Oil feed lines

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Jan 10, 2006

Today I've taken the bike for a long ride and only God knows in which point of the ride the oil feed line that goes to the cylinder head has gone off. The bike has taken me home and I've realized when I've stopped it and seen the paddle behind the bike and my wife has seen my trousers. Scary...

Is there a trick to keep this line in it's place?
Has any of you put steel oil feed lines on the bike?
Do they sell 'em here in Europe?
Does a Norton ever go fine for a long time?
Is Carbon 14 accurate and reliable?
Questions and more questions...

Hey sparkplug, remove the original plastic oil lines that feed the rockers,fit stainless steel braided lines, much more secure and look good too. Mick Hemming or Norvil, both in the UK stock this item.I fitted s/s oil lines on my 850 a few yearsago, no problems.A well cared for Norton will carry you for many miles and many years without problems, the key words -- cared for!!. Ride safely, James.
Thanks for the help, James. I've been thinking for too long about this, just because I thought this lines were expensive.
Now I realize they're not.


Finally got the new oil lines, bike started fine, but after riding a mile or so, it began misfiring. Plugs were black (dry) and bike wouldn't start without getting them well cleaned. This allowed me to return home. Now to get it started I need to clean the plugs everytime. It idles fine, but as soon as I try to ride, it does exactly the same... I've checked carb and ignition and they seem to be fine... Have I broken anything into the cylinder head after my oil lines incident?

Thanks everyone!
It's your battery from the long lay over. Low oil could make it a oil burner but it's unlikley. New battery and new plugs how are your plug wires?
I have new battery, new pvl coils, new plug wires and caps, new boyer ignition, new wiring harness... :?
The oil line coming loose would have drastically reduced the oil pressure at the big ends, how that translates into sooty plugs is beyond me, only suggestion I have is worn guides but the head would have been happy with a teaspoon of oil every minute.
plastic lines vs stainless

Have you guys had problems with the stock plastic lines? My bike has homemade lines that I want to replace. Is the stainless the way to go vs the plastic or is it just a matter of asthetics?
kommando said:
but the head would have been happy with a teaspoon of oil every minute.

I agree with you, Kommando, but this is the only thing (that I could notice)that happened before it began misfiring and doing all the rest.
Well, I've also found out that one of the bolts of the cylinder head was a little loosen so I thightened it again, but the bike kept on missfiring...
To not hijack Sparkplugs thread, see my reply in a new thread.
Hi sparkplug, it sounds to me like a carbie problem, if the plugs are black and dry or sooty it might be to rich, if it idles ok but misfires when running the needles may have to be moved to a different position, in my experience if it is idling nice and smoothly but runs like a pig then it is not the pilot air screw but the needle position that's the problem.
Have you checked your grounds to the motor, to the new coils, to the harrness ? What kind of plugs? norbsa
There's a suspicious wire earthing the ignition on the Lh coil that could be doing something strange.
I've used 3 kinds of plugs: Champion N7Y, NGK (equivalent can't remember) and Champion with 3 electrodes which probably gave the best results...
Let me check the wiring... :wink:
The needle restricts the amount of fuel that enters the carbie, the lower into the jet the needle sits the less fuel that's allowed in and the leaner it runs, i run mine in the middle groove it works well there.
Mine is in the middle right now too and used to go fine before... Should I lower it then? I've also thought that Madrid (that's where I live) is some 2000ft high... Thanks.
If as you say the bike idles well but wont run under acceleration you may try dropping the needle one groove, it may be sucking air somewhere else, the air filter may need a clean and just check the air ports in the body where the air cleaner attaches aren't covered or blocked by anything.
At the end I decided to change the cylinder head gasket and the piston rings as someone told me it could be a compression problem. After doing this, the bike started first kick and went fine, until I decided after a couple minutes ride, the time for rising the revs a little. In just 1 minute of riding at between 2000 and 4500 revs the engine got stucked and as soon as I grabbed the clutch, it stalled, firing normally again a few seconds later. Now I'm afraid I've dammaged something in there and all my work has been sent into the garbage can! Tomorrow I'll try to start it as nothing had happened and try to ride it smoothly in the surroundings until I feel more comfident and able to take it for a longer ride.
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