Rewiring with Mo.Unit Blue

ntst8 · Apr 25, 2018

Some progress at last.
Firstly there has been a firmware update, pop up note on my phone, get in bluetooth range and all is downloaded to the M.Unit in a minute or two. A week later and the m.ride phone app has a corresponding update, including a new on screen look. Hmmm, was only just getting the hang of the original set up.
Before my hiatus the last install was a momentary on button to provide hazard light function. The update does away with the button and provides hazard light function by wiggling the indicator switch back and forth 3 times. So not quite finished and i have some spare wires - must be a Norton. There are other uses the button could be put to, but will come back to that after all is running smoothly. Removing the button has banished the gremlins mentioned earlier - found a single wire strand had escaped a connector and was making contact where it shouldn't have on the back of the switch.
Next will be some testing on the charging system then if all is ok hopefully test riding this weekend.

Thanks for the kill switch suggestion Dave, i do have some relays on the shelf so will keep that one in mind. Will wait a while and see whether motogadget update the software with NO/NC option on the kill switch - doesn't sound too difficult from here.

grandpaul · Oct 29, 2018

I recently installed one my last client build, he supplied the kit.

My wiring diagram wasn't as neat!

ntst8 · Nov 12, 2018

Interesting where time goes to, finally a good shake down run today.
Everything worked perfectly on the run, around 350km, but the battery measured only 12.2V on return (fully charged before we left) so the charging system isn't doing its trick. LED head and taillight on, phone plugged in to the power outlet - not much of a draw. Not a Motogadget issue as there were challenges before the rewire, it is nice to have things to do.

Hi Paul, if it works it was neat enough.

grandpaul · Nov 13, 2018

Are you using the MotoGadget reg/rect? It ties into the MUnit and senses battery voltage to "trigger" itself to charge

ntst8 · Nov 19, 2018

I have been using an AO Services "A Reg One", Alton recommend Podtronics as the best match with their alternator so will test one of those and see if there is any difference.
I wasn't aware of the Motogadget option, will have a search for that.
The MUnit status screen showing system voltage, amperage draw and total watts makes testing easier - don't need 3 hands to rev things up and hold an in line test meter.

grandpaul · Nov 19, 2018

Yeah, the bluetooth is a cool deal these days

ntst8 · Oct 27, 2019

A year later and i am nearly closing this one out, the bike was quite usable as long as the lights weren't used so took a while to get around to it.
The poor charging was a demagnetised rotor on the Alton, replacement now fitted. Hoping to do the 1KC (1000 km cruise - a day ride) in a couple of weeks so as usual the pressure is on.

Scout63 · Oct 29, 2019

Great thread. I think the m unit will be perfect for my Moto Guzzi project coming up. Your wiring diagram is very helpful.

Triton Thrasher · Oct 30, 2019

In any case of low charging, the first thing you test after the battery is alternator output.

If it’s single phase, it can be as simple as connecting a headlight bulb across the two AC wires.

robs ss · Oct 7, 2020

ntst8 said:
I have been having fun with the wiring on my bike on and off for a few years. Finally come to the conclusion recently that pulling out the old loom and doing a bespoke version would be both therapeutic and big step ahead. So Christmas Eve out came the old loom.

View attachment 3672

I happened to look in the Motogadget website at around the same time, after reading some threads on here, and found that they had come out with a new fuse/control box during 2017. Very neat it is and a step ahead of their old unit, setup etc can be via Bluetooth to a smartphone app for instance. I have never been good with temptation so one of these is now about to go in.
View attachment 3673
All handlebar switches are used for earth loop signal continuity only, 12V only goes from the power side of the unit to where it is needed. The unit acts as a relay, flasher relay, etc. It can also do tricks like auto turn the lights on once the engine is running, timed auto stop on the indicators, modulate the brake light etc.

The target is to be up and running again for our annual club rally in March, time will tell.

At present – after much head scratching and then a cardboard mock up I have a support bracket being made to mount the M.Unit and the Alton starter relay.

About to happen – the M.Unit can only run negative earth so the Alton starter needs to be converted. Paul at Alton has been very helpful with an instruction leaflet and general feedback, some dismantling and minor internal alteration is needed but it doesn’t look too daunting.

I have drawn up a wiring diagram, the attached won’t be the final version but is getting close.
View attachment 3674

One thing I have just noticed in the book is that a sidestand switch must be used and linked to the sidestand cutout input. You can chose between Normally Open and Normally Closed for the switch so NC setting and input wired to earth should do the trick.

My workshop pace is usually slow but will update when there is some progress.

Iain
The only wiring diagram appears to be this (Jan 2018) - Is this current or did you update it?
Cheers
Rob

ntst8 · Oct 7, 2020

Hi Rob
I have made some small changes so should post an updated diag.
I deleted the capacitor.
Oil tap is wired to the side stand signal, not in the ignition circuit as drawn.
Speedo/tacho backlights have a momentary switch so they can be off for daytime headlight use.
The momentary hazard switch was removed , a software update gave hazards via the indicator switch.
I have recently asked Madass about his oil pressure switch, intend to have that trigger the red idiot light.
Have fitted a battery status monitor where the toggle light switch used to be in the headlamp shell. Moto gadget have suggested powering that direct from the battery.
when I stop fiddling I’ll tidy things up and repost.
Cheers
Iain

ntst8 · Oct 17, 2020

Have just been reading Grant Tillers "Rewiring the Worlds Straightest Commando" article on his website (granttiller.com), well worth a read for the electrically barely literate such as me. The potential perils of multiple earth connections direct to the battery on an electric start machine is not something i had thought about until now, time to refine my rewiring it seems.

lcrken · Oct 18, 2020

ntst8 said:
Have just been reading Grant Tillers "Rewiring the Worlds Straightest Commando" article on his website (granttiller.com), well worth a read for the electrically barely literate such as me. The potential perils of multiple earth connections direct to the battery on an electric start machine is not something i had thought about until now, time to refine my rewiring it seems.

That is a great site. Thanks for posting the info.

Ken

chaztuna · Dec 1, 2020

ntst8 said:
Have just been reading Grant Tillers "Rewiring the Worlds Straightest Commando" article on his website (granttiller.com), well worth a read for the electrically barely literate such as me. The potential perils of multiple earth connections direct to the battery on an electric start machine is not something i had thought about until now, time to refine my rewiring it seems.

Thought I'd provide the web link for the web page above. A Google search lists the desired page waaaayyyy down the list.

https://granttiller.com/rewiring-the-worlds-straightest-commando

MikeInMass · Nov 28, 2022

nhst8, I am fitting one of these to my MK3, using mo-button, no blue tooth. Instruction manual states Mo-Button MUST be placed within the handlebars, in bold type ! I am using original switchgear, and would like to position the Mo-Button inside the headlamp shell. Can you think or know of any reason why this wouldn't work ? Any help appreciated.

ntst8 · Nov 28, 2022

I haven’t played with a Mo-Button but it looks to hard wire to the controls so I can’t see why it wouldn’t work in the headlamp.

MikeInMass · Dec 10, 2022

ntst8 said:
I haven’t played with a Mo-Button but it looks to hard wire to the controls so I can’t see why it wouldn’t work in the headlamp.

Thank you. I found some info that the button is sensitive to RFI interference, and the handlebar acts as a shield against that. I've seen enough negative comments on the button that I am going to abandon the thought of using it. Right now I'm trying to figure out how to use the KILL function. The kill switch on the MK3 is NC or normally closed. If the white wire in the switch is connected to ground, while in the RUN position, the kill switch will constantly emit a ground signal, shutting down the ignition function on the output side of the unit. Trying to figure out how to generate a ground signal by breaking the circuit as the switch does. Wish me luck, I know just enough about electricity to get myself in trouble !

gortnipper · Dec 10, 2022

I found a suggestion on the Triumph Rat board that led me to the following solution that I used on a NO kill switch with a NO or NC compatible horn relay.

The relay should be wired with power to the coil from the ignition switch. Wire the TriSpark power feed from the Ign Switch, through the NC contacts on the relay, and then to the TS.

1. Connect the Tri-Sparkblack/yellow wire (or whatever other ign you have) to 30 and 87a to ignition coil

The ground connection to the relay coil should be wired thru the kill button, thus completing the circuit.

2. Connect 12v- to 85
3. Connect Kill switch to Earth and 86

When you press the kill button with the ignition on, it should energize the coil in the relay, which will in turn open the normally closed contacts 30 & 87a and remove power from the ignition.

ntst8 · Dec 10, 2022

In my case I am using CNW switchgear, which works opposite to label for the kill switch. Added security feature

I did send motogadget a suggestion of having NO NC options in the software, it would be a simple software change I would have thought. No success on the to date sadly.

gortnipper · Dec 11, 2022

ntst8 said:
In my case I am using CNW switchgear, which works opposite to label for the kill switch. Added security feature
I did send motogadget a suggestion of having NO NC options in the software, it would be a simple software change I would have thought. No success on the to date sadly.

You hooked it up bassackwards? Mine works as labeled. But my security feature is finding he ignition switch...

Rewiring with Mo.Unit Blue

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