Rear Head Nut Tool

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swooshdave

swooshdave

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I've heard countless tales of grinding down standard wrenches although aren't they also too long to get at the nut when the bike is all together?

The two options I can see are:

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/18702/combination-spanner-1-4-ww-obstruction-?

Rear Head Nut Tool


Which is only $21


or:

https://www.eurojamb.com/products/n...ch-tool-atlas-p11?_pos=3&_sid=7567245d7&_ss=r

Which is $52 but lets you get to the front nuts too.

Rear Head Nut Tool


I was just going to get the one from Eurotrash but I may just get the Andover one.

Has any actually used the King Dick tool and does it work?
 
I used a King Dick on mine - not that one, just a regular combination wrench. It's thinner than my regular wrenches, which wouldn't fit.
 
Careful if you attempt to grind down the outer edge of another brand box-end wrench, if you go too far it will break open if used on a frozen nut (no need to ask how I learned this)
 
I use a 4" long double ended ring spanner. On the end opposite the proper size for the head nut, I welded in a 1/2" (US) hex nut. Then with a 1/2" US socket, I can apply my torque wrench. Keeping the torque wrench at 90 degrees to the ring spanner eliminates a correction factor.

I similarly use a double ended open end spanner, with a 1/2" nut welded midway to torque the cylinder base nuts.

Slick
 
I ground down a socket and drilled a hole through to turn it. Works fine. I don't worry about torquing that one.
 
I expect you'll be at the same price point once you figure in shipping from UK. The EuroJumbalya tool will ship free if you load up the invoice with other stuff ($200+ is shipped free in USA).
 
box wrench set at a right angle on a 1/2" drive torque wrench, allows proper torquing of the nut
 
Just take an ordinary ring spanner and grind a little off
Some spanners fit right on without modification
Torque wrenches are pointless in my opinion on such an old engine unless you have brand new threads into the head, brand new fasteners etc etc etc
 
When the engine is in the bike there’s not a lot of room for a standard spanner. Since I don’t have a 12 pt box end I have to buy something.

I can get to the front nuts with a regular wrench, it’s the back one that’s giving me fits.

Since I needed other stuff from Andover I don’t mind the order. Shipping from them has always seemed reasonable and fast, even to the West Coast (of the US, you dang Aussies!)
 
I ground off a budget ring spanner. But I also bought the AN King Dick (I like having my name on my tools) and it offers more leverage.
 
swooshdave said:
...Since I don’t have a 12 pt box end I have to buy something.
Click to expand...
RIGHT YOU ARE! It HAS to be a 12-point, or you will take twice as long, flipping it over, to get the additional 1/12th of a revolution with each go...
 
swooshdave said:
That is the beauty of this forum, you learn something new every day. And a picture!

I think the fuss is that you need to have the right wrench for that to work. Unfortunately I don't.
Click to expand...

Well yes, the correct spanner is necessary.

The method I posted wont work with S wrench unfortunately, only a straight wrench will provide the correct torque
 
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