Power Coat or Paint?

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Powder coating is much more environmentally friendly than liquid paint. Probably more cost effective when used in mass production since any powder that doesn't cling to the article being coated can be recovered.
 
>>>>>>I've just (this weekend!) finished painting my MkIIA frame with 2-pack.<<<<<<

What is 2-pack?
 
Interesting conversation. The replies kind of surprise me, but I'm in agreement that paint may be the better way to go, especially since I know a guy who's Michelangelo with a paint gun!
 
It would make a lot more sense to powder coat in a manufacturing situation. You'd have everything worked out for proper application, probably special plugs for holes, etc. The waste would be minimal.
 
2-pack is Two Pack Acrylic Enamel. Dangerous stuff.

Dave
 
I like the por 15 Blackcote. It's high solids and tough . Stands up to UV pretty good too. Don't have to prime if you beadblast and treat with ospho. It isn't cheap but like they say... you get what you pay for. My local powder coat guy gets $250 for a frame and swingarm. Use what you save to pay the chrome crook.
 
I like the por 15 Blackcote. It's high solids and tough . Stands up to UV pretty good too.
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I have used this for some of the small brackets and such on my BMW/Velorex rig and find it chips rather easily. I don't think I'd choose it to do a complete frame. It's a moisture cure polyurethane.

I have a frame painted with Delthane polyurethane (same chemistry as DuPon Imron). Looks good after 15 years, but also chips easily also.
 
Ron L said:
I have a frame painted with Delthane polyurethane (same chemistry as DuPon Imron). Looks good after 15 years, but also chips easily also.
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I was told buy a paint guy that Imron is supposed to be a tough paint. I had my doubts as I had a custom mountain bike frame made once and thay used Imron and it chipped easily.
 
Coco said:
Ron L said:
I have a frame painted with Delthane polyurethane (same chemistry as DuPon Imron). Looks good after 15 years, but also chips easily also.
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I was told buy a paint guy that Imron is supposed to be a tough paint. I had my doubts as I had a custom mountain bike frame made once and thay used Imron and it chipped easily.
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This settles it. Next time I go up the Alaska Hwy everything gets covered with lots of electrical tape. On the way back at least, nobody could see it anyway.
 
I was told buy a paint guy that Imron is supposed to be a tough paint. I had my doubts as I had a custom mountain bike frame made once and thay used Imron and it chipped easily.
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It's really a matter of definition of the failure. Polyurethane has marginal adhesion properties, so it chips fairly easily. It has good chemical resistance and abrasion resistance, so the film is tough. In formulating paints it is always a compromise. Optimize one property and another suffers.
 
I'm kind of a plonker, but I painted the frame on my Bonneville with Rustoleum primer and gloss black from rattle cans. I spent a lot of time on the prep work and I think it looks pretty decent. I ride the bike a lot and its held up real well. Also scratches are easy to touch up with a small can of the enamel. I'm planning on doing the same on my Commando, but again I'm not trying to build a show bike just another rider.
 
Now I having real second thoughts about PC. I think I will go talk to a bunch of different shops and see what happens, I am ready to paint or PC at this point and start putting things back together.

Dave
69S
 
JimC said:
A quart of Dupont Imron black sells for $79 at my supplier. The hardener is $59. How much paint and what color did you buy? No doubt the primer, color, and hardenders would run that much. $100 doesn't buy much at the ol' paint store anymore
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I live in California. I have yet to find anyone allowed to spray Imron around here. It can be pretty hazardous to your health if not applied properly and wearing the right safety gear (respirators, amsks, protective suit, etc.) Anyone know of a shop that will spray a frame with Imron?

I'm reluctant to try brushing it for all the safety reasons. You can check the MSDS sheet for it and it will scare you to death!
 
I don't use Imron, just checked the price. When I used to paint cars I used a respirator. I doubt I'll ever do a complete again. I suffer from chronic bronchitis. I would not do any extensive painting without a supplied air respirator. Today, I can't even use water base house paint indoors without becoming ill. Another unhealthy work is welding. Did a lot of that , as well.
 
Re: painting with shake cans of rustolium, I did that last time and the gas and oil quickly eroded the paint, especially on the engine frame and the swing arm. Won't do that again.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Now I having real second thoughts about PC. I think I will go talk to a bunch of different shops and see what happens, I am ready to paint or PC at this point and start putting things back together.

Dave
69S
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Before you write off powdercoating completely remember that the standard powdercoating business is in fact only equipped to provide industrial quality work. You are bound to be disappointed if you hope to get anything else. If you could see the racks in the oven you would see your frame alongside awnings and lawn furniture. It's the beauty of powdercoating at that level, it requires no craft or art. It's foolproof. But there are people out there doing exactly what you want. And as Ron said, "There's powder and then there's powder." In the end it'll cost ya though.
 
Did anyone mention that show judges deduct points for powdercoated frames if they were not done originally? Not that it matters to me as my bikes are oily rag condition.
 

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What I am getting out of this is that there is powdercoating and there is powdercoating, depending on who is applying it. There are 3 powdercoaters local to me in Manassas (maybe more, but I only found 3 so far). One industrial and 2 independent. I will have to go look at their work and what kind of work they do and compare that to having an industrial coating like the Dupont Imron or similar (paint with hardner) at one of the local specialty painters. Should I stay away from the auto body shops? I don't want any special paint, black frame and the metal flake blue put back on my panels and tank, and the silver flake on the rear light assy.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Should I stay away from the auto body shops? I don't want any special paint, black frame and the metal flake blue put back on my panels and tank, and the silver flake on the rear light assy.

Dave
69S
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Get the frame done locally but send the tins out to a motorcycle friendly painter. You know, guys that specialize in doing good paint for picky customers.
 
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