Norvil Head steady...worn out...fix?

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dave M said:
.....but I have looked again and you seem to have taken the DT concept and added a turnbuckle and possibly some different spec rose joints - or is that rose coloured spectacles? My powers of perception are pretty acute when it comes to parting with my money and I don't see this as worth nearly $400

If you like, we can take the personal attacks off line; that would be the polite thing to do.

You asked me to explain the differences; I believe I did that in an objective manner. In the spirit of this forum,let's stick to sharing experience and knowledge that contributes to the community. If I may digress for a bit - R&D costs, as well as production costs are a function of time and place. The TT unit is a product of 2001 knowledge and cost of labor. It is also a product that was developed to support my local economy, so when posed the question of where it could be made for the least cost, the decision was made to keep the work at home, rather than sent overseas. I see that as supportive of a cottage industry approach, hmm, where did that used to be a national way of life?

Now, to the experiences and the shared knowledge. I had a helluva time installing the DT unit simply because it did not fit properly to the frame of my '71 Roadster. Those who've fitted the unit know from personal experience that it is not a simple bolt on process. In some cases, depending on frame origin it will not clamp firmly, and it cannot be snugged far enough rearward for proper link alignment. More importantly, once one understands the benefits of the heim link, it is beneficial to then follow-through on the implications of its fit and function to the other joints - the isolastics.

Once one understands the geometry of the subframe, and its control of the rear wheel alignment, one will understand the benefits of a truly aligned frame and suspension. This cannot be achieved without having a perfectly aligned (vertical) engine. Much has been done by others - Stevan Thomas & Ken Augustine, Dr. Rob Tuluie, in analizing the faults, and describing the remedies, related to the production flaws in the Commando frame. It has been well established by many individuals that a heim link attachment will control, absolutely, the lateral and orbital gyrations of the original isolastic/motor arrangement. In a perfect world, the isolastics could be dialed down to an absolute minimal gap (pick your number) and the handling could be improved over the original manufactured bike. However, by virtue of the isolastic assembly's design some lateral (some would say excessive) movement is accepted; that's how the "isolation" is achieved without damage to the frame. It's interesting to note that the vast majority of Commandos on the road (not racing) use the oem headsteadies which are simply rubber donuts; and yet the vast majority of Commando riders will sincerely believe, often advocate, and frequently stridently defend, the idea that their particular Commando possesses "legendary" racing heritage quality handling. I submit that those who actually ride aggressively and push the bike to its limits will concede that the original handling of the Commando, in modern terms, is a poor, often dangerous, handling machine.

Regarding the heim link. You can obtain this product from a wide range of manufacturer sources, and in a wide range of qualties and price. Only one manufacturer, however, produces a "Heim" joint. All others are generic by name - Rose joint, Rod End, etc. That's how the marketplace operates - an individual invents and others participate in the evolutionary process. Would you prefer that each innovator who improved on the Heim Link concept had gone back to Mr. Heim and offered their ideas for improvement to him for gratis?

What led me to improving on the DT headsteady was the realization that certain compromises or concessions were made in its current form, for whatever reason, that prevent the unit from being "dialed-in" in situ. This is important if one wants to resolve the inherent misalignment of the motor/subframe/rear wheel assembly to the frame. Mr. Thomas points out that the best way to do this is to "blueprint" ,or reengineer, the frame in a machine shop via total disassembly and remachining of the mating surfaces. (see the articles, including "The World's Straightest Norton", by Thomas. My approach was to achieve a more reasonable compromised solution that can be achieved by those not so well equipped.

Based on my own prior experience with the Norvil headsteady (no aspersions intended), and the DT unit, it was clear that misalignment of the motor to the frame was the cause of early headsteady wear and subsequent loss of handling precision.

I can go on. I hope this helps to bring my purpose in this excercise back to a productive place. I have no intention to disparage Mr. Bob Trigg, Dr. Stefan Bauer, Mr. Taylor, Mr. Heim, "Mr." Norvil, Andover Norton, or any others who have contributed to the, hopefully, never ending PROCESS of advancing the performance of this cherished motorcycle. Anybody who has replaced the original cheese head screws on their Norton motor cases with stainless steel allen headed fasteners can clearly appreciate that this whole issue of "authorship" is a tempest in a tea kettle, or more precisely, a non-issue.
Respectfully,
Mark LaPierre
 
RedRider1971 said:
dave M said:
Regarding the heim link. You can obtain this product from a wide range of manufacturer sources, and in a wide range of qualties and price. Only one manufacturer, however, produces a "Heim" joint. All others are generic by name - Rose joint, Rod End, etc. That's how the marketplace operates - an individual invents and others participate in the evolutionary process. Would you prefer that each innovator who improved on the Heim Link concept had gone back to Mr. Heim and offered their ideas for improvement to him for gratis?

Respectfully,
Mark LaPierre

Except... "Mr. Heim" didn't invent the spherical joint according to Wikipedia.

The spherical rod end bearing was developed by the Germans in World War II.[1] When one of the first German planes to be shot down by the British in early 1940 was examined, they found this joint in use in the aircraft's control systems. The H.G. Heim Company was given an exclusive patent to manufacture these joints in North America, while in the UK the patent passed to Rose Bearings Ltd.[2] The ubiquity of these manufacturers in their respective markets led to the terms heim joint and rose joint becoming synonymous with their product. After the patents ran out, the common names stuck although "rose joint" remains a registered trademark of Rose Bearings Ltd. Originally used in aircraft, the rod end bearing may be found in cars, trucks, race cars, lawn tractors, boats, industrial machines, go-karts, radio-control helicopters, and many more applications.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rod_end_bearing

So it was basically "war booty" acquired from the Germans.

Back to your product, the market will decide if you sell any. Good luck.
 
All this fuss about 2 almost identical products . I would'nt pay a single dollar for either of them . Both are way too complex to solve a very simple problem .
i while ago I showed a perfect working headsteady that is simple , easy to make , extremely compact and light , no moving parts ...Maybe I should market it under a fancy name and ask an exorbitant price for it to get some attention . Anyway , this is the last thing I am ever going to say about headsteadies and I won't reply to any comments .
 
ludwig said:
All this fuss about 2 almost identical products . I would'nt pay a single dollar for either of them . Both are way too complex to solve a very simple problem .
i while ago I showed a perfect working headsteady that is simple , easy to make , extremely compact and light , no moving parts ...Maybe I should market it under a fancy name and ask an exorbitant price for it to get some attention . Anyway , this is the last thing I am ever going to say about headsteadies and I won't reply to any comments .

Please, please. Share your knowledge and we'll all shut up, and I will humiliate myself in public to make amends for my foolish and mercenary ways! But please, please; what is the simple answer to this inarguably simple problem.
 
Red Rider,

You seem to have an abrasive demeanor. I'm certain others who post here have the same, but are not as eager to display it as you. Your product looks good, but your salesmanship leaves something to be desired.
 
JimC said:
Red Rider,

You seem to have an abrasive demeanor. I'm certain others who post here have the same, but are not as eager to display it as you. Your product looks good, but your salesmanship leaves something to be desired.
My apologies. I'm a New Yorker. Spirited debate is what I was attempting. No offense intended.
 
AND THE COST, how can anyone justify the cost as 1 year r and d if it worked or if it did,nt it would have shown up in a week
 
chris plant said:
AND THE COST, how can anyone justify the cost as 1 year r and d if it worked or if it did,nt it would have shown up in a week

May I suggest you do your own independent analysis and see what cost you derive? The CAD, CNC, and materials procurement process is quite open to review and costing.
 
RedRider1971 said:
dave M said:
Redrider, your head steady looks to be a copy of the Dave Taylor model except yours is over 3 times more expensive!!

You need to exercise your powers of perception. The similarity ends at the concept.!

The only real difference I can see is that you use a hexagon bar and two male rod ends instead of male and female. A very small advantage as it can be adjusted a bit more precisely - the male-female setup is good for 1/2 pitch as well - and it can be done with the rod-ends attached. But you have the disadvantage of a further thread which might come loose so it's not all gold.

If you understand what the head steady is about, then you would not think what you say.

Well, I'd still be tempted to say the same. And mixing Isos with rods is not the superduper halleluja idea anyway.

Look again. With all due respect, if you don't understand the differences, you should reconsider your level of understanding of the Norton Commando. As to it being a copy - yes, if the bolt has been designed, then it is designed; the next challenge is to improve upon it!

The improvement is marginal and honestly the clamping on the tube is plain bullshit. Norton themselves didn't really get it right to feed the force into the frame but the clamp which you (and others) are using is certainly worse than utilising the existing mounting point.

So IMHO you make a very agressive sales pitch - which looks like bragging to me - and blame very similar parts to be inferior. Your "improved concept" is a minor detail but you don't rectify the worst error. On top you arrogantly accuse critics of nescience. I hope you don't plan on making a living from selling Norton bits, do you?


Tim
 
"The improvement is marginal and honestly the clamping on the tube is plain bullshit. Norton themselves didn't really get it right to feed the force into the frame but the clamp which you (and others) are using is certainly worse than utilising the existing mounting point.

So IMHO you make a very agressive sales pitch - which looks like bragging to me - and blame very similar parts to be inferior. Your "improved concept" is a minor detail but you don't rectify the worst error. On top you arrogantly accuse critics of nescience. I hope you don't plan on making a living from selling Norton bits, do you?"


The improvement [over the Dave Taylor?] is a function of one's interest in properly measuring and adjusting the vertical alignment of the motor/swingarm assembly. Rather than claiming "BS", may I suggest you test your claims with either calculation, empirical analysis, or both? My guess from your statement is that you are not an engineer; if you are, then go back and give the subframe arrangement some more analysis. You might also notice that my HS fits beneath all Commando tanks without any conflicts. I also run an intake rocker cover breather; my HS doesn't conflict with that application.

Bragging? Aggressive? Perhaps; but certainly confident. It's interesting that nearly a year has passed since I offered up my HS for consideration. Over that time, I've put around 12k interstate miles on my HS; extended +90 mph interstates, high speed sweepers, aggressive mountain switches, high speed country roads, etc. Much of that with bags and gear on the back. Rain, hot, cold, dry, etc. Frankly, I'm done with this thread. I'll continue to ride happily while you and others come up with all the explanations of how I'm full of shit. Curious, over the same time Comstock has come up with his version. How's his adjusted in place? Yes, with mine, preloading on the isos does occur when you adjust for vertical alignment of the rear wheel - unless one re-engineers the frame and all connecting elements - that's just a fact of original Commando manufacturering. I've yet to see what the problem is with "preloading the isos". Here's a question - do you adjust the front wheel alignment on your cars?

Oh, and over the past time, I've given a lot of study to Windy's, English's, and other front iso rod links. I respect their work - thoughtful and effective; just a bit cobby for my taste. And, based on all their good work, I'm now making a nice billet alloy version of my own to work in combination with my HS - I do believe that appearance counts for something on a Norton.

Lastly, no I don't plan to make a living on selling Norton parts; I support those who already do here in the USA and elsewhere; they get lots of good manufactured parts from UK, AUS, NZ, but I prefer to support our local economy. However, I do plan on continuing to improve, and learn, and modify, and ride, and ride the stink out of my Commandos!

Thank you for your interest.

Cheers Mate.
 
RedRider1971 said:
It's interesting that nearly a year has passed since I offered up my HS for consideration.


And sold not one. Sorry bud, I couldn't help myself. :mrgreen:
 
No offense taken. Actually, I'm working with a reseller. But hey, this is a conservative lot, in'it? In the meantime, the best kept secret remains so!
 
hewhoistoolazytologin said:
I should break the stubborness barrier and buy one of those rose joint things. Look to be the cat's meow. Still back to the same question though. The Norvil setup is great other than being poorly designed and I'd still like to just repair what I got and have done with it. The budget for the bike just isn't up to the Dave Taylor approach at the moment.
Norvil Head steady...worn out...fix?

You can replace the plates with something more substantial. I made up a set out of stainless, can't remember the type but it's strong and hard enough. They're thicker by 1/16". Riding on the threads doesn't help things, but it too can be overcome. After all of that, I hate the damn things. I bought a DT a few weeks ago from RGM. $120, which included shipping. I Love It. It has design flaws, but they don't appear to be an issue. It was easy to setup, no added vibration, if anything, less. If and when I wear it out or break it I'll get one of CNW's, they are just about perfect. But I'm waiting for Jim to come out with a packaged 3 piece suit. Front, rear, and headsteady linkages. With a gift certificate to Computrack :D
http://computra.startlogic.com/alignment.htm
 
hewhoistoolazytologin said:
Yeh...I got it, you guys.

I should break the stubborness barrier and buy one of those rose joint things. Look to be the cat's meow. Still back to the same question though. The Norvil setup is great other than being poorly designed and I'd still like to just repair what I got and have done with it. The budget for the bike just isn't up to the Dave Taylor approach at the moment. The future might hold one in sight, but not now. If I had the lathe and such I'd just bore out the plates to oversize, turn a couple bushings to bring the holes back down to specs and make a longer bolt to go all the way though the bushes and be done with it. I was just hoping there was some kit to be had so I could just get it fixed.

I did a good 200 miles today on a club run up in the mountains. Beautiful day and we had a good time with about 25 bikes or so. But the rattle at the idle is a bit annoying and I will have to do something soon before it pops a crack in the frame or tank or something. Thanks again for the tips. Just wish I could afford to take the advise...
:lol:

I have a complet Norvil Head Steady in a box in the garage pay postage and you can have it..side plates in good nick
 
Hi all,
Ive got the Dave Taylor head steady on my 72 interstate now instead of the original rubbish effort designed by Norton (sorry Norton designers)
The Bike handles better than its ever done before, although the vibes dont seem to go until about 3500 rpm.
Maybe ive got the vernier issos a bit tight but handling seemed more important than the 3500rpm bit.
Most updates are better in some way than original components & the head steady is pretty much out of view anyway.
I am really enjoying riding my commando now after rebuilding it 2 years ago. Before that it sat in the garage for 5 years waiting for me to get the enthusiasum (& money) to strip & rebuild it, but i'm glad I did now.
Just replacing items was easier for a non skilled person like me than doing my own engineering work.
Happy riding all.

ps, ive just noticed this is actually an old thread but has been replied to again recently.
 
Hmm so have I and it appears to be going nowhere like the last "improvement on the DT design thread" which if memory serves became somewhat acrimonious can we not go all over it again : please :roll: :roll: :roll:
 
Don Tovey said:
Hi all,
Ive got the Dave Taylor head steady on my 72 interstate now instead of the original rubbish effort designed by Norton (sorry Norton designers)
The Bike handles better than its ever done before, although the vibes dont seem to go until about 3500 rpm.
Maybe ive got the vernier issos a bit tight but handling seemed more important than the 3500rpm bit.
Most updates are better in some way than original components & the head steady is pretty much out of view anyway.
I am really enjoying riding my commando now after rebuilding it 2 years ago. Before that it sat in the garage for 5 years waiting for me to get the enthusiasum (& money) to strip & rebuild it, but i'm glad I did now.
Just replacing items was easier for a non skilled person like me than doing my own engineering work.
Happy riding all.

ps, ive just noticed this is actually an old thread but has been replied to again recently.

Have you fitted the spring thingy?
 
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