Rear Brake Switch

Anyone know of a modern sealed switch that can be used to replace the stock Lucas rubber booted button switch used for the rear brake?
The boot fell off mine during a ride and fried the LED tail/brake light. I wasn't aware but the LED unit is rated to stay on 6-7 minutes at a time before damage occurs to the circuit board.
I tried to go with the Old Britts brake cable that incorporates the switch into the cable but the switch on those falls on the exhaust pipe of an Intersate system.

Don't have the part number but this is the best I have seen. http://groups.msn.com/Brit-Fe-Pics/shoe ... hotoID=207

Digikey,(http://www.digikey.com) an industrial electronics parts supplier is really cheap and fast (I got my sealed battery from them) they have these units in their catalogue - I would like to get one myself, haven't taken the time to pick the right one.

Cheers,
fstbk

Mr Mudcat,

Please share as to which LED system you had... Thank you!

Thanks for the replies and picture, thats the type switch I had in mind norbsa. I'll post a part number here when I determine what it is.

My taillight is a Bulbsthatlast4ever unit. The repair report was that some of the solder connections had become partially loose because of overheating due to overly long "ON" condition caused by a failed brake light switch.

Boy, does that sound BOOOOOOOOOOGUS

From their web page it looks like there are less than 20 LEDs in their light assy. Each LED draws about 20milliamps. This equals 400 milliamps - less than a half of an amp.

Add to that the fact that LEDs need current limiting resistors and the fact this resistor is going to have a very low power rating.

This resistor will surely open up before it passes anywhere near enough current to melt solder.

These people are full of crap.

BTW they have a message board at there web sight. (www.bulbsthatlast4ever.com) You might want to ask them about this on their public forum.

Arch...

Think about it...

You might be right, might be wrong, but unless you have the said item in front of your own eyes..... making the fellow who builds these LED thingys look like a lier....come on!.......he sees a bit more of those than you do, and something must have been wrong with it or the owner would not have sent it back in to get it repaired. Could be heat, could be cold solder joints, could be cob webs...how would YOU know? And that's the point....He knows, but you don't....and neither do I. Cut the man some slack. Calling him names serves no purpose.

I have to agree with Hewhois..., this unit was expensive by bulb standards and I couldn't justify it by saying there was a savings in bulb replacements but it is so much brighter than an 1157 bulb. The unit is well made and their customer support has been good in the past so I have no reason to doubt them at this point.

Okay, maybe these people sell a well made tail light unit that is designed to fail if the brake light stays on for more that 6-7 minutes.

But then I must ask why would they do this? LEDs are designed for long life and low current draw. Why would they design these advantages out of their product

Who told you that the brake switch should not be left on for more than 6-7 minutes? Was it in their installation manual? It wasn't mentioned on their web-site.

Did they tell you this after you sent the item in for repair?

Did they fix it? Did they charge you?

A more likely cause of failure was a cold solder joint that failled. (There is a lot of vibration back there.) This happens on the Boyer pick-up all the time. This does not indicate an inferior product.

BTW Hewho, I've seen a whole lot of failed electronic products in my 35 years as an electronics technician. When there is enough current to melt solder there will be damage to the circuit traces and the circuit board. Over current situations leave lots of obvious fingerprints.

And I'm sorry if I demeaned this man's character. But either he has a poorly designed product, he is mistaken in his diagnoses or he doesn't know what he's talking about.

Peace

Arch..

All may indeed be true, the points you have brought up. The item isn't a perfectly designed product, and I know through my own experience that it will toast if you don't pay attention to what you are doing when you install it. But this stinker makes such a nice bright and visible taillite that it makes me feel safe, and that's a nice thing. I wouldn't build it out again. Maybe it will fail, if I run into some nasty road construction that has a 10 minute red lite on it...could be. Other than that, or some off-the-wall thing, like having your brake lite switch break....normal use will never see it being on for ten minutes, and if my old bulb tailite had been on for ten minutes, it would have popped too.

You have the know-how, I suggest you find a buddy in your area, ask to get a look at his nice, bright and better than yours, LED tailite and see what you, would suggest to improve the product...donate you knowledge to the vendor. Improve the chances of hundreds of Brit bike lovers staying alive and not getting rear-ended by some drunk in a Pontiac.

By your undenieably correct comments and points, I see you have the skill and knowledge, to accomplish this little bit of homework...and that you can accomplich it tactfully....without throwing any "labels" into the wind...... :wink: