Priming crankcase (new build)
- Thread starter Stillreel
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I wouldn't prime anything until you are ready to start it. Then you can fill the crank and passages with an oil can through the line that goes to the head. Then I would pour that 5 oz of oil over the exhaust springs and down the pushrod tubes to pre-lube the cam and lifters.
If you are using an anti-wetsump valve I would not install it until the engine has been run in. [actually I wouldn't instal it at all but that's just me] Jim
If you are using an anti-wetsump valve I would not install it until the engine has been run in. [actually I wouldn't instal it at all but that's just me] Jim
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hehe I get 1st shot at posts over weekends when most are not a work stations.
Type of oil in primary depends if its a simple 750 or complicated 850 tensioner gizmo. I run any ATF on hand in my 750's, just enough to barely touch bottom of chain run at rest. 850's need thicker engine grade oil at amount close to what manual lists.
Wasted effort to oil prime till just before ready to test your self and components assembled to start, as just drains into sump as so famous Norton phenomena. Before TS cover put on, turn crank so pistons near TDC then pump oil in exposed crank end till oil drips out sump drain plug, then put TS cover on. Pump oil into oil tank feed line to prime pump, till bored or seeing more oil dripping out drain plug. Fill oil tank and pump oil some into head oil hose taps, then nip up head oil hoses and squirt oil on valve train and down push rod tunnels, ie: dump/squirt oil into rock boxes before placing covers on.
Install piston rings dry or if still newbie mis-informed, follow Total Seal method and use a non-lubricating/lubrication removing spray like wd/40 and dry powder Bon Ami cleaner/polisher or similar that TotalSeal now sells for this dry ring install.
Don't bother or damage engine further by trying to prime oil by tuning over w/o running as just wears cam/lifter surfaces, on as yet unprotected by hi temp running plating of zn/phos nano pads layer. Best- after the half ass pre oiling feel-good-procedure, get her started and hold way over idle rpm, like 2000+, to get oil pressure protection wedge the fastest and then hold rpms for a few minutes with some blips over base line 2000ish+ rpms. When more smoke vaporizing than can stand, shut down, cool down and recheck all fasteners, drain initial oil and then ready to break in on longer heat cycles and road loads.
Leave oil tank cap off to watch for return oil foam and splash and spray, which should show up in 30 sec or so if rev'ing engine in the 2000+ zone, or if only a bit over idle > may take over a minute of suspense and engine low oil pressure damage. Its almost impossible to over heat an unloaded Norton as little fuel being burnt, much as that don't seem possible, I've measured temps to calm my own heart on this issue. If running long, like 5 min+ to diddle carbs and sparks i aim small fan at engine, but mainly to blow oil vapors away than get much cooling.
I use Rotella diesel grade 15/40 oil for its hi detergents most needed on first starts with most blow by and crap to flush plus the metal protection package.
Type of oil in primary depends if its a simple 750 or complicated 850 tensioner gizmo. I run any ATF on hand in my 750's, just enough to barely touch bottom of chain run at rest. 850's need thicker engine grade oil at amount close to what manual lists.
Wasted effort to oil prime till just before ready to test your self and components assembled to start, as just drains into sump as so famous Norton phenomena. Before TS cover put on, turn crank so pistons near TDC then pump oil in exposed crank end till oil drips out sump drain plug, then put TS cover on. Pump oil into oil tank feed line to prime pump, till bored or seeing more oil dripping out drain plug. Fill oil tank and pump oil some into head oil hose taps, then nip up head oil hoses and squirt oil on valve train and down push rod tunnels, ie: dump/squirt oil into rock boxes before placing covers on.
Install piston rings dry or if still newbie mis-informed, follow Total Seal method and use a non-lubricating/lubrication removing spray like wd/40 and dry powder Bon Ami cleaner/polisher or similar that TotalSeal now sells for this dry ring install.
Don't bother or damage engine further by trying to prime oil by tuning over w/o running as just wears cam/lifter surfaces, on as yet unprotected by hi temp running plating of zn/phos nano pads layer. Best- after the half ass pre oiling feel-good-procedure, get her started and hold way over idle rpm, like 2000+, to get oil pressure protection wedge the fastest and then hold rpms for a few minutes with some blips over base line 2000ish+ rpms. When more smoke vaporizing than can stand, shut down, cool down and recheck all fasteners, drain initial oil and then ready to break in on longer heat cycles and road loads.
Leave oil tank cap off to watch for return oil foam and splash and spray, which should show up in 30 sec or so if rev'ing engine in the 2000+ zone, or if only a bit over idle > may take over a minute of suspense and engine low oil pressure damage. Its almost impossible to over heat an unloaded Norton as little fuel being burnt, much as that don't seem possible, I've measured temps to calm my own heart on this issue. If running long, like 5 min+ to diddle carbs and sparks i aim small fan at engine, but mainly to blow oil vapors away than get much cooling.
I use Rotella diesel grade 15/40 oil for its hi detergents most needed on first starts with most blow by and crap to flush plus the metal protection package.
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hobot said:
2nd Shot. Must be crappy weather in CO too.
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LOL! - almost choking out nose on coffee! Don't add any oil to the crankcase sump, more than desired will end up there regardless of pre-oiling or not. If ya put extra oil in sump it will show up at tank exit before the rest of the engine gets full oil to drain to sump for pump to pick it up, so delays the suspense if full oil flow to rest of the engine.
IIRC it took just over 30 sec of well primed Combat for 1st hints of oil spits to show up then almost a full minute @ 2000+ rpm for full foamy oil flow to show up, then cool down, settle down, torque check rest interval > to see full spitting out of non foamy oil returns. Some leave 1st oil in there for 50 miles or so but I think its best to be rid of the crap after 1st start heat up and flush out after only a few minutes proof you got er going, again.
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