O-ring chain

Anyone ever use one on a Commando? Is there enough clearance up by the drive sprocket? I'm due for a chain and I'm a great believer in o-ring and x-ring chains for longevity of service.

I've got a 530 on my MK3. Jim Comstock suggested it would drop right on there and, sure enough, it did. I believe the earlier Commandos require a changeover to 520 sprockets, not sure on that though.

I agree, sealed chain is the way to go. I just replaced one my touring bike at 24,000 miles with a couple of rubber seals shredded. You still could barely move the chain off the back of the rear sprocket, virtually no wear on the links or sprocket teeth. When the chain doesn't wear, the pitch doesn't change and sprocket wear is also greatly reduced.

Glen

Mine is MK III driveline-wise. What brand of o-ring chain did you use? I have put over 30K miles on my ZX-14 with the same chain, lubing every 300 miles or once per day on trips and it shows no sign of being worn out. It's an EK ZZZ which is top-of-the-line. I have a small section of it leftover that I could splice in to see if it will clear, but it's considerably wider than the non-o ring 530 that's on there now.

I used an rk530 x ring on the Commando, no issues.

Glen

Thanks, Glen

If needed, point the joint link inward so it doesn't gouge the inner primary.
Ta.

Search '530 x ring chain on a mk111' the DID x ring is the smallest diameter I could find and works fine. And its the gearbox clearance which is critical not the primary so install the link facing outwards as normal.

I have just recently replaced my normal chain after loosing a main joining link it had well over 30,000 miles on it, if you look after your chains they will last a very long time, I replaced it with one of Andy's chains and when I layed the old chain beside the new one it was still the same lenght, so had no strech at all, I pull my chain off every 6 months, give them a good clean and soak them in hot gear box oil and have been doing this for over 40 years now, just got to make sure there are no tight spots in the chain and keep them well lubbed.

Ashley

I always used a rivet type master link on my MK3 with the o-ring chain. No clearance issues at all. Jim

Yes i would also use the rivet link

if you buy a high end x or o ring chain they only normally supply rivet type links for connection

ashman said:

I have just recently replaced my normal chain after loosing a main joining link it had well over 30,000 miles on it, if you look after your chains they will last a very long time, I replaced it with one of Andy's chains and when I layed the old chain beside the new one it was still the same lenght, so had no strech at all, I pull my chain off every 6 months, give them a good clean and soak them in hot gear box oil and have been doing this for over 40 years now, just got to make sure there are no tight spots in the chain and keep them well lubbed.

Ashley

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I used to always have 2 chains. When one would come off the other would go on. I'd soak the of chain in gearbox oil for a few days and then hang it over the pan to drain the excess.

But for a few bucks more, I will go with the lower-maintenance sealed chain and avoid the trouble.

comnoz said:

I always used a rivet type master link on my MK3 with the o-ring chain. No clearance issues at all. Jim

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Will do. It's a no-brainer with the Commando stub axle not even having to be loosened to pull the rear wheel. I have the chain rivet tool.

Frankie17 said:

Yes i would also use the rivet link

if you buy a high end x or o ring chain they only normally supply rivet type links for connection

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Yeah, last night I pulled a section of EK ZZZ through the gap and it slid through, no problem.

I've had the 520 O-ring conversion from CNW on the bike for a couple of years now. One of the best things I have done to the bike, IMO. One of these days I might find the need to adjust it but that hasn't happened yet…

Danno said:

ashman said:

I have just recently replaced my normal chain after loosing a main joining link it had well over 30,000 miles on it, if you look after your chains they will last a very long time, I replaced it with one of Andy's chains and when I layed the old chain beside the new one it was still the same lenght, so had no strech at all, I pull my chain off every 6 months, give them a good clean and soak them in hot gear box oil and have been doing this for over 40 years now, just got to make sure there are no tight spots in the chain and keep them well lubbed.

Ashley

Click to expand...

I used to always have 2 chains. When one would come off the other would go on. I'd soak the of chain in gearbox oil for a few days and then hang it over the pan to drain the excess.

But for a few bucks more, I will go with the lower-maintenance sealed chain and avoid the trouble.

Click to expand...

What I like about the sealed chain is that after a three or four thousand mile trip it doesn't need adjustment. In fact, with sealed chain, once you start having to adjust it a couple of times, it is time for a new chain. When the seals are in place there is virtually no wear. I find that after a very high mileage, the seals do eventually let go, then wear is rapid as with a standard chain.

With conventional chain I would have to adjust mid trip and then again at home. Of course each adjustment means wear has occurred and the chain pitch has changed. I never got more than 10,000 miles from a standard chain and often less. I have tried all of the top brands.
know guys who would leave them on much longer, generally to the point of failure, but once the chain can be lifted halfway off the sprocket teeth at back, the whole setup is worn out. From that point on, it might keep turning the wheel for a long time, or the teeth might come off a sprocket on the next hard take off, or the chain might part on the freeway as happened to one buddy who ran worn out standard chain. Fortunately, it did not hit any of us riding behind as that could mean death. We actually found the chain on the newly mown Freeway Median strip, but it did not look like a chain. It looked like a giant caterpillar. The dry grass clippings stuck to it as it rolled along the median (California in summer). At least he had been lubing it well!

Another clubmate scoffs at the idea of sealed chain because he claims to runs his standard chain for huge mileages. Last time he made this point I showed him how at the back of the sprocket his chain could be lifted completely clear off the very hooked sprocket teeth. Worn out and then some, but still going!

Glen

Scored a 100-link EK SRX530 X-ring chain for $50 shipped. Thanks all for the replies.

That'll work great, no need for a ZZ Top chain on a 50 hp bike

Glen

My last heavy duty chain that i got well over 30,000 miles was only adjusted 2 time in its life, its been on for so long i can't even remember when i got it, the bike was off the road for a few years while chasing up some crank cases, but its was a better chain than the rubbish ones you get these days, I am running Andy's chain now and will see how many miles i will get out of that one, I don't mind taking my chain off to clean it, its not a hard job, its all part of maintenance and in 40 years of riding it I have only replaced the sprockets 2x, so I must be doing something right and my Norton has well over 140,000 miles from owning it new.

Ashley

There used to be a guy in the Int'l Norton Club that broke his bike down to nuts and bolts, including de-spoking the rims every winter just to polish everything. His bike looked better than new. Not me.

I also didn't know if it would work, but fitted a Renthal 530 x 120L R4 SRS and so far wow, smooth, quiet, no adjustment required. I used the rivet link when I fitted it as it looked to be a pretty tight fit particularly around the chain guard.