Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "Hi"

Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

gorgeous!

cheers
Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "Hi"
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

I took my bike on its first decent run last weekend. About a 160 mile round trip.
I was extremely pleased with the bike's performance. But why oh why do amateurs think they can improve things? The previous owner told me proudly he'd managed to fit an extra clutch plate when re-installing the clutch! What a pain! Well, it sure drags. I can't engage first without a crunch, no matter how careful I am. Down changes while riding need a throttle blip otherwise it crunches again. My Commando was truly a "hot knife through butter" shift.
I'm going to have to take the primary side down as a minimum, to install a clutch, as "per factory".
I was advised by others to incorporate a Norvil belt drive conversion with diaphragm clutch, lay shaft roller bearing conversion as I inspect the gearbox internals for signs of wear and damage. Would the others here agree?

Here's a link to the posts re the NSW NOC meet at Stanwell Park I went to, with a couple of photos in case anyone is interested.
bsa-norton-gathering-sydney-t25502.html
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

I was talking trash to some commando owners and suggested despite the nice commando ride it's like driving a school bus...said the featherbed driver. :twisted:
On the belt drive..if you are going to do it, I recommend the commando main shaft substitution, instead of, on atlas main shaft..the welded washer on commando clutch center ....Either way I think you have to move the alternator stator out for clearance due to the belt width.
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

MGB65B said:
I'd wondered if the oil seepage past the rocker spindle covers seen in the photos above might not at least partly be a result of my "improved" oil pump. Certainly my Commando never exhibited this tendency.

Might be worth trying a new set of little gaskets in there first. ?

We note too those buttonhead fasteners, rather than hexheads.
Tried torquing them up a shade ?
As all fasteners on Nortons (and bikes generally) need after a settling-in period.
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

Rohan said:
MGB65B said:
I'd wondered if the oil seepage past the rocker spindle covers seen in the photos above might not at least partly be a result of my "improved" oil pump. Certainly my Commando never exhibited this tendency.

Might be worth trying a new set of little gaskets in there first. ?

We note too those buttonhead fasteners, rather than hexheads.
Tried torquing them up a shade ?
As all fasteners on Nortons (and bikes generally) need after a settling-in period.

Thanks Rohan, I was intending to do as you suggest and nip up those spindle cover "bolts" first. I'd also already checked on the availability of spindle cover gaskets, and, not surprisingly they're readily available.
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

Such a nice bike looking bike, I have a love of any Featherbed Nortons and I am glad you have decided to keep it like that, be a shame to change anything on it, as for gaskets they are easy to make if you can't get them, I make my own when need to, in the last 3 rebuilds I have done I had to make timing cover gaskets as the ones in the gasket kits didn't quite fit at the front top of the gasket.

Where abouts in Aussie land are you, I am building a 1960 650 Manxman at the moment, anyway enjoy your new ride and ride it ride it, I bet she be a nice smooth rider as well.

Ashley
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

ashman said:
Such a nice bike looking bike, I have a love of any Featherbed Nortons and I am glad you have decided to keep it like that, be a shame to change anything on it
Where abouts in Aussie land are you, I am building a 1960 650 Manxman at the moment, anyway enjoy your new ride and ride it ride it, I bet she be a nice smooth rider as well.

Ashley

Thanks for the comments Ashley.
I'm in the Kurrajong Hills, about an hour and a half by car (or bike) north-west out of Sydney.
Best of luck with your Manxman. At least for me, the 650 series (Manxman, 650SS and Mercury) were the high point of the Norton twins.
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

Does anybody have a 600cc &/or a 650cc crankshaft pulled apart?

I am interested in knowing the inside diameter of the hollow core of the crank-pin journal, to see if Norton altered the wall thickness of the journal, or just the outside diameter & stroke of the journal.
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

Nice looking bike. The 88 did not suffer with primary or gearbox problems even when production raced, so the standard stuff is fine,just have to suffer slight primary side oil leaks( most of which are from the breather or even gearbox ). Its a bike that is a total package and unlike more powerfull machines it can be ridden to its maximum which is exiting and satisfying. A better crank case breather with a light valve or flap may help with any oiling problems caused by the uprated oil supply. Looking at the same issue with a 99 that I have "tweaked" the head oiling on. I'm putting the Atlas back together today and am going to give the 99 a run out . It was minus 7 degrees and heavy frost yesterday morning and carb freezing a problem. Don't suppose you know what that is!!!.
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

Very nice-looking bike! During my brief time working at Norton-Villers' Wolverhampton facility, I had a rather dog-eared 650SS provided by the company as a ride-to-work, since I lived about 45 miles away and there was no reasonable public transit. According to the odometer, it had 132,000 miles on it, but it had never been licensed. It had the UK "trade" plates (red with white digits). I visited the Wolverhampton facility a couple of years after we emigrated to the US and the 650 was still there.

Does anyone know what happened to the old girl? It may have been scrapped after N-V went down the tubes, because of its high mileage. It was a very reliable machine during the time I used it.
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

frankdamp said:
According to the odometer, it had 132,000 miles on it,

Odometers at that time would normally go back to 0 at 100,000 miles. :?

As it was a hack on a trade plate and presumably available to practically anyone in the works to use, can you be absolutely certain it hadn't been crashed or blown up and rebuilt several times or a used replacement speedo fitted?
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

MGB65B said:
I took my bike on its first decent run last weekend. About a 160 mile round trip.
I was extremely pleased with the bike's performance. But why oh why do amateurs think they can improve things? The previous owner told me proudly he'd managed to fit an extra clutch plate when re-installing the clutch! What a pain! Well, it sure drags. I can't engage first without a crunch, no matter how careful I am. Down changes while riding need a throttle blip otherwise it crunches again. My Commando was truly a "hot knife through butter" shift.
I'm going to have to take the primary side down as a minimum, to install a clutch, as "per factory".
I was advised by others to incorporate a Norvil belt drive conversion with diaphragm clutch, lay shaft roller bearing conversion as I inspect the gearbox internals for signs of wear and damage. Would the others here agree?
l

I do not know how the PO could have fitted ONE extra clutch plate (furthermore it takes a mating pair to gain more torque capacity), I would say bring your clutch back to original specs. AN has an exploded parts view of the clutch:
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-dr ... odels-manx

A Venhill Featherlite clutch cable will reduce lever pull.

The way I see it, the main reason to convert to belt drive is to avoid the oil leaks. The Dommie tin ware primary case can be make leakproof, so if that is your reason to convert, PM me for tricks on sealing the primary.

If you do convert, you will have to move the rotor and stator outboard. Using Commando stator mount and rotor will make that easy.

Next, you will need worry over losing the cushion drive in the clutch center. Before the Commandos were fitted with the cush drive rear hubs, they were said to break gears. Your Dommie may not have that problem, as it does not have the power of the Commandos, but you should be aware and consider that factor in your decision to convert.

Whether you convert or not, Dynodave's clutch pushrod seal is a worthwhile mod whenever you get inside your primary case.

You have a pretty bike. I would not obsess over originality, but I would endeavor to keep it as much so as practical. Just my opinion.

Slick
 
Re: Previous Norton owner "newbie" from Australia, saying "H

L.A.B.

I'm not even sure it was a contemporary speedo for the age of the bike. It could've been much older. The engine blew a head gasket while I was using it, and the amount of effort it took to get the head off suggested it had been ridden a lot but not repaired much. AMC at Plumstead were a bit notorious for following the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" law, particularly with those "foreigners from Birmingham".

The old-timers there never forgave management for making AJS 2-strokes (the Stormer trail/street bike). I rode one to/from work for a while. The biggest PITA was having to shake the bike about to re-combine the gas and Castrol "R" oil after it had been parked for more than an hour or so. The oil, being vegetable-based, didn't dissolve in the gasoline, but just went into suspension and would settle out.

Eventually N-V figured out a way to get the Starmaker engine to run on 2-stroke oil. I went through three cylinder barrels in as many months due to lubrication failure with the Castrol R. The engine would run at full throttle forever, but part-throttle riding on the street would make it overheat. The piston rings would weld themselves to the exhaust port momentarily as they passed, then break loose and cause the piston to wobble. The cooling fins near the exhaust port often glowed red - visible at night - then would break off.
 
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