pazon vs boyer (2012)

I,ve been running Boyer electronic on my MK3 for quite a few years and have had a lot of problems with kick-back ,shut downs, poor idle and misfires. I finally got fed up and bought me a sure fire pazon. What a difference, no kick-back on start-ups, runs like a Swiss Watch, idles great and has restored my confidence in the ole Norton. Word of advice if you are looking for a electronic ignition buy a pazon. Easy to install and no more expensive than a Boyer. I bought mine from Steadfast cycles on E;bay for $132.00 and $10.00 shipping. Just thought I would spread the word!!!!! Hershey

I've had the same excellent results with my Sure Fire.
Holds retard down to 8 volts so no kickback.
The Pazon folks are in New Zealand . Originally they worked in development for Boyer but left to start their own business when they could see a better way to make a competing product. See their site. http://www.pazon.com/
I bought mine directly from NZ and came very fast but it looks like Steadfast's price slightly better.

I installed the Pazon after having my Boyer bite the dust last year----I now have a spare pazon just in case but so far so good---seems to run a bit smoother with the pazon and easier to install than the Boyer. If this Pazon holds up for several more years---probably not go back to Boyar.

Andy's Surefire Pazon setup transformed my bike into the 21st Century...unlike the Sparx system my "restorer" put on my bike after my complete "restoration" (but that's another story).

Shift to present: With the Pazon...1st kick starting after 3 - 4 weeks in the garage...slightly low battery not a problem like Sparx or Boyer...rock steady 1000 RPM idle...unbelievable acceleration and reliable performance in looming roadway curve downshifts. This EI system, paired with my TM34 flatslide carbs, is the best performance my bike has seen in the 34 years I've owned her..couldn't be happier!

Not sure if anyone else has tried the new Old Britts Power Arc ignition but i just orderd their full setup for my 71 cafe build hoping it works good ! im still a few weeks out from first start up but i have the cash :twisted: and wanted to get it before the wifie finds a better( HAND BAGS OR SOMETHING) use for the money ..Its pricey but its a all in one kit , no outside box ,Clean simple install.

Has anyone heard of issues with the fit or clearances of the trigger unit, to point it don't trigger sparks?

I put a Old Britts Power Arc on a 74 850 easy as pie and works perfect and can choose one of two different ign. curves or put a toggle switch on to change or select the other curve as you like! Starts easy Idles great and no problems at all for a year of use so far.

cmessenk said:

Andy's Surefire Pazon setup transformed my bike into the 21st Century...unlike the Sparx system my "restorer" put on my bike after my complete "restoration" (but that's another story).

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ha - that thread still makes me chuckle! :shock:

Can you feel a difference between advance curves? Like if you switched it in the middle of a second gear blast, could you feel the engine improve or go flat with one curve more than the other? Could it just be all in the mind ya'know?

batrider said:

Can you feel a difference between advance curves? Like if you switched it in the middle of a second gear blast, could you feel the engine improve or go flat with one curve more than the other? Could it just be all in the mind ya'know?

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Well Old britts instructions say: The White ignition module wire is used to select one of the two ignition curves (maps). When this wire is connected to -12 VDC the standard curve is used by the ignition module. When this wire is not connected to anything the more aggressive curve is used by the ignition module. This wire can be connected to an optional switch that has the other side of the switch connected to -12 VDC.
Iv'e never found a switch to mount on the handle bars yet for selecting the two curves so when I hooked it up I insulated the end of the white wire (for later use) and didn't use it there by only using the more aggressive curve. Now I will say that I think it's got way way better punch than the Boyer MK4 that I removed. I've been so happy with it the way it is I may never hook up a switch! I will also mention that Fred set the rev limiter on the unit at 6800 rpm but I've never found that a problem with me sofar and I feel I can't over rev past red line. Ella said that Fred will make changes to the unit if needed for your special needs.

hobot said:

Has anyone heard of issues with the fit or clearances of the trigger unit, to point it don't trigger sparks?

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Yep - its all true. Confirmed with Andy at Pazon (great service) he sent me the Surefire magnetic spinner specs and I made up a new one, 3mm longer. Problem as reported before is that the nose of my cam and its hollow taper (on my 850) is 1/8" (3mm) short. Could be any make of cam I dunno. The SureFire pick up plate trigger poles did not align directly over the mini magnets which caused a hard to start issue. Swapping the whole IE over to a 750 showed it worked just fine, and putting a Boyer into the 850 showed it worked OK, so there had to be a mechanical reason. Thats when the measuring started and revealed the differnce between Boyer pick up pole length and width of their magnets. OK, so now I have a longer spinner and the Surefire works fine. Would I make a bunch of them? No. reason is that the clearance between the spinner face and the back plate is critical. If the spinner touches the solder points on the back plate it shorts out the pick ups. DIstance is hard to measure and somewhat dependent on how deep the taper seats. Man, I had the sucker in and out on the lathe half a dozen times taking a poofteenth off at a time and used a Dremel grinder to dress down the solder points just to be sure.

Pazon agreed with the above and vouch that they will be making (in future) new pick up plates with 3mm longer poles. That takes care of every contingency.

Here's the modified vs original Surefire spinner and followed by the original Surefire compared to a Boyer.

Mick

All you aussie's like to brag that yours is longer - looks like you proved it - nice! :shock: :mrgreen:

ML said:

hobot said:

Has anyone heard of issues with the fit or clearances of the trigger unit, to point it don't trigger sparks?

Click to expand...

Yep - its all true. Confirmed with Andy at Pazon (great service) he sent me the Surefire magnetic spinner specs and I made up a new one, 3mm longer. Problem as reported before is that the nose of my cam and its hollow taper (on my 850) is 1/8" (3mm) short. Could be any make of cam I dunno. The SureFire pick up plate trigger poles did not align directly over the mini magnets which caused a hard to start issue. Swapping the whole IE over to a 750 showed it worked just fine, and putting a Boyer into the 850 showed it worked OK, so there had to be a mechanical reason. Thats when the measuring started and revealed the differnce between Boyer pick up pole length and width of their magnets. OK, so now I have a longer spinner and the Surefire works fine. Would I make a bunch of them? No. reason is that the clearance between the spinner face and the back plate is critical. If the spinner touches the solder points on the back plate it shorts out the pick ups. DIstance is hard to measure and somewhat dependent on how deep the taper seats. Man, I had the sucker in and out on the lathe half a dozen times taking a poofteenth off at a time and used a Dremel grinder to dress down the solder points just to be sure.

Pazon agreed with the above and vouch that they will be making (in future) new pick up plates with 3mm longer poles. That takes care of every contingency.

Here's the modified vs original Surefire spinner and followed by the original Surefire compared to a Boyer.

Mick

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@ Nortarly , sweet cant wait to get it installed i think im going to put in a switch just for the hell of it :twisted:

Thanks for this. My Boyer started acting up because my battery fluid was low. I had less than 1,000 miles on it. Temporarily using points. Guess I'll give the Pazon a try.

You wont regret it. Mine has been a great easy starter and smooth runner
Dereck

Britfan60 said:

Thanks for this. My Boyer started acting up because my battery fluid was low. I had less than 1,000 miles on it. Temporarily using points. Guess I'll give the Pazon a try.

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Boyers like decent voltage. Have you replaced the battery? Check wiring, connectors and switches before spending money on a new ignition.

I have a 40-year-old original Boyer ignition in the SS clone that I transferred from the 750 engine to the 850 in the mid-80s and has been there ever since. When all else is right, starts first kick, no kickback and tolerates quite a bit of battery drain before it gives up. If the charging system is doing it's job and the battery is good, the Boyer performs as advertised.

FWIW, in the early '90's I installed a basic Boyer and Dyna coils on my R90S workhorse. It hasn't missed a beat since. Haven't decided what to put on my Combat rebuild yet.

Same here, ancient Boyer on two Nortons, both generally 1 kick starters cold or hot, idle, run smooth and pull hard.
Tough to find fault with it really, just keep the voltage above 11.5 and you are OK.
Only fault might be for e-starting. Newer ignitions that will work with the voltage drop from the starter seem like a good plan.

Glen

Boyer have been reformulated so they hold their timing at low battery voltages same as Pazons.