I'm changing my 850's tail light over to the older style & want to paint my rear fender. I can bead blast, prime & paint it myself or have it powder coated, Is powdercoating a bad idea for a rear fender? Seems like it may not hold up if I flex it a little on assembly or to road use. Also i seem to remember a few people (swoosh) talking about undercoating the inside. Has anyone had good or bad experiance doing that? Thanks, Glenn.
Rear fender, Paint or Powder Coat ???
- Thread starter gtsun
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That's interesting, I don't know much about powdercoating but for some reason I thought it was much harder & therefor more brittle & prone to chipping if I twisted the fender. If it's softer, shows scuffs & scratches more and has less gloss, then why is it used on bikes so much? Doing it myself with a good enamal of some sort is sounding like a better path to walk. PS. I haven't liked the poor flowability of the spray epoxies I have tried lately.
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I have not had good experience with powder coat. If a nick or dull spot develop, one cannot buff out the imperfection as you can do with the new polyurethane paints. Powder coat is also more difficult to remove if you ever want to change the color. I also had experience with the powder coating cracking on a frame where fastener washers rib the coating.
Good luck.
Team FASTLIKEJUDY
Good luck.
Team FASTLIKEJUDY
As long as it's done right. It's tougher than paint and has better scratch resistance.
Perfect for the underside of a fender, or the frame etc.
Not so much if "Wet Glass" is the finish your after.
It's not a Norton. It's Me Bonnie.
The brake drum and everything black here has been powdered. It's as glossy as it was
when it left the factory. But the odd stone won't go chipping it off.
Perfect for the underside of a fender, or the frame etc.
Not so much if "Wet Glass" is the finish your after.
It's not a Norton. It's Me Bonnie.
The brake drum and everything black here has been powdered. It's as glossy as it was
when it left the factory. But the odd stone won't go chipping it off.
Ron L
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Guys, remember, their are different chemistries to powder coating just like liquid paint. As I have said before, Hardly Abelson uses powder (PPG) on all painted surfaces. However, it isn't the same powder for all surfaces.
It is much easier to find the proper liquid paint and primers than the proper powder for each job due to cost of manufacture of the powder paint. For that reason, I would suggest using liquid paint with proper surface preparation.
It is much easier to find the proper liquid paint and primers than the proper powder for each job due to cost of manufacture of the powder paint. For that reason, I would suggest using liquid paint with proper surface preparation.
Powder coat can be high gloss, semi-gloss or mat dependent on the powder colour you select.
I have powdercoated frame, swing arm, stands, battery box & other pieces very successfully with Mirror Black (high gloss black).
It's easily done in an ordinary domestic oven (that you DO NOT use for cooking) at 400 degrees & 20 minutes. Used ovens are easy to pick up, often for free.
A fender would be easy too.
Stephen
I have powdercoated frame, swing arm, stands, battery box & other pieces very successfully with Mirror Black (high gloss black).
It's easily done in an ordinary domestic oven (that you DO NOT use for cooking) at 400 degrees & 20 minutes. Used ovens are easy to pick up, often for free.
A fender would be easy too.
Stephen
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I know this will sound really bad but as far as painting the Commando frame...use a rattle can of gloss black. If you do just a half-A$$ed prep, Rustoleum (or whatever) will look as good as anything and it's easily fixed as necessary.
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