Quality of replacement gears

79x100 said:

Time Warp, are you recommending Nova or pointing them out as a likely suspect ? Graham Dyson from Nova died a year or two back but the Nova gears that I've seen from him in the past were very well finished. He impressed me as a careful and skilled engineer (if sometimes a little slow on delivery).
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All good with Nova, see my post on page one of this thread.

ludwig said:

john robert bould said:

.. But at the end of the day, this Forum is about sharing info etc...

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Yes .. but in this case only in one direction .
I hope people here remember Gary's attitude next time he asks for advice ..

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Gary, I don't see your problem naming the vendor of these gears. Those who are satisfied with this cheaper quality gears will buy it anyway, those who are looking for excellent quality will know where NOT to buy their gears.

......Ludwig about sharing info, I am (we are) still anxiously waiting for info on your home made camshaft oil bath you showed us the other day!?

Time Warp said:

79x100 said:

Time Warp, are you recommending Nova or pointing them out as a likely suspect ? Graham Dyson from Nova died a year or two back but the Nova gears that I've seen from him in the past were very well finished. He impressed me as a careful and skilled engineer (if sometimes a little slow on delivery).
.

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All good with Nova, see my post on page one of this thread.

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My apologies T W - I didn't make the connection.

When setting up precision gear sets the last thing you do is roll a pattern with grease to reveal the contact positions on the face of the gears front and back (as typically they must go full force both directions). I don't think these gears would reveal a contact pattern using this method because of the uneven surfaces, you would need machinist's blue and you'd be in for a long night.

Fitting Instructions:
Assemble transmission,
fill 2/3 full with valve grinding compound (coarse grit),
run 50 - 75 laps around track using all gears then fully dismantle transmission.
Clean gear case and gears fully (gears should now be lapped in),
replace mainshaft, layshaft and all bearings and bushings and re-assemble.
Fill gear box with gear oil.
Now you're good to go!

I have to admire you for standing your ground but sorry man, those gears are so dam ugly! If you do run them tell us how the tranny sounds, I'm thinking it will hum a tune. Fit a magnetic drain plug. Change oil after 10 miles, all that chaffing has to go somewhere.

Renik.
PLEASE. PLEASE no more JOKES!
Filling the box with grinding paste, :!: :lol: you will be suggesting filling a new build engine with brasso instead of oil next!

So who is Joking? - as those gears should shed some steel abrasive grit on initial bedding as they de-bur, so do a lube change pretty soon after a few break in runs. One way one might improve them for approval here would be to Nitride plate over the underlying texture, then as the high points bust off the drive forces eventually will bear on nice polished/burnished hard surface. i found 3rd gear set is the weakest link teeth loosing wise but only looses about 3 teeth per cog, so not that weak I guess. The next weakest teeth cogs are the Cdo small pinion TS idler which should be replaced with the wider Atlas version.

Are all amercans jokers?
what happens to the bearings and bush's ? with course grinding paste in a ball bearing i suspect the bearing will soon develope clearance...lot's of it :!:
Its the maddest thing i have heard on this forum.

hobot said:

So who is Joking? - as those gears should shed some steel abrasive grit on initial bedding as they de-bur, so do a lube change pretty soon after a few break in runs. One way one might improve them for approval here would be to Nitride plate over the underlying texture, then as the high points bust off the drive forces eventually will bear on nice polished/burnished hard surface. i found 3rd gear set is the weakest link teeth loosing wise but only looses about 3 teeth per cog, so not that weak I guess. The next weakest teeth cogs are the Cdo small pinion TS idler which should be replaced with the wider Atlas version.

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RennieK said:

I have to admire you for standing your ground but sorry man, those gears are so dam ugly! If you do run them tell us how the tranny sounds, I'm thinking it will hum a tune. Fit a magnetic drain plug. Change oil after 10 miles, all that chaffing has to go somewhere.

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I'm thinking I will run it gently on the street for half an hour using all gears for equal lengths of time, drain the oil, pull all the gears out and clean them (take pictures). On the race weekend Saturday is practice day; two 20 minute sessions; ride around with the CB160s; moderate amounts of throttle: drain and clean again (take more pictures). Sunday is race day; one 20 minute practice and two 15 minute races after which drain and clean again: make decision on long term use based on condition.

Cheers! ~ Gary

Good Luck Gaz,
Thanks for sharing an interesting post, i recon a lot of watcher's have learned alot.
Me...i'm off to the Lansdowne racing tomorrow at Oulton Part , to see some proper put together machine's.....you have a "good in" running in...please report back, i am sure "we" will be watching.

Just reading "race prep" by EM Franks, he say's cleanliness is the key " wash parts in clean petrol, blow off with compressed air, then fill the gearbox with clean oil and two pounds of course grinding grit! :lol: ...sorry i ment race prep by Hobit! Sorry Steve ,but you want hanging for that reply. :!:

Well Johnny in this case I'd sure think about a magnetic sump plug. I encourage everyone to take chances and experiment then get back with us so we can learn from it - not to worry or recoil properly. Shoot a AMC box don't really even need all it teeth to work pretty good, till a big bump bounces the pieces to jam the works enough de-clutching don't release the locked tire. Personally I'd call a big vendor like Baxters to pick out a good used set with just a few 1000 miles on them d/t the chronic break downs of past Cdo's in both parts and parts supply and cash on hand back when.

john robert bould said:

Just reading "race prep" by EM Franks, he say's cleanliness is the key " wash parts in clean petrol, blow off with compressed air, then fill the gearbox with clean oil and two pounds of course grinding grit! :lol: ...sorry i ment race prep by Hobit! Sorry Steve ,but you want hanging for that reply. :!:

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Edgar Franks is a posthumous hero of mine. I wish that I knew more about him. His early '30s redesign of the single cylinder engine left traces up until the end of (proper) Norton production.

I have his 4th edition "Norton" book 1952 , Good bed time reading, covers side valve-O.H.C . His master of" old boy" English is a joy in it's self