oil fliter bracket hose fittings?

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850commando said:
i am a bit uncomfortable using the straight steel fittings (no hose barbs) and would like to replace them with barb type fittings.

Question is how are the factory straight pipes installed? are they threaded in or just a press fit?

https://www.oldbritts.com/13_063139.html shows it


They are just a press fit. Easy to get out. Drill bit in the center an a pair of vise grips clamped on the outside and pull and twist.

I tap them with 1/8th pipe thread and install real fittings. I use JB weld on the threads as the hole is slightly too big to get a perfect 1/8 pipe thread profile. Jim
 
An option to Jim's method is to use a flare tool to put a small "lip" on the end of the straight tubes. There is also a tool to swage a raised ring around the outside of a tube by rolling a knurling wheel around the inside. Dunno the name of this tool, but it would be my method of choice.

Finally, one could place a ferrule on the straight tube and JB weld or LocTite it in place. This solution might be too much of a "stretch" for some.

Slick
 
Has anybody had one of the pipes come out of the alloy casting? if you have access to a lathe you could turn up some barbs and soft solder them in place. Might be worth using some kind of heat sink between the end of the tube and the casting. Some copper wire maybe, but try not to solder the wire to the job :lol:
 
Unless they are loose/leaking from the tube to housing joint, they should seal the low pressure just fine at the hose to tube. A proper, round clamp is critical. JMWO
 
gripper said:
Has anybody had one of the pipes come out of the alloy casting? if you have access to a lathe you could turn up some barbs and soft solder them in place. Might be worth using some kind of heat sink between the end of the tube and the casting. Some copper wire maybe, but try not to solder the wire to the job :lol:

Yes, I have seen a couple of them come out of the housing. Not a common problem but the result can be disastrous.
Not only does it run the motor out of oil quickly but it also coats the back wheel with the oil. After seeing it happen to someone else, I installed threaded fittings. Jim
 
comnoz said:
.....Not a common problem but the result can be disastrous.
Not only does it run the motor out of oil quickly but it also coats the back wheel with the oil. After seeing it happen to someone else, I installed threaded fittings. Jim
Another reason I love this forum :D I'm always learning from others on these threads, thanks for posting. I was going to buy the machined junction block that Steve Maney makes, 1) because it seems to be nicely made and 2) because it is about the only thing of Steves that I could afford right now :(
 
Personally I removed the original ones and made new threaded ones which were locktited in AND employed PROPER hose clips ...stainless steel ones that go around the pipe twice tightening up on the pipe 360 degrees rather than those crappy jubilee clips ....... Some of the clips had a nut type head on them for finger tightening and had a Norton part number. Others as we employed in the defence industry for the Navy had a screwdriver slot for tightening .... Next time I go into my garage I will take a look and see if they have a name on them but memory tells me they dont...... I cannot find them on the web.
Minox make beautiful fully stainless jubilee type clips ideal for clamping fork gaiters on.... Many decades ago I asked Jubilee if they manufactured fully stainless ones in the UK and was told they did NOT because in their experience U K workers were incapable of correctly tightening them with torque screwdrivers and the failure to do so was resulting in worm mechanism failures so they did NOt sell them with stainless worm mechanisms in the UK......So much for a skilled UK worforce!
I dont know if they are still available but at one time the Chief Designer at Crosland Filters Ltd wrote telling me of a shorter filter that fitted the Norton housing. He also recommended it be changed after every 200 racing miles use!!
Now where is that letter.... found it ... 10 June 1987.....'We do manufacture a spin oil oil filter with a similar mounting to rthe 673 which is 59mm long insrtead of 79mm for the former'. The part number is 2030. The filtration area is half that of the 673 and the relief valveis 8-12 lb/sq inch . This should be satisfactory for 200 miles use providing the down stream oil pressure isa satisfactory'.
The 673 was the Crosland filter number given to the filter employed originally by Norton.

Just to amuse and possibly worry some people!! Many years ago I cut up a few different Norton fitting oil filters and sent them for examination to a certain Gentleman working for a certain Italian filter manufacturer. The results were 'interesting' .

PAPER..........MEAN PORE SIZE (microns) ...PAPER THICKNESS (mm)....PAPER AREA (Sq inches).
Fram PH2964 29.2 0.59 165
Wipac CA111 25.7 0.44 105
Norton 27.8 0.53 153
TJ L094 26.5 0.72 144
AND JUST TO AMUSE MYSELF I HAD A COOPERS TRIUMPH 3 FiTER CHECKED........
COOPER. Triumph. 24.6 0.61 52.

Funny how the Triumph change mileages were, if memory is correct, the same as for the much larger area Norton filter.........For decades I have wondered how many BSA and Triumph 3s were/ are ploughing around with the filter element totally blocked and the filter running in full byepas doing sweet nothing to filter the oil going to the engine.....
Persaonally I have never bought another Wipac filter in my life. I suspect the motor cycle dealer dealer flogging them for Nortons bought them VERY cheaply at Maccess or some other outlet.....abhout 45 pence each in those days......
 
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