original carbs ??? - help ID'ing

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L.A.B. said:
That looks like a chromed or sleeved slide?
Slide and carb appear to be in good condition.
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will this help identifying the slide? on the inside, it's marked "GAYLORD PRODUCTS", 3-1/2 (I understand that part) and what appears to be "MIKE" or "MIKF". the surface edge look to be sleeved - ???

original carbs ??? - help ID'ing
 
joe czech said:
so, i'm taking this Mike Gaylord slide is a good thing - ???
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Yes, it should be.

joe czech said:
also, when I opened the carb, the clip on the needle was on the center groove, whereas the service manual spec'd the top groove. during the rebuild, should I go with the factory setting? do I need to be looking into anything that would cause a previous owner to move the needle clip?
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I suggest you leave the needles/clips where they are to begin with and see how it runs.
 
kommando said:
They do not show excessive wear in the body so buy Anodised slides to stop the potential wear now, they will then have the Premier upgrade for the body/slide, then you can decide if you want to upgrade the pilot so it's easy to clean or stay as is and use the #78 drill mounted in a WD40 tube for annual drilling out. That still leaves the stay up float and the aluminium float needle and any worn needle and needle jets but going by the body these may be ok for now and the rest can follow on once the bike is running.

The excessive wear comes from both body and slide being made from the same material which promotes galling.
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OK, my carbs have brass float needle, but a whitish plastic float. with the needle clip being in the wrong position, sleeved slides, etc., it appears that someone has gone through these carbs at least once newer style floats are on order for the rebuild. anything else?
 
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I would leave them as is other than the floats and float needle but what you have would work if you can't wait. The slide is sleeved so that's covered wear wise and the needle is higher which will give you a richer mixture for running in. So you are left with checking the pilot jet by using a #78 drill and checking the pilot fuel circuit is clear including the 2 tiny holes inside just in front of the needle spray tube in the yellow area 'Pilot mixing chamber'.

original carbs ??? - help ID'ing


Longer term I would change the float bowl drains from nylon to brass and the nylon fuel pipe connectors to the cast version.
 
joe czech said:
OK, my carbs have brass float needle
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I recommend you replace with the latest alloy float needles and set by fuel level as recommended by Amal.

http://amalcarb.co.uk/optimising-mark-1-concentric-fuel-levels

Edit:
With white floats this is achieved by raising or lowering the brass needle seating:
original carbs ??? - help ID'ing




joe czech said:
but a whitish plastic float.
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As long as they are not leaking then they are fine although they can be replaced with the latest Stay-Up type.


joe czech said:
with the needle clip being in the wrong position,
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Service Release (N3/48) May 1973 issued to dealers stated that 850 needles should be raised to the central notch as the original needle setting was considered to be too weak so the middle groove is probably correct.
 
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joe czech said:
OK, my carbs have brass float needle, but a whitish plastic float. with the needle clip being in the wrong position, sleeved slides, etc., it appears that someone has gone through these carbs at least once newer style floats are on order for the rebuild. anything else?
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I told you so :)
Brass needles worked properly in my BSA carbs, but you can go to alu float needles and most important are needle jets.
Also important is to make sure they are properly made, friends from Trident forum had some problems with them lately.
 
Looks like you've lucked out with those carbs mate
Well done they will last better than brand new
 
I really don't know how to put this so I'll just come right out with it....They're junk, so they need to be packed up and sent to me post haste for proper disposal before someone loses an eye or worse.
Those look to be in very close to excellent shape with the promise of much good service ahead for you. If only mine had so little wear from wrestling the polar bears.

Mine has to run with needle clipped on top groove or risk fouling within 40-50 miles all the while popping out the exhaust in a progressively worsening fashion until refusing to run.
 
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thanks to all for the comments, and an additional thanks to L.A.B. much help and most important, learned a little.... ;)
 
You 've got. A nice pair there mate!

Not sure why no ones posted this yet, but here is the very thorough Bushmans guide to sorting the Amals :
http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans Carb Tuning.html

Pay a lot of attention to the pilot jet servicing section and confirm fuel can travel up the pickup opening to the tiny openings in the car b throat.
 
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quick question on rebuild kits - current, new factory amal rebuild kits - do they come with VITON float needles, or is this something i should order as a separate line item? for a rebuild, besides the rebuild kits, i'm going to add brass float bowl drain plugs, and stay-up floats, is there anything else I need to add to the list? thanks....
 
joe czech said:
quick question on rebuild kits - current, new factory amal rebuild kits - do they come with VITON float needles, or is this something i should order as a separate line item? for a rebuild, besides the rebuild kits, i'm going to add brass float bowl drain plugs, and stay-up floats, is there anything else I need to add to the list? thanks....
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My kits of gaskets and seals came with viton tipped float valves. These are the white metal ones (not original brass) and I believe are all that are now sold.
 
I had an ancient kit with brass\viton & new one with cr\viton when I rebuilt this past fall. The stay up floats ordered separately.
 
joe czech said:
quick question on rebuild kits - current, new factory amal rebuild kits - do they come with VITON float needles, or is this something i should order as a separate line item? for a rebuild, besides the rebuild kits, i'm going to add brass float bowl drain plugs, and stay-up floats, is there anything else I need to add to the list? thanks....
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This.

http://www.oldbritts.com/40_622238.html

And this
http://www.oldbritts.com/alt_067842.html

And the rest of the stuff you list from OB too.

Do you have the connecting hardware?

Di you have the stock ham can air.filter housing? If not get a K&N 0990 filter (though that is somewhat controversial if you are anti K&N.

You will likely need a balance pipe hose for between the carbs and fuel lines too. A later type, not H type.
 
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Joe Czech. I noticed in your pictures that a cut away spray tube is fitted in the carb body. I believe these were used with the plastic air box and black cap silencers. (not sure what air box you have fitted).
 
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justin scroope said:
Joe Czech. I noticed in your pictures that a cut away spray tube is fitted in the carb body. I believe these were used with the plastic air box and black cap silencers. (not sure what air box you have fitted).
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The 928/107 stepped spray tube (and 928/104 needle) was standard specification for all 850 Commando carbs.
 
L.A.B. Thanks for the information. I did,nt know that. My 850 mk 2 engine number 313796, purchased second hand with 8000 miles on the speedo around 1985, had 32 mm mk 1 amals with full spray tubes, 106 needle jet, 2 groove needles, 260 main jets and 30mm manifolds. The bike was fast but it would flame out when stopping if the throttle was,nt feathered.
 
A plug for Gaylord sleeved carbs. I had Mike do my 932s on my ‘72 combat in 1998. Over 35,000 miles since and they are still working great. He bored the bodies to make them round and accept the over sized sleeves on the slides.
 
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