3 to 1/4 turn on the adjuster for the rod is plenty for mine. It's always been that way, I suppose I should check it though, it's funny it went out of adjustment so fast.

Lorenzo, yes, hobot is the one that maintains that most gearbox problems are a too tight primary. There's a good proceedure you need to go through with the drive chain too, I'll see if I can find it, it was posted recently. It's sure worth a try and it keeps from grinding down your bushings.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Yeah, I've found that about 1/3 to 1/4 turn on the adjuster for the rod is plenty for mine. It's always been that way, I suppose I should check it though, it's funny it went out of adjustment so fast.

Lorenzo, yes, hobot is the one that maintains that most gearbox problems are a too tight primary. There's a good proceedure you need to go through with the drive chain too, I'll see if I can find it, it was posted recently. It's sure worth a try and it keeps from grinding down your bushings.

Dave
69S

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thank you Dave! that would be fantastic.. ;o)

"when you adjust, over tighten the primary chain, then use the adjuster to pull the gearbox forward to loosen the chain, then tighten the gearbox bolts to hold it all in that position. then you can adjust your final drive chain. Adjusting in this way, the adjuster bolt holds the gearbox from being pulled backwards by whip or snatch in the final drive chain, which then tightens the primary chain."

I didn't write down who sent this in, but it was recent and it makes a lot of sense to me. As hobot says too, it's better loose than too tight.

I checked my rod and the diaphragm adjuster stud and all seems fine. I just don't know why I now have only about 3 threads of the cable adjuster into the clutch lever. It sure is shifting a lot better though. I may have to shorten the cable unless I find something else.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

I tried pv's headsteady tightening sequence, but it didn't make any difference, but I've got the original headsteady. Can't wait to get the Hemmings adjusters and fight that.

Dave
69S

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Sounds like you had a good day.

Just to be clear here, this is neither MY sequence, protocol, or procedure. I read it somewhere and have always used it as it makes perfect sense. I am sure others have read this at the same place i have.
That being said, I am happy to bring to the attention of many who were not aware.

Thanks for the credit just the same.

Well, some of my problem is that my old clutch body has about 3/8" cut off the end with the threads in it, I remember I did that because it was bunged up. Luckily I found the parts at DomiRacer and are ordered. It's hard to find those old lever parts, I bought parts for the brake lever all over 4 or 5 different places. I'm still wondering why it went out of adjustment like that though unless something is just settling in. I had a good look at the lever to rod clearance and that's good.

Unfortunately today is a real nice day and the temp crown came off and I bit it in half so I'm going to be in the dentist's chair today. Dang, I was going to take a long trip and see how much I could handle. Maybe tomorrow if it doesn't get to hot or humid.

Dave
69S

As DogT says, you have to tighten the chain, then LOOSEN it to the play that you want. You can't TIGHTEN it to the play that you want. Norton does not make this clear enough in its literature, which has caused a lot of grief.

I've always found it difficult to measure the total up-and-down play of the chain, because you have to wiggle the chain up and down somehow and also measure how much it's moving, all through a small hole. An easier way is to measure a tight chain compared to a slack chain, since this is half the total up-and-down play. To do this, make two marks 3/16" apart [not 3/8"] on the end of a stick or piece of paper. Then put the bike on the centerstand and the gearbox in 4th, and lie on the ground next to the primary.

Now, if you move the rear tire in the forward direction with your foot, the bottom of the chain tightens and you get all the slack on top. If you move the rear tire in the backward direction, all the slack is on the bottom and the top is tight. So pick out some feature on the chain (top of link, bottom of link, rivet, etc.) , and compare it to the two marks as you move the wheel back and forth. You can easily see how much it's moving compared with the two marks and loosen the chain appropriately. (BUT DON'T OVERSHOOT! If you get it TOO loose, you have to tighten it and start all over again).

Once the tight chain/slack chain play is 3/16", you know the total up and down play is 3/8". I also try to check it later when the engine is really hot. You can do this at the side of the road, and there should be at least SOME play then, or it needs to be a little looser.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@verizon.net

Thanks for that procedure. Actually the handbook says to tighten it dead tight and then slack off to get the 3/8" total play. So it is in there, it's just not explained why, or perhaps not emphasized enough, however the last sentence says it is 'important that these instructions to over tighten and then slack off are carefully followed.' It sure has made my gear box easier going through the gear and finding N though.

Dave
69S

There are several available lengths of cable adjuster for the lever end, I keep a couple of each handy as spares and swap 'em as needed from bike to bike. Sounds like you need a longer one.

So dave, how many miles now ?.

13444 minus 13175 at rebuild, so 269 miles. I know, I know you probably do that on one trip. But I'm about to do a long one, I would have today if I hadn't broken my root canal crown and had to go in this afternoon. I'll see what tomorrow's like. My fear factor is not like I'm 20 any more and it takes a lot of gumption and self persuasion just to get on this brute. Once I'm on the road though, it's good. I started it the other day with just my Crocks on. Confidence is growing for both of us.

Sept and Oct will have some very nice days. Sometimes even into Nov, I remember riding up from central Virginia to home one Thanksgiving (last Thurs in Nov) with the convertible top down. We've even had 70°F Christmas's in the past, but usually by the time Dec comes around it's in the 40's. That's OK to work in, but not ride for me.

How many miles for you Josh?

Dave
69S

540 thus far, no issues other than the oil into the primary, about to fit the anti wet sump valve.

Josh, I'd still like to know what that sumping issue is. Mine sumps in about 2 days and I just start it and no problems. Did you discover it because the clutch was slipping, there was too much oil in the primary?

Dave
69S

Hi Dave,

The clutch was slipping which was due to high oil.

I am not worried about the wet sumping, I wish to stop the oil flowing across.

I'm just not sleepy so review my list I've read of or done.
Not filling to level manual or sight-over flow plug indicates is a constant given no matter what else below.
1. pack rod with heavy grease.
2. Grind a drip waist in rod near the DS end.
3. Cut a gap out near DS end and stick a ball bearing in for oil to drip off, mostly, before clutch.
4. Fit Dynodave's clutch end seal
5. Don't leave on side stand long.

Hobot,

The oil is coming from the sump of the engine, there are not too many things that can cause the leak.

I have been waiting for a new seal to arrive, which arrived today, will fit it on friday.

If you only have 3 threads left on your clutch cable adjuster, it's probably time to replace your stretched clutch cable with a new one.

It's a brand new cable, and like I said, I've whacked off about 3/8-1/2" from the clutch body end where the adjuster goes in. I found a new (repop?) clutch body and we'll see what happens then. If nothing else, I can always shorten the cable or get a custom one made from Venhill, that may help the clutch action anyhow, not that it's bad now.

Dave
69S