old Norvil head steady

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seattle##gs

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The type that looks like another isolastic unit. The main body bolts to the head. It attaches to the frame via 2 triangular plates. One end is bolted to the usual spot on the frame and the other bolts to a bracket clamped to the frame. There is no way in the world the triangle plates are going to bolt up. The big hole fits the isolastic bolt . The rear can be made to fit. The front bolt is hopeless even with the bracket being slotted. Is this REALLY BAD construction? Or, if I jack up the motor I could fit the third bolt but that means the head steady would be carrying at least half the weight of the motor ALL THE TIME. What is going on here? I think the real solution is to cut new plates.
 
Curious to know if it is a Les E norvil head steady? I own several.
I know for a fact there is at least another maker (I own one of these also though I don't know the source.)
Regardless, Having used these since the late 80's, I learned the bottom/regular ISO rubbers can take a set over time from being on the side stand. What originally went on easily and IAW the instructions that later there was obvious side thrust originating from below.
Fit up was tougher because the top of the engine is now shifted to one side while at rest...maybe front sag also?
A bit of engine vibration fed to the frame was the result this would also be the case if you were using a link type, though it could be adjusted out...
 
The left plate is on ...barely. The right side is a mile off. Even with the slot. It sounds like for best results the front iso should be renewed and HOPE the top iso bolts can be used. It sounds like there is the possibility of feeling more vibration using this thing even under best conditions. Like I said, I can make this fit by putting a jack under the motor until the bolts line up but then the head steady will be carrying most of the weight of the motor which doesn't sound good. Or I can cut new plates which doesn't sound good either.
 
There's something wrong here
Even if the ISOs have a bit of sag it shouldn't take much to pop the bolts in
Is this unit an original norvil or is it from "the beard norvil" if it's from the beard then absolutely anything is possible with the fit!
 
It is a newer version. I have the older style but never used it. I remember trying to install it and ran into problems. I think it was too wide and hit the tank.
Anyway I can't think of any other reason for the head steady not lining up. At this point I'm wondering if it is worth the effort.
 
I agree with DynoDave, there is every chance that your lower isolastics have settled, allowing the engine to drop down.
I have driven out old lower isolastic rubbers which were 3/8" off center. The isos on my 68 Fastback had settled so much that the cradle was hammering on the lower cross frame.

The brackets are slotted to give you some adjustment for iso sag, (and manufacturing error in all the related components).

When is the last time the lower isolastic rubbers were replaced? Perhaps now would be a good time.
Or make new head steady side plates that work with the sag you have now.
Or jack the engine, get the bolts in, and see what you end up with.

I have a Comstock head steady which has double heim joints and iso sag is pretty much irrelevent.
I have never installed the Norvil style head steady but recall reading they are fussy to set up and tend to transfer engine vibrations to the frame, handlebars, etc.

Let us know how it goes.
 
I've read claims that the 850 suspension spring can help alleviate the settling issues associated with the lower ISOs, but am uncertain if this is a spurious connection. I installed the spring mostly to help dial out some of the low rev vibes
 
Orignal norvil vs my original fair spares in 1988... I never heard of norvil as a company selling products

New vs old version never heard of that either

Well both mine are Les's and were originally fine to install. The iso settling is not an up/down sagging problem it is twist from being on the side stand. Then when the bike is UP and straight the engine tips to the side a little and if you just push it back in line to assemble the norvil headsteady the result is a constant side load that make the bike shake a little, but noticeably, that was NOT there when good ISO were first on the bike.
 
Member bwolfie was making these and selling them on the forum a number of years ago.
 
I have seen many different versions of the norvil head steady over the years
Anything pre 1980 would be pre beard type?
After seeing Ludwig's arrangement I don't think I'd bother with the norvil one
 
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Ages ago I bought one of these, the front mount that clamps over the frame tube was different so I call this one "early". The one I am working on has a different front clamp so I call it "late". Can't even remember where or when I bought it. I remember fighting with it then. It is still in a box (most of it) and free to whoever wants it.
 
Still trying to get my head around how the side stand causes the iso rubbers to sag. On the front iso rubbers all the weight of the engine is downwards when the bike sits on center stand, side stand, or if riding. The rear isos are a bit more complex, so riddle me the front half first.
 
Stephen Hill said:
Still trying to get my head around how the side stand causes the iso rubbers to sag. On the front iso rubbers all the weight of the engine is downwards when the bike sits on center stand, side stand, or if riding. The rear isos are a bit more complex, so riddle me the front half first.
Click to expand...

There will be a twist to the lower isolastics when on the side stand from leaning over, but I don't think it should have a major impact unless the bike has been on the side stand for 40 years.
 
My thoughts exactly. Besides, when the rubbers are pooched, they sag on both sides, not on just the left (or the right.)
 
Is the headsteady similar to this one?https: //andover-norton.co.uk/img/imagescaler/90/909b3633ecd23e1139b3b688b6fd0564.jpg
I bought it and both lower ones also.
I tried to do the top first. It would not line up.
I replaced both bottom ones (they were deformed, front more so) then the the headsteady lined up without a problem.
 
I bought one of Les's (061484) back in the late 80'. Ordered the regular steel one. Out of stock, they upgraded to SS no charge.
Since then (1995) I bought one for my MKIII .
I have acquired another version that may have been a Ron F repop that also looks like the AN one. (bent front legs)
Am I just lucky? they all seem to bolt up OK.

AN
06.7263
FACTORY RACER HEAD STEADY (06.1484)
124.95 excl. VAT

Norvil (Les)
06-1484 79£
06-1484SS 98£

RGM
dave taylor full kit 118£

swooshdave said:
There will be a twist to the lower isolastics when on the side stand from leaning over, but I don't think it should have a major impact unless the bike has been on the side stand for 40 years.
Click to expand...
Any experts on rubber settling/setting?

franko said:
I tried to do the top first. It would not line up.
I replaced both bottom ones (they were deformed, front more so) then the the headsteady lined up without a problem.
Click to expand...
As I would have expected...

With the DT type do you stress adjust the iso twist out (straight) and live with the vibration and load on the link?
Or lengthen the link and let the settled isos run the engine/tranny /rear wheel crooked?
 
dynodave said:
I bought one of Les's (061484) back in the late 80'. Ordered the regular steel one. Out of stock, they upgraded to SS no charge.
Since then (1995) I bought one for my MKIII .
I have acquired another version that may have been a Ron F repop that also looks like the AN one. (bent front legs)
Am I just lucky? they all seem to bolt up OK.

AN
06.7263
FACTORY RACER HEAD STEADY (06.1484)
124.95 excl. VAT

Norvil (Les)
06-1484 79£
06-1484SS 98£

RGM
dave taylor full kit 118£


Any experts on rubber settling/setting?


As I would have expected...

With the DT type do you stress adjust the iso twist out (straight) and live with the vibration and load on the link?
Or lengthen the link and let the settled isos run the engine/tranny /rear wheel crooked?
Click to expand...
I also bought one from Ron F back in the 70's. It didn't fit well, as my '71 750 had the head milled to raise compression ala Combat. Had new side plates made to fit
correctly and all good for years. A worthwhile upgrade, especially for a 750. Stock headsteady was flimsy and cracked very soon.
 
I bought a steel version from the "Beard" years ago. It buzzed holes in 2 Roadster tank from contact with the bolts fastened to the triangular plates. I ended up that I fixed both tanks with easyflo silver solder. Back in my young and foolish days when I expected all Norton Parts fit perfectly with out customizing to make sure it will.
 
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