Rear Wheel Removal (2011)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 7, 2009
Messages
138
Need a little help here. I'm replacing the rear tire and, obviously removing the rear wheel, something I've done before without any problem. This time I have the axle partially out, right side, but cannot get it to withdraw completely. Its currently out about an inch and a half or more and won't move any further. I've grabbed the nut with a channel locks and smacked the channels with a hammer a bunch of times and can't get it to move any further. There doesn't look to be any way to pry it off either. I've smacked it back in and than pried it out but can't get to go any further.
Such a simple thing. Am I missing something here. 74 Commando.
 
Sounds like there must be rust on the spindle preventing it coming through the bearing, there's nothing else in there, sounds like it's going to be a brute force job!

Dave.
 
+1 daveparry

Spray some penetrating oil in as deep as you can get, then in and out, in and out, more oil, then in and out...Use the least violent method you can to move the axle in and out; you may need the paitence of a Buddist monk. You may want to consider just cutting the axle and then dealing with the remants on the bench and then replacing it with a stainless part.

You have my sympathies and you'll get the"T" shirt after you have removed a frozen swingarm pivot...

RS
 
add to that....

besides the penetrating oil.... I like to use PB Blaster..... make brutal love to it, as in ...back and forth... in... out....in .....out ......in.......out......in .......out
then you might have an "OH BABY" moment, then pull completely out.



JD
 
I had to fight mine the first time I took them out too. Rusty and worn but BP blaster & Force got it out. Replaced them both with stainless before reading here that stainless may be week or brittle.
 
I have 2-3/4" exposed and can move it back and forth, with effort, but can't it any further. I'm going to put a wrench behind the washer and try to pound it with a hammer. See how it goes tomorrow. Such a simple thing.
 
Duct tape on axle with big adjustable wrench on axle up against washer. Enough impact area to drive axle out. Sorry about the silly request for help but I'm trying to put limits on my usual repair work so that I don't fix the same thing twice - the 2nd time being after I break it the 1st time.
 
Well, just finished removing and replacing the rear tire on my 75 MkIII. As I have now come to learn, the shop manual recommended procedure and what actually is doable are often two different things. Had a nail puncture the rear tire, so of course it needed removal for a new tube. Removal wasn't too bad, except I don't see how it is possible for one person to do this with the fender on the bike unless you jack the bike up above center stand height. Even with the wheel tilted as much as possible, I couldn't clear the fender, so I needed to lift the bike another half inch or so while the reluctant assistant (wife) pulled the wheel free.

Replacement was a whole different animal. Took me a couple of hours. Of course had I ignored the shop manual and just done what seemed reasonable, easily could have been done in 20 minutes. I ended up removing the right rear shock completely, and unbolting the caliper so it was completely out of the way. This allows enough room/clearance to slide the wheel in place and get everything lined up without the rotor interfering. But first, after mounting the wheel on the sprocket end, tie it off snugly in place with a strong bungie cord.

I'm sure Norton experts will tell me that I didn't need to do all that, but for those of us who are mechanically "challenged" it sure seemed to work. Like all things Norton, had I known then what I know now, I would have saved a lot of aggravation.
 
Hi spartanman

You can do this on your own, Stand to the left side of the bike and lean it towards you so it rests nicely in your lap. This gives plenty of room to roll the wheel under the mudguard and once there ease the bike back on the center stand. Its a bit of a balancing act but it does work and you don't need to remove the caliper just lift it clear and leave the shock in place. Practice makes perfect.

ELLIS
 
Last edited:
No hammers! It is catching on the edge of some internals. Work the wheel back and forth/ side and back while pulling.
don’t damage stufF. Be patient. It will come.
 
Spartanman has just told us of his recent dilemma, so thread has become current. I have added rubber feet to my centre stand the raise the bike. I used to just rock the bike over one side, add a 1/2" thick pc of wood under leg and do same with other side. The basic design of the stand is shit so as it wears, bike sits lower and lower. Look for my threads on how I fixed both my stands and you will never have problems again.
Dereck
 
One of the best things I brought for my workshop was a motorcycle sissor jack $90au and delivered to my front door and it works so well on my motorcycle lift table, it makes life to much easier and wish I had the sissor jack and lift table a long time ago.

Ashley
 


Edit: Caution.
Whilst leaning the bike over, the front brake must be applied or the bike will attempt to roll forward off the centre stand and collapse so the left hand needs to be on the right handlebar grip holding the brake on. The side stand extended to act as a lean 'stop'.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top