Rubber connectors

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mikeymike552001

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May 22, 2005
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Hi
Can anybody give me some advice on what in theory should be a simple job? I’ve spent the last hour or so trying to replace the rubber connectors between the black air filter housing and the carbs on my Mk three.
Fitting one is easy because you can get all the way around it, but how do you get the second one fitted into the air box and onto the carb with such limited access?
I’ve given it up for tonight before I push the bike to the bottom of the garden and set fire to it!!!!
By the way I purchased two new genuine Andover Norton rubber connectors via Norvil one is perfect and the other is such a bad moulding that there is no point at all trying to fit it and I’ve thrown it in the bin.
Is this indicative of the sort of “quality control” we can expect from the new owner of Andover Norton from now on?
 
mikeymike552001 said:
one is perfect and the other is such a bad moulding that there is no point at all trying to fit it and I’ve thrown it in the bin.
Is this indicative of the sort of “quality control” we can expect from the new owner of Andover Norton from now on?
Click to expand...

But if we don't make them aware of these problems and keep on doing so, then nothing is likely to change?

I believe it is up to ALL of us to complain if parts are clearly substandard and not fit for purpose, so please fish that part out of the bin and send it back to Norvil if they ask for it back, and if they don't want to know, then send it to Andover Norton as an example of what one of their parts suppliers is sending out to their customers?
 
That's one of the reasons I'm running a clamp-on K&N filter now, with my original airbox parts collecting dust on the shelf. Before I retired them I found it easier to fit both rubbers onto the plate then offer the plate-wtih-rubbers to the carbs. Worked for me; YMMV.

I guess we should all start speaking up about the poor parts quality. It seems to be getting worse, or at least that's my experience.

Debby
 
K&N way to go

Thats the only reason I run a K&N pod filter. On My MK11 with the metal box theres a metal air baffel welded on the inside of the removable plate. It makes it almost impossible to replace the plate with rubbers attached.
When attaching rubbers last, That 2nd rubber really tests your patience.
K&N pod can be Off and on again in less than a minute
I never tried rubber grease, that may make them easier to install, but a bit messy!
 
You want to prove you're a MAN?

Let's see you remove the plastic airbox on a Mark III with the engine still in place.
 
I usually find that it takes at least one long thin bladed screwdriver. I put the boot over the carb ring first, then with the screwdriver I work the inside lip of the boot out of the hole in the air box and slowly work around the hole pulling the lip out onto the air box plate. When the entire lip is where it belongs, you can rotate the boot so that the flat is on the inside. Lastly, I work the carb end of the boot back toward the air box so the front lip of the boot seats on the carb ring.

It is a b@*#h of a job.
 
I typically set a pot of water to boil, and pull it off the stove as soon as it hints of boiling.

Then, drop the rubbers in there and take the pot out to the shop.

When you go to fiddle them in with a screwdriver, they are nice and soft and slip in easier. This also works for used, somewhat hardened ones.
 
grandpaul said:
You want to prove you're a MAN?

Let's see you remove the plastic airbox on a Mark III with the engine still in place.
Click to expand...

I guess that's not a job for me! :wink: Good thing I don't own any Mk3s (with plastic airbox still present).

Debby
 
Photos, please!

Can someone slip a few photos in here for little old me that never has seen one of the beasts? I have a 72 and the booties have no problems on that setup...so I would like to see what the beef is. Thanks!
 
The std Mk11 filter and rubbers is a real tight fit. Getting the second rubber connector in place takes time & patience.
Rubber connectors

Thats why a K&N pod takes its place on the Twin amals.
Excuse the dusty engine, but I live up a mile of dirt road and the weather being so dry everything is covered in dust.
( ok so I havn't cleaned her in quite a while!!)
 
grandpaul said:
You want to prove you're a MAN?

Let's see you remove the plastic airbox on a Mark III with the engine still in place.
Click to expand...

Can't be done. They started with the black bladder and welded the frame up round it. When I removed mine, I was down to a bare frame and battery tray and I seem to remember standing on top of it with a sledgehammer :)
 
No snorkels on my 750's airbox plate. The biggest problem I had was with the K&N filter that came installed in the airbox. Getting that filter in and out was almost impossible. That's the main reason I ditched the airbox. I've read the K&N is a little taller than the OEM paper filter.

Wrestling with that snorkel plate doesn't look like fun at all.

GP: thanks for the thought! :)

Debby
 
If you pull the entire engine & tranny out with the tranny chassis, you can JUST slip the airbox out with a little bit of fuss.

Realistically, there's no need to pull it out for regular maintenance.

The other bugger is that it serves as the mount point for the Left sidecover front tab, so I had to fab up a little bracket that is held on by one of the gas tank rear mount bolts.
 
The other bugger is that it serves as the mount point for the Left sidecover front tab, so I had to fab up a little bracket that is held on by one of the gas tank
Click to expand...

Or alternatively add a small bracket to the side cover similar to the '72-'74 side cover and use the earlier style Dzus fastener. (The hole is already in the frame). I actually substituted a spare early style side cover, but the price of steel side covers is getting pretty dear so this isn't always a good option.
 
Ron L said:
The other bugger is that it serves as the mount point for the Left sidecover front tab, so I had to fab up a little bracket that is held on by one of the gas tank
Click to expand...

Or alternatively add a small bracket to the side cover similar to the '72-'74 side cover and use the earlier style Dzus fastener. (The hole is already in the frame). I actually substituted a spare early style side cover, but the price of steel side covers is getting pretty dear so this isn't always a good option.
Click to expand...

I've used both of these options. It's a simple bracket and an unobtrusive mod. Scrap glassfibre panels can supply a steel bracket. I seem to remember that one of the suppliers sells them seperately.

An earlier panel also has the extra tool compartment. I'm afraid to use that as I suspect the weight of the toolkit is what has caused the shortage of left hand panels. The oil tank cover of course can't fall off and get run over :)
 
If you are running the original twin carb setup.......

I found the easiest way to replace the rubbers is to remove the air filter mesh & fliter, you only have to undo the two long bolts.

Then remove the front plate with the rubbers attached, attach the two new rubbers to the carbys now you have a bit of space to work in.
Next, fit the front plate to the new rubbers that you have just fitted to the two carbys. You can then "squash" the plate forward with the rubbers fitted & slide/push the air filter & mesh back in the gap. It is a tight fit & you need to make sure the mesh does not get caught on the rear plate. Do up the bolts & job done.

Some patience is required & maybe a cuppa is required for some jobs :D

OR you get rid of the twin carbs & run a single carb setup. Then a lot of things are much simpler & you can get almost 600 klms from an interstate tank with a new amal carby :idea:
The first parts I ordered for my new 1974 850 were a new single carb manifold, a new amal and a new Interstate Seat.

I still need a good complete alternator, may buy new if I can't find a good used one. HINT !
 
Keeping the left-hand side cover on with tools in the compartment can be accomplished by using a wide ty-wrap around the cover bracket for the deuz fastener. Wrap the ty-wrap around the bracket & frame---keeps it nice and tight and haven't ever lost a side cover in over 20 years.
One must be a serious improviser in order to enjoy riding these bikes for long distances and return home with all the parts intact.

Joda
 
Thanks for the photo, that is though an early air box, like mine, but with the snorkle thingies. Never seen those before. Were they part of the original setup or are they some after-market thing? Without those, no problem though, as explained by one of you. Rubbers on the plate, plate in position, fingers from the back, into the inside of rubbers and push and wiggle till the rubbers go over the carb intakes and then push the plate forward, compress rubbers, turn filter mesh sideways and slip in past the primary cover and turn up into position, two screws and done. A Cake Walk.

So now...can somebody still send a photo of this plastic box thing that started the thread? Still never seen one and it's problems...Thanks!
 
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