Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration
- Thread starter grandpaul
- Start date
I happened to run into a piece on the hybrids that covers removing the head in the frame.
All these first machines went to Berliner, the main distributor in the USA. There must have been quite a hectic rush at the factory to get the scramblers built because there were a few 'oversights' on the first batches. One was that it was impossible to remove the cylinder head in situ because even when the exhaust rocker spindles were extracted there still was not enough clearance between the top frame tube, to tilt the head back and withdraw the push rods because the three cylinder head studs were about 1/8" too long, necessitating lowering of the engine. These studs were shortened on all subsequent Atlas engines.
All these first machines went to Berliner, the main distributor in the USA. There must have been quite a hectic rush at the factory to get the scramblers built because there were a few 'oversights' on the first batches. One was that it was impossible to remove the cylinder head in situ because even when the exhaust rocker spindles were extracted there still was not enough clearance between the top frame tube, to tilt the head back and withdraw the push rods because the three cylinder head studs were about 1/8" too long, necessitating lowering of the engine. These studs were shortened on all subsequent Atlas engines.
grandpaul
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2008
- Messages
- 13,330
More new stuff-
Washers, o-rings, wiring harness, fork seals, start capacitor, tail lamp, and the CORRECT layshaft top gear. Now the trany and finally go back together.
Handlebars, fork stanchion tubes, clutch lever assy, gas tank badges, speedo cable, cush rubber set, bulb, warming light, "Reserve" decal, "Oil recommendation" decal.
Washers, o-rings, wiring harness, fork seals, start capacitor, tail lamp, and the CORRECT layshaft top gear. Now the trany and finally go back together.
Handlebars, fork stanchion tubes, clutch lever assy, gas tank badges, speedo cable, cush rubber set, bulb, warming light, "Reserve" decal, "Oil recommendation" decal.
grandpaul
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2008
- Messages
- 13,330
This is the last of the regular order new parts, will have one big re-orde on the "backordered" stuff in a couple of weeks afte I lay out all the pre-assembly and double-check what's missing that didn't get on the original list.
Fork gaiters, front & rear brake shoes, f.brake, clutch & speedo cables, front brake/choke lever assy, drive & primary chains, rubber bits, wheel bearings, horn/dip switch, zener diode, misc. screws, min. oil level decal, chain master link & 1/2 link.
Fork gaiters, front & rear brake shoes, f.brake, clutch & speedo cables, front brake/choke lever assy, drive & primary chains, rubber bits, wheel bearings, horn/dip switch, zener diode, misc. screws, min. oil level decal, chain master link & 1/2 link.
Grandpaulgrandpaul said:
Where do you buy parts. I have been using Baxter and I just called them because one of my stanchion tubes has some pitting.
I tried unsuccessfully to buff it out with a fine emery stone but only succeeded in making the pit larger. Baxter has the tubes in stock, but they have a $200 tag. Is that reasonable?
THX
Bruce
ludwig said:
what are these holes ?
Looks like someone drilled these to knock out the bearing .
As I said before , if you or somebody else intend to actually ride this bike , I URGENTLY advise you to do something about the way the inner primary case is fixed to the engine case . Now , before you install the crankshaft , you have the opportunity to install 2 studs , at 9 and 3 o'clock with a flat head so that they clear the crank . In the holes at 1 and 5 o'clock you can only install the original cheese head screws, because of clearance with the chain .
If you decide not to do this , and these 3 screws come loose ( and they will ) this will have some annoying consequences , like screws being caught by the chain , loss of electrical power , etc ..; And getting access to these screws afterwards is a hell of a job !
I dug up an old inner primary from my attic to illustrate my desperate but futile attempts to keep these 3 srews tight .
loctite only helps for a short while . Maybe loctite 648 can hold them in , but i didn't had that at the time :
(Ultimately , it's your decision ).
Ludwig
I have this exact problem. One of the screws came out and ran through my primary chain untracking it by one row so it was running on two rows on the clutch basket end. I ordered new bolts and locking tab washers when I ordered my chain but they were too small for the existing holes. Obviously the previous owner or shop had a problem and drilled out and retapped those three holes for larger bolts so the tab washers wouldn't fit. When I asked my supplier what was the fix, he said loctite it.
Now that I've read your thread (especially your comments on the durability of loctite), I'm wondering what IS the fix? Do I have to take the crankcase halves apart to fix it properly? I thought of helicoiling it but didn't want to take the chance of moving bits into the crankcase.
Open for suggestions
THX
Bruce