Quality oil pressure gauge
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ashman
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I have a Smiths 100 PSI oil gauge that was given to me new back in the late 70s have the oil lines for it but have never installed it still sitting on a shelf in the gauge holder I made for it to fit between the handlebar clamps, never seen a reason to fit it, but will look good with the other Smith gauges.
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I use an oil pressure gauge to test on start up, after rebuild or a long time resting. For example, I used it last week after not having run the bike since last September. Typically I will spin it on the rollers until I see some pressure, then go for a start in earnest.
I use a cheap gauge from RGM with plastic hose, however, the banjo and in particular the banjo bolt are the same as these. Unlike the Venhill banjo bolt which has a more positive location step for the banjo. Getting two banjos and 3 washers all lined up is a fiddle and I get an oil leak from it every time I use it and have to loosen, jiggle it about and retighten to stop it!
After testing, I take the bloody thing off! Because there is no value in knowing the oil pressure every time I start it! And no potential oil leak.
robs ss
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I have purchased, but not yet fitted, a Livorsi 80psi gauge with a sender that will be mounted near the battery, thus avoiding an oil line up to the speedo cluster - no "bendy, bendy".
A single electrical wire will send the info to the gauge.
It will replace the Livorsi volt meter that Matt fitted that just says "14V" all the time.
A single electrical wire will send the info to the gauge.
It will replace the Livorsi volt meter that Matt fitted that just says "14V" all the time.
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Rob,
Excuse my ignorance on this but With this gauge is there an oil line going to the sender by the battery?
Thanks,Mike
I've said this before: Oil pressure gauge caught the conical seal (06.6190) failure on my MKIII from oil pump to timing cover - twice! Perhaps the 06.7510 on previous models doesn't fail, I don't have any experience. I will say that just looking at oil returning to the tank doesn't reveal the failure of this seal as oil just gets dumped into the case and dutifully returned to the tank but no high pressure oil gets delivered to where it's needed.
I posted pictures of a failed/split seal years ago on this site.
EDIT: Picture on this thread. https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/oil-pressure-gauge-to-the-rescue-again.30954/
I posted pictures of a failed/split seal years ago on this site.
EDIT: Picture on this thread. https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/oil-pressure-gauge-to-the-rescue-again.30954/
robs ss
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Yes Mike - I'll use a double banjo bolt on the LH side of the head back to the sender - static line though, just like the pressure feed to the head.
I have made a rubber mount to accept the sender.
In my (warped) view, this does two good things:
1) Simplifies the gauge to an "electric only" unit
2) Avoids an oil line threading through the "constantly bending" route.
Cheers
Rob
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olympus
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+1
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Thanks Rob,
Could you post a picture of this unit while it is on the bench as I don’t know what a static line is.
Thanks,
Mike
robs ss
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Not fitted yet Mike, but "static" just means the line doesn't undergo repeated bending with movement of the handlebars.
At that time I will also fit one of Madasses' low oil pressure senders (fits to the lower RH oil pressure banjo). I've also found a very bright LED (burn your retina type) and have made an angled bezel for the instrument cluster that will aim it right at my eyes.
If I have low oil pressure I want to know about it - not just another idiot light.
I have found that when I mounted my Holland Norton oil pressure gauge takeoff point where the banjo is on the head, there was a slight leak with the supplied aluminium washers.
I took it apart, and reassembled with a very thin smear of Permatex white thread sealant on the sides of al the washers.
Success.
(I also previously did that on the oil pressure limiter valve washers on the timing case cover. )
After appliying and assembling, I wait 24 hours for it to set. It cannot be retightened after it sets (should it leak) but must be taken apart with the
surfaces cleaned of hardened thread sealant.
Dennis
I took it apart, and reassembled with a very thin smear of Permatex white thread sealant on the sides of al the washers.
Success.
(I also previously did that on the oil pressure limiter valve washers on the timing case cover. )
After appliying and assembling, I wait 24 hours for it to set. It cannot be retightened after it sets (should it leak) but must be taken apart with the
surfaces cleaned of hardened thread sealant.
Dennis
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A 'static line' is the thing military parachutists hook on the rail before they jump to open their chute.....
No I don't know what he meant by static line either, but my guess is he means that it stays in one place unlike a hose up to the fork yokes/top triple tree which has to flex when you steer, of course on a Commando, my guess is it isn't that static!
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$135 from EBay, looks the part, it’s an oilfilled gauge and it gives me the info I wanted. The bolts holding the feed plate came with a flat washer and a split washer which allowed oil to seep along the threads, so replaced them with copper washers and it’s oil tight and functional.
Hello SPDTRPL, Is this the one sold by Eurotrash? I have bought stuff from him in the past and was quite satisfied,
.Thanks, Ed
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Seller had the Ebay name of bsanut, and the seller info. shows the company as eurojamb.
Transaction was good.
Same guy. Thank you.
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Rob,
I also use the Madass unit tied into a ICM box which works nicely but am curious about the angled bezel.
Anyway to make it more visible!
Mike
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