Podtronics and Atlas question

Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
866
Country flag
On my 66 Atlas, I have a 3 wire alternator.

Green w/yellow
Green w/black
White w/green

If i want to convert the bike to 12 volt, Podtronics says to connect the Green w/yellow & Green w/Black wires. Fairly straight forward however, the Green w/yellow wire goes off to the headlamp switch as does the Green w/black wire (to different positions). Is it really that simple? Should I still just connect the two?
 
What wires does it say goes to the podtronics unit ?
Do they give you (an abbreviated) wiring diagram.
 
Rohan said:
What wires does it say goes to the podtronics unit ?
Do they give you (an abbreviated) wiring diagram.

The Podtronics says...(And this is all they give):

If you have an early bike with 6 volt, three wire alternator, this can be converted to 12 volts.

1. Connect the alternator's Green/Yellow and Green/Black wires together. They now become one leg of your system.
(Note- Later two wire 12v. alternators do not have the green/yellow wire.)

2. The Green/White is the other leg of your system.

3. Connect each leg to the yellow wires on the PODtronics.

(note- be sure to change the battery and all light bulbs to 12 volts)
 
The Lucas main switch connects the wires together depending on switch position. Basically, a 3 wire alternator is sectioned into 1/3, 2/3, and 3/3 output, and the main switch puts the sections together as the load requires (1/3 no lights, 2/3 pilot, and 3/3 headlight). Connecting the GB and GY together will externally put the alternator into 3/3 output, then the Podtronics switches the alternator ON / OFF as the load requires.

You could bypass the main switch altogether and wire the GB + GY to one of the Podtronics Y and the third alternator wire to the other Podtronics Y. The Podtronics will perform the load adjustment rather than the main switch which is really inadequate to the task. This is the way I did my Atlas. I also put a 20 amp fuse in the black Podtronics wire before it connected to the battery (assuming pos. earth which is the Podtronics R wire.

Slick
 
texasSlick said:
The Lucas main switch connects the wires together depending on switch position. Basically, a 3 wire alternator is sectioned into 1/3, 2/3, and 3/3 output, and the main switch puts the sections together as the load requires (1/3 no lights, 2/3 pilot, and 3/3 headlight). Connecting the GB and GY together will externally put the alternator into 3/3 output, then the Podtronics switches the alternator ON / OFF as the load requires.

You could bypass the main switch altogether and wire the GB + GY to one of the Podtronics Y and the third alternator wire to the other Podtronics Y. The Podtronics will perform the load adjustment rather than the main switch which is really inadequate to the task. This is the way I did my Atlas. I also put a 20 amp fuse in the black Podtronics wire before it connected to the battery (assuming pos. earth which is the Podtronics R wire.

Slick

Thanks Slick! I may may do this but to change it up a bit, I don't plan on having a battery. So I guess there really isn't a need for a fuse is there? The only things being powered by the alternator are the Headlight, rear/brake light and horn. Maybe I could add a capacitor en lieu of a battery for better performance?
 
JohnnyMac wrote:

"Thanks Slick! I may may do this but to change it up a bit, I don't plan on having a battery. So I guess there really isn't a need for a fuse is there? The only things being powered by the alternator are the Headlight, rear/brake light and horn. Maybe I could add a capacitor en lieu of a battery for better performance?

Johnny:

Battery or not, If a short develops anywhere in the electrical circuit, the Podtronics will attempt to supply the amperage from the alternator, which will likely cook the stator. A fuse will limit this. I put the fuse in the NP wire (PM me if you do not have a wiring diagram with the color codes).

I assume you will be running your enviable K2FC .... no battery is necessary, and a capacitor will do nothing. I had planned to run my Podtronics without a battery, but solely to keep the lights up at idle, I now plan to run with one of those half-pint (1.75 AH) batteries. The horn may be weak without a battery.

Slick
 
texasSlick said:
JohnnyMac wrote:

"Thanks Slick! I may may do this but to change it up a bit, I don't plan on having a battery. So I guess there really isn't a need for a fuse is there? The only things being powered by the alternator are the Headlight, rear/brake light and horn. Maybe I could add a capacitor en lieu of a battery for better performance?

Johnny:

Battery or not, If a short develops anywhere in the electrical circuit, the Podtronics will attempt to supply the amperage from the alternator, which will likely cook the stator. A fuse will limit this. I put the fuse in the NP wire (PM me if you do not have a wiring diagram with the color codes).

I assume you will be running your enviable K2FC .... no battery is necessary, and a capacitor will do nothing. I had planned to run my Podtronics without a battery, but solely to keep the lights up at idle, I now plan to run with one of those half-pint (1.75 AH) batteries. The horn may be weak without a battery.

Slick

Thanks Slick. Are you certain that a capacitor in lieu of a battery will do nothing? I have seen many people post online that they are running a magneto/alternator/capacitor setup and that the capacitor makes a difference at idle to keep the lights from flickering/dimming.
 
I believe the reason for saying it wont be needed, because the capacitor will discharge so quickly it is going to constantly be playing catch up (takes awhile to charge a capacitor) once you start running lights and other loads. Hope I understood Slick

Nathan
 
texasSlick said:
The Lucas main switch connects the wires together depending on switch position. Basically, a 3 wire alternator is sectioned into 1/3, 2/3, and 3/3 output, and the main switch puts the sections together as the load requires (1/3 no lights, 2/3 pilot, and 3/3 headlight). Connecting the GB and GY together will externally put the alternator into 3/3 output, then the Podtronics switches the alternator ON / OFF as the load requires.

You could bypass the main switch altogether and wire the GB + GY to one of the Podtronics Y and the third alternator wire to the other Podtronics Y. The Podtronics will perform the load adjustment rather than the main switch which is really inadequate to the task. This is the way I did my Atlas. I also put a 20 amp fuse in the black Podtronics wire before it connected to the battery (assuming pos. earth which is the Podtronics R wire.

Slick

Slick I want to make sure I am understanding correctly. Will the Podtronic regulate the voltage output from the alternator similar to the 6v set up? Would converting to 12v and just running off the alternator put a strain on the alternator because once he is running lights or other loads will it put out full load?? That is where I get confused with the Podtronic, could you verify please?
 
NoisyNorton wrote:

. Slick I want to make sure I am understanding correctly. Will the Podtronic regulate the voltage output from the alternator similar to the 6v set up? Would converting to 12v and just running off the alternator put a strain on the alternator because once he is running lights or other loads will it put out full load?? That is where I get confused with the Podtronic, could you verify please?

The short answer is NO and NO.

The 3 wire 6V system regulated the alternator output by selecting 1/3, 2/3, or 3/3 (full) output. There are 6 coils on the stator .... each of the coils is series connected with the coil diametrically opposite to form 3 pairs. One of these pairs is brought out on one of the three lead wires (dunno which one without consulting my notes which are not with me at present), the other two pairs are parallel wired together and brought out on the other lead wire. The third lead wire is common to all pairs.

Wish I could post a circuit schematic, but cannot where I am. The following will have to suffice:

--------WWW--------WWW------------ lead 1

-------WWW---------WWW------]------ lead 2

------WWW---------WWW-------]

Ok, in the above sketch, a coil is represented by WWW, and ----- represents a wired connection. The two ] are wired together and thus the last four coils are in a series-parallel configuration. The third lead wire is common to all 3 coils on the left side. I am trying to schematically represent my explanation in words above.

I think lead 1 is the green/black and lead 2 is the green/yellow (really does not matter). The headlight (main) switch selected either lead 1, lead 2, or both. When lead 1 was selected, the alternator could only provide 1/3 of max amperage, and lead 2 was an open circuit. When lead2 was selected, 2/3 max amps was available, and lead1 was open circuit. For full output, both lead1 and lead2 were joined (at the main switch).

This was the control method. Basically to wire the alternator into three parts and pick the combination of parts that best matched the load.

The Podtronics is meant to work with all coils in the circuit. A two wire stator simply has lead 1 and lead 2 internally connected, and only lead 1 is brought out, along with the common lead.

Refer to jeandr's post in General Motorcycle Discussion regarding voltage regulators. He shows how the Podtronics works by short circuiting the stator output to earth. In short, the difference is regulation by open circuit (the old original way) and regulation by short circuit (the Podtronics way).

Now to the specifics of your questions:

Converting to 12V is as easy as changing out all the lamps from 6 V to 12V. The alternator voltage is a function of the magnetic strength of the rotor and the number of turns in the coils. The voltage can get very high (1 - 2 hundred volts) if there is NO load or battery in the circuit. Without a regulator or battery, you will blow all the lamps. The Podtronic provides the regulation to clamp the maximum voltage to about 14 V by rapidly shorting/un-shorting the coils of the stator to earth.

With more load (running all lights), the Podtronics has less work to do (shorting/un-shorting) to keep the voltage at 14 max.

The Podtronics strains (your word) the stator more when there is less load as it directly shorts the output lead wire to earth as required to hold down the output voltage to 14. When the load is high, the load strains the stator. The best situation is to have a regulator open circuit the stator to hold the voltage to 14, but this type of regulation poses other problems and I know of no commercially available regulators that work that way. Regardless, as Triton Thrasher says, the stator takes the strain either way.

FWIW .... I have a 2 wire stator on my Atlas with a Podtronics regulator. I have a 2.5 AH battery to keep up the lights at idle. The battery also acts like a capacitor and "smooths" out the regulator. Furthermore, should the regulator fail, the battery will prevent the lamps from blowing. I do not have the original Lucas main switch, and my wiring thus departs from stock.

If I were to wire in a Podtronics unit to a stock Lucas main switch, and with a three wire stator, I would simply plug in the stator wires to their respective color match on the 3-way bullet, and let the Lucas switch send the proper lead wire to the regulator. Lights on is now required in most jurisdictions, and the main switch will connect all the stator coils in the "lights on" position, same as joining the lead wires as Podtronics suggests. With a 2 wire stator, I would connect the stator wire to the green/yellow. If memory serves me correctly, that should deliver full stator output to the lights/battery/regulator when the main switch is in lights on position.

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask again if I failed to clear it up.

Slick
 
texasSlick said:
NoisyNorton wrote:

. Slick I want to make sure I am understanding correctly. Will the Podtronic regulate the voltage output from the alternator similar to the 6v set up? Would converting to 12v and just running off the alternator put a strain on the alternator because once he is running lights or other loads will it put out full load?? That is where I get confused with the Podtronic, could you verify please?

The short answer is NO and NO.

The 3 wire 6V system regulated the alternator output by selecting 1/3, 2/3, or 3/3 (full) output. There are 6 coils on the stator .... each of the coils is series connected with the coil diametrically opposite to form 3 pairs. One of these pairs is brought out on one of the three lead wires (dunno which one without consulting my notes which are not with me at present), the other two pairs are parallel wired together and brought out on the other lead wire. The third lead wire is common to all pairs.

Wish I could post a circuit schematic, but cannot where I am. The following will have to suffice:

--------WWW--------WWW------------ lead 1

-------WWW---------WWW------]------ lead 2

------WWW---------WWW-------]

Ok, in the above sketch, a coil is represented by WWW, and ----- represents a wired connection. The two ] are wired together and thus the last four coils are in a series-parallel configuration. The third lead wire is common to all 3 coils on the left side. I am trying to schematically represent my explanation in words above.

I think lead 1 is the green/black and lead 2 is the green/yellow (really does not matter). The headlight (main) switch selected either lead 1, lead 2, or both. When lead 1 was selected, the alternator could only provide 1/3 of max amperage, and lead 2 was an open circuit. When lead2 was selected, 2/3 max amps was available, and lead1 was open circuit. For full output, both lead1 and lead2 were joined (at the main switch).

This was the control method. Basically to wire the alternator into three parts and pick the combination of parts that best matched the load.

The Podtronics is meant to work with all coils in the circuit. A two wire stator simply has lead 1 and lead 2 internally connected, and only lead 1 is brought out, along with the common lead.

Refer to jeandr's post in General Motorcycle Discussion regarding voltage regulators. He shows how the Podtronics works by short circuiting the stator output to earth. In short, the difference is regulation by open circuit (the old original way) and regulation by short circuit (the Podtronics way).

Now to the specifics of your questions:

Converting to 12V is as easy as changing out all the lamps from 6 V to 12V. The alternator voltage is a function of the magnetic strength of the rotor and the number of turns in the coils. The voltage can get very high (1 - 2 hundred volts) if there is NO load or battery in the circuit. Without a regulator or battery, you will blow all the lamps. The Podtronic provides the regulation to clamp the maximum voltage to about 14 V by rapidly shorting/un-shorting the coils of the stator to earth.

With more load (running all lights), the Podtronics has less work to do (shorting/un-shorting) to keep the voltage at 14 max.

The Podtronics strains (your word) the stator more when there is less load as it directly shorts the output lead wire to earth as required to hold down the output voltage to 14. When the load is high, the load strains the stator. The best situation is to have a regulator open circuit the stator to hold the voltage to 14, but this type of regulation poses other problems and I know of no commercially available regulators that work that way. Regardless, as Triton Thrasher says, the stator takes the strain either way.

FWIW .... I have a 2 wire stator on my Atlas with a Podtronics regulator. I have a 2.5 AH battery to keep up the lights at idle. The battery also acts like a capacitor and "smooths" out the regulator. Furthermore, should the regulator fail, the battery will prevent the lamps from blowing. I do not have the original Lucas main switch, and my wiring thus departs from stock.

If I were to wire in a Podtronics unit to a stock Lucas main switch, and with a three wire stator, I would simply plug in the stator wires to their respective color match on the 3-way bullet, and let the Lucas switch send the proper lead wire to the regulator. Lights on is now required in most jurisdictions, and the main switch will connect all the stator coils in the "lights on" position, same as joining the lead wires as Podtronics suggests. With a 2 wire stator, I would connect the stator wire to the green/yellow. If memory serves me correctly, that should deliver full stator output to the lights/battery/regulator when the main switch is in lights on position.

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask again if I failed to clear it up.

Slick

Thanks Slick! How many Amps is the battery that you use? I don't have a battery box any longer and it would be nice to find something that is small enough to maybe be hidden in the headlamp shell or under the seat.
 
JohnnyMac wrote:

.Thanks Slick! How many Amps is the battery that you use? I don't have a battery box any longer and it would be nice to find something that is small enough to maybe be hidden in the headlamp shell or under the seat.

My battery is 2.5 AH. It is about the size of a pack of cigs. Mine is in the battery box which now has sufficient room to be a second tool box. I carry spare lamps, fuses, and a hex key for my headlight bucket (not the original screw) in the bat. box.

With a magneto, such a small battery is do-able, since the ignition is not dependent on battery power.

I have a drawing of the battery clip that holds my bat. I will PM it to you when I get off the road in 2 weeks.

Slick
 
Thanks Slick. I got my Atlas wired up today without the battery but wired for 12 Volts at the Podtronics regulator and honestly, it works really well without the battery. I cruised around town and had lights, brake light, horn. Admittedly, they obviously dim at idle... but I rarely (if ever) ride at night and think that this might just be perfect the way it is. I'd be interested to try out your battery but haven't been able to find a small 12v 2.5Ah battery. Where did you find it? Is it a lead battery, Lithium, etc?

Thanks!
 
Johnnymac said:
Thanks Slick. I got my Atlas wired up today without the battery but wired for 12 Volts at the Podtronics regulator and honestly, it works really well without the battery. I cruised around town and had lights, brake light, horn. Admittedly, they obviously dim at idle... but I rarely (if ever) ride at night and think that this might just be perfect the way it is. I'd be interested to try out your battery but haven't been able to find a small 12v 2.5Ah battery. Where did you find it? Is it a lead battery, Lithium, etc?

Thanks!

I am using one of those inexpensive sealed jel cells you can find at Batteries Plus. They are cheap, spill proof, maintenance free, and if you cradle them in some styrofoam to damp vibration, should give reasonably good service. Having a magneto is great! One does not have to be a servant to a battery! For my autos, I use only the best and biggest batteries I can stuff into the tray, but the magneto frees me from that.

Glad to hear your "sans battery" is working well.

Slick
 
The saga continues. Well, i thought that the lights were working great but I was wrong. As the RPMs increase to about 3 to 4K my lights get brighter but after that they get dimmer with the higher revs. I'm thinking that my old Lucas Rotor may be the culprit. What do you all think? I have a pretty good one in that I can swap out but don't have time today. Any thoughts?
 
Johnnymac said:
The saga continues. Well, i thought that the lights were working great but I was wrong. As the RPMs increase to about 3 to 4K my lights get brighter but after that they get dimmer with the higher revs. I'm thinking that my old Lucas Rotor may be the culprit. What do you all think? I have a pretty good one in that I can swap out but don't have time today. Any thoughts?

The laws of physics say more rpm = more voltage = brighter lights. The magnetic flux of the rotor should be constant, thus the rotor is not rpm dependent. I am thinking the regulator is causing your lights to dim at very hight revs. If the lights are bright enough at 3 - 4K, then the rotor is fine.

How much dimmer? If the lights still seem bright enough, I would not worry about it. If very much dimmer, such as not bright enough to run safely down the road at night, then something else is going on.

It would be best to measure the voltage at the battery terminals while you tach it up. Report the values.

Slick
 
texasSlick said:
Johnnymac said:
The saga continues. Well, i thought that the lights were working great but I was wrong. As the RPMs increase to about 3 to 4K my lights get brighter but after that they get dimmer with the higher revs. I'm thinking that my old Lucas Rotor may be the culprit. What do you all think? I have a pretty good one in that I can swap out but don't have time today. Any thoughts?

The laws of physics say more rpm = more voltage = brighter lights. The magnetic flux of the rotor should be constant, thus the rotor is not rpm dependent. I am thinking the regulator is causing your lights to dim at very hight revs. If the lights are bright enough at 3 - 4K, then the rotor is fine.

How much dimmer? If the lights still seem bright enough, I would not worry about it. If very much dimmer, such as not bright enough to run safely down the road at night, then something else is going on.

Slick

Thanks SLick. I forgot to mention that I tested the AC output of the stator before the regulator and it also dipped with higher RPMs.
 
JohnnyMac wrote:

Thanks SLick. I forgot to mention that I tested the AC output of the stator before the regulator and it also dipped with higher RPMs.

Most weird! Not what I would expect.

Measure the DC volts at the bat. terminals @ 2K, 3K, 4K, and 5K rpm and report back

Slick

On second thought, the stator AC voltage would drop if the regulator were "kicking in". Do the above, then report.
 
Back
Top