Rebuilt carbs, add airfilter:engine dies?????

Fastback,

I removed my chokes, no problems, starts second kick from cold, you say you don't run a battery with your Boyer, have you ever :?:, how does that work :?: I found the best way to check the ignition timing is to grab a mate or a missus, drop the bike off the stand get the other person to straddle the bike, with it in neutral pull in the clutch lever (just in case) wind it out to five grand and it should be sitting on 31 deg. checking it with a timing light. If not you have to adjust it accordingly. It only takes about five minutes.

Good Luck Mike.

Dumb question, where do you aim the timing light at? If timing is incorrect, how do you adjust it??

Fastback

You take the top front plug out of the primary case and it will expose the timing marks and indicator, as you increase the revs the degree advance will change, at 5000 rpm the strobe should be indicating 31 deg. If not you have to remove the points cover (now boyer cover) on the opposite side of the bike and undo the two screws where the slotted holes are and adjust it accordingly depending on whether you have to advance or retard the timing.

Tell me about the battery and the boyer.

Mike

I'd like to know about this batteryless Boyer also.

What about the batteryless boyer?? I dont have a single problem with it. With the float height correct, enabling me to use the ticklers, i can have the bike started in about 2-3 kicks. Sometimes when I am lucky it has started in a little bit less than a full kick.

My starting procedure is: Pull in clutch and kick over to clear the clutch plates. Then, leave ignition off, and kick it over about 4-5 times to get some lubrication spread throughout the motor. Then i tickle, turn on ignition, and start kicking it. A while ago, when I did have a battery in it, the battery got very low, and as we all know, when boyers get low voltage, they retard completely, and that made for some painful kickback, so i just decided to discard the battery, untill i get everything else sorted.

Fastback,

I was curious about how the Boyer went without a Battery, now i know, very interesting :idea: .

Good luck with the bike, keep us informed.

Mike.

OK, to bring every1 up to date, here we go. Float height is now at standard level, .080 thou. Tickles great, starts on 2nd kick from cold, half a kick when warm. I have put in 850 needles (longer than 750), and set at leanest position. Runs pretty good, maybe a bit lean in the mid range, leading me to believe I definetly need all new internals. 106 needle jet, new 750 needle, maybe a 210 main, remember i live in 90 degree weather with 70-80 %humidity. I put in the .25 pilot jets, and it runs pretty good down low, gonna do colourtune after i get new internals. About the batteryless boyer, is it possible that the engine is not getting enough spark, and not burning all the fuel, giving a rich mixture? When i do a spark check, I get nice blueish, purple spark, consistent as well, but with everything else sucking the juice, is it possible its not getting enough spark, just a thought? Set the valves at combat spec, gonna check timing in a few days, couldnt be that far off tho, since it does idle and start up easily. Any other thoughts on what could cause rich mixture? It has to be the worn internal components, yes?


On a different subject: the front disk brake. Had thoughts of getting a clutch lever backing plate(part that bolts to the switch cluster), and taking off all the metal that extrudes, and use that on the back of the stock master cylinder, to retain original switchgear with an aftermarket 11mm master cylinder. Or would it be easier to just get some jap switchgear? I dont know wether the jap gear would wire right up, or would it be lots of time and effort to figure out the wiring? Sorry if i should have started a new thread about this topic, just figured most people would be offended by the thought of ruining something like that.

Fastback,

I would have thought if it was a poor spark you would have a lot of trouble starting the old girl and you say it starts fine, i'd be looking at your cabie innards, so what's the problem with your front brake :?:

Mike

Well, maybe for the seventies the brake was up to par, but not with all the idiots on the road today, you have to be ready for anything at a split seconds notice, you know, that person on the cell phone in their 6000 lbs cage, that doesnt know what the turn signals are for, and/or doesnt check mirrors. I am quite sure my master clylinder needs to be rebuilt, i have already done the caliper. The master cyl. is notchy, and when the system gets hot it starts acting funny. Just figured might as well upgrade. For 50 dollars i can get a new 11mm Nissin master cylinder, which would be quite sufficient i believe. What would your personal opinion be on ruining a clutch lever backing plate and putting on a japanese part? Moorescyclesupply.com is having a 30% discount on everything, bringing that clutch part i want, down to 11 dollars, plus lots of other stuff i need like those new carby internals.

I replaced the old brake hose with a braided one, made a huge difference,
stops real well now.

Mike

well, if i were to get that 11mm nissin, it would help to have an SS braided line, so I guess i could buy the SS line now, and if it improves the braking enough, i wouldnt need the nissin, but i could still buy the nissin if needed. While on this topic, I use valvoline super synthetic DOT 3/4 for my honda CRF250, can this be used in the norton, as of now i just use DOT 3 stuff in the norton, since i wasnt sure if the valvoline stuff woud ruin the norton seals.

Silicon based Dot 5 cannot be mixed with Dot 3 or Dot 4, and your system must be totally cleaned out before you use it, i wouldn't think you would have any trouble with Dot 4 if you are using Dot 3 at the moment.

One of the Gurus may have a better idea.

Mike.

Found on ebay a brand new, goodridge SS hose 28 inches long for 20 dollars. 20 dollars in my opinion is a steal, since norvil wants about 60+. Is 28 inches too long, or what. Mine is a European version, so it has the somewhat low, and slim bars.

I'm not sure i will have to measure mine, i will have to get back to you tomorrow as my bike is not here.

Mike.

Mine's approx. 25" long, my brake hose i mean :wink:

Mike.

Mike, I don't wish to brag but mine is a manly 28"

Skite, i thought i'd won :cry:

Mike

Dont worry Mike, It might be long but it's very thin and wobbly!

OK, gonna order a 26.5 inch hose. Back to carbs, theoretically, if i put in new, stock conponents, the bike should run great, right? I have read about how new fuels flow different than old ones, and that we should jet leaner to compensate, so stick with a 106 needle jet, or 105? 200-210 main? and stock 750 needle? also, the jet holders have no effect on anything do they, i mean if they are old, or new? thanks for the input