original carbs ??? - help ID'ing

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update. after all comments on this thread, I've decided that I didn't need new carbs after all. i ordered up new stay-up floats, amal rebuild kits, and brass float bowl drain plugs. i found a sealed baggie with new (brass) viton float needles in the parts stash, so I think i've got everything covered for less than $100. carb internals were pretty clean, so it should be an easy rebuild.

new premiers would have set me back around $375, so I have some extra cash in the kitty. I read over a couple threads on a single cable system from forum member Don Madass, and after reviewing several threads and about a dozen pics, I decided to bite the bullet and ordered up the linkage kit. Don sent it out the next day, and I had it within a week. i'll probably zip down to my local NAPA dealer tomorrow for a gallon of carb cleaner, and should be able to wrap up the rebuild sometime next week. i'm in florida, and as of right now, i'm thinking of eliminating the carb chokes, but leaving it open as an option (ordered up a couple plugs just in case). still missing the rear air filter plate and filter element, so i'll probably be placing an order for some odds and ends from old brits fairly soon. that should pretty much wrap up the carbs and induction system. again, thanks to everyone for all the help.

joe c

BTW, probably doesn't mean much, but for general information purposes, my 850 Mk2 is a August '74 build, w/ 319523 engine, trans, frame number. ;)
 
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i found a sealed baggie with new (brass) vitron float needles in the parts stash, so I think i've got everything covered for less than $100.

http://amalcarb.co.uk/optimising-mark-1-concentric-fuel-levels
"Needle Valve

If your float chamber is fitted with a brass needle valve, you may find the valve sealing under its own weight, before the float has risen far enough to press it shut. Symptoms of this problem can be that the carburetter takes a long time to tickle, hesitates on pickup and does not idle reliably. A Viton tipped aluminium needle valve is now available that overcomes this problem. It is now fitted as standard equipment to all new Mark 1 Concentric carburetter
s."
 
http://amalcarb.co.uk/optimising-mark-1-concentric-fuel-levels
"Needle Valve

If your float chamber is fitted with a brass needle valve, you may find the valve sealing under its own weight, before the float has risen far enough to press it shut. Symptoms of this problem can be that the carburetter takes a long time to tickle, hesitates on pickup and does not idle reliably. A Viton tipped aluminium needle valve is now available that overcomes this problem. It is now fitted as standard equipment to all new Mark 1 Concentric carburetter
s."
here's the kit I bought - it has an aluminum float needle. i'm guesing it could be a viton, but I don't know for sure. I would think new rebuild kits would come with newer valves. it sounds like the aluminum valve would be the better choice. thanks for the update....

edit - looking at the float kit, it looks like it may come with an aluminum needle valve. hopefully, in the paperwork, it will spec out viton.

original carbs ??? - help ID'ing
 
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here's the kit I bought - it has an aluminum float needle. i'm guesing it could be a vitron, but I don't know for sure. I would think new rebuild kits would come with newer valves. it sounds like the aluminum valve would be the better choice. thanks for the update....

original carbs ??? - help ID'ing

They are viton, so are the older brass needles and have been for some years.

http://amalcarb.co.uk/light-weight-aluminium-needle-valve-with-viton-tip.html
http://amalcarb.co.uk/needle-valve-viton-tipped-7023.html
 
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