Painting stick on decals

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DogT

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Hi,

Trying to put some clear coat over the stick on decals from Old Britts (Andover decals). When I spray either clear enamel or clear lacquer over the decals, they bubble up. Is this preventable or am I barking up the wrong tree? Do I need different type of decal? This is what happens. Paint is Duplicolor Metal Flake Blue enamel and clear coat is either enamel or lacquer, the lac bubbles up worse than the enamel.

Painting stick on decals


Painting stick on decals


Dave
 
They're transfers rather than stickers aren't they ? They weren't originally lacquered.

I think that they'll react with most solvents. The 3M die-cuts are easier to handle but don't have the edging and are not correct for early bikes.

The only spray lacquer that you'll get away with would probably be 2-pack put on carefully. The other alternative is a small amount of modelling varnish but it will always show.
 
Bad luck :(

I've got to put some waterslide decals on a tank and I'm not looking forwards to it either.

I believe the only way with modern lacquers is to VERY gently apply the lightest dust coat possible, and repeat a few times after a suitable pause for the lacquer to dry in between coats.
Hopefully it'll then take a gloss coat without any adverse reaction once these layers are through-dry.

Another possibility is to coat them with Johnsons Future floor wax (Kleer in the UK) before lacquering. Its acrylic based and pretty neutral.

Hope this helps, and I hope you can retrieve the paintwork without too much hassle.
Great colour, BTW - a personal favourite ;)
 
Well, the decals are not water transfer. They come with paper on both sides, remove one side, rub the decal on the surface and peel back the other paper and they stick to the surface. I haven't done any work on the real panels yet, this is just a test job on a piece of aluminum before I start messing with the real ones. The Duplicolor Metal flake blue is not bad, especially when clear coated, but the flakes are nowhere as large as the original, plus there are no black flakes like the original. I may try again with just the slightest amount of clear enamel, but I doubt if it is going to work, I may have to paint the logos on. I notice that the "Norton" decal I have for the tank seems not to have a large gold reveal as the original as I remember.

How were the originals done on the fireflake blue, painted or covered decals? When I sanded the black off my panel, I could still see where the original Commando 750 "S" was.

Dave
 
As far as I'm aware, Nortons never lacquered their transfers / stickers and even on NOS parts they look 'aged'

You could leave them bare as original and simply replace them when they get tatty :?
 
So you are saying that the originals were just what I have now (Andover decals from Old Britts) and they were not covered? I don't remember them being that fragile, but maybe they were. I guess I could live with just sticking them on and being careful, they are only a few bucks each.

Dave
 
Did you try calling Old Britts and see if they had any recommendations? They are really helpful people...
 
I did call and talk to Ella about what kind of decals they are, but not about coating them. I just now tried several very fine coats of clear enamel and they still bubble. I'll call Ella again.
 
DogT said:
I just now tried several very fine coats of clear enamel and they still bubble.

Pity - although the idea is to not let the solvents in the paint attack the decal, so the dust coats need to dry thoroughly between coats...a very tricky operation.

If you know a vinyl stencil supplier you could get masks made, but it may get a bit costly...

I have used Kleer (Future) on waterslides in the past and it did work very well - the Kleer is totally transparent with no yellowing, so isn't visible.
 
Is the multi color decal painted? It may be the paint that's reacting.

I've painted over solid color decals (silver and gold) and vinyl striping a number of times with urethane clear. I always scuff them up first with Presta Scuff Stuff to give the clear something to bite into, else you risk delaminating.

Painting stick on decals
 
Maybe I'll try some water based clear finishes. I'll keep experimenting.

Dave
 
If you know a vinyl stencil supplier you could get masks made, but it may get a bit costly...

Fred and Ella supply the stencils as well as the die-cut "stickers".

Originally the Commandos had the die-cut logos applied directly to the paint and not cleared over.

Your problem is with the solvents in the clear you are using. Lacquer type solvents are too aggressive. Cool weather enamel reducer may also be too aggressive.

I have used (PPG) DC3000 two-pack Hi-Velocity clear with both stenciled logos and die-cut letters from Fred and Ella with no problems.

Maylar,
Great looking tank! What is the base and color you used for that color? Been wanting to do a set in red so I can switch between Interstate and Roadster on my 850.
 
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