Shift Quadrant Question

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phillyskip

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Is the top of the shift quadrant arm supposed to be even with the top of the right hand stud OR is the center of the top portion on center line with the stud. Haynes shows it one way, Clymer shows it another. Someone is one tooth off sequence. Thanks,Phillyskip
 
It's not so much one tooth difference as it is the range of motion allowed within the correct alignment.

I seem to recall it's the edge of the lip of the socket that aligns with the stud...
 
I can't double-check the wording right now, because my laptop is flaked and I'm using Sally's to check the forums & e-mail. All my Kim the CD Man discs reside on my laptop for ease of searching.
 
Fit the cam plate and quadrant then before fitting rest of internals temporarily slot on the inner cover.
Now you can check that as you move the quadrant with a screwdriver that the cam clicks through all four gear and dont forget neutral to.
So you should feel 5 clicks of the cam plate without the quadrant arm hitting the edges of the slot in the cover. If it does remove camplate adjust its position an try again.
Different parts may line up slightly differently due to manufacturing tolerance so this is best way to be sure before you get all the box back together then find you have only 3 gears.
 
phillyskip said:
Is the top of the shift quadrant arm supposed to be even with the top of the right hand stud OR is the center of the top portion on center line with the stud. Haynes shows it one way, Clymer shows it another. Someone is one tooth off sequence. Thanks,Phillyskip
Click to expand...

Believe Old Britts has a good writeup on how it is supposed to align
 
I went to that Old Britts article and it cleared everything up for me. Much better info than either Clymer or Haynes manuals.Thanks for sharing that.
 
Took my bike out after re indexing the gearbox and she's shifting nicely now. Thanks all for your help. Oh.....she's not leaking either!
 
Gald to hear its working now.

It not leaking!!!! Are you sure you put oil in?? :D

Dont worry now you have said that it is sure to start leaking :wink:
 
Gearbox is golden now. Wish I could keep the engine from wet sumping about 14 oz overnight. I said the hell with it and I'm going to put a petcock on the oil line and a reminder on my dash( to turn it on) ,next to my ignition switch.
 
Leaking 14oz overnight? There is something wrong...proberly the pump /gasket ...is the pump worn ..ie excessive end float in the gears?
Or perhaps the sump is not returning in the first place? What ever, the amount of oil in the sump standing over-night is way to much.
I like straight 40's..oop's another oil debate :lol:


phillyskip said:
Gearbox is golden now. Wish I could keep the engine from wet sumping about 14 oz overnight. I said the hell with it and I'm going to put a petcock on the oil line and a reminder on my dash( to turn it on) ,next to my ignition switch.
Click to expand...
 
I to would say look at the pump to see what going on.
My engine has a pump that is like new an it doesn't wet sump but I fitted a valve just for piece of mind when it stands for more than few days. Its from John Epp an has built in switch to kill the ignition system if its not turned on so I have also piece of mind about not forgetting to turn it on. (just advice not wishing to hijack your thread)
 
phillyskip said:
Gearbox is golden now. Wish I could keep the engine from wet sumping about 14 oz overnight. I said the hell with it and I'm going to put a petcock on the oil line and a reminder on my dash( to turn it on) ,next to my ignition switch.
Click to expand...

Remember that 5 to 7 oz. is the normal amount of oil left in the sump after a run and from rundown.
 
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