Newbie, couple of questions

Hmmm...engine oil is interesting:
  • Castrol GTX 20W50 w/filter (Summer)
  • Valvoline VR1 20W50 w/filter (Autumn)
Which should I go with?

Also, doesn't seem to have a filter. I see there is an aftermarket. Something good to add?
Thanks
For sure this is the question of the century. To be honest, they are both quality oils and I use them interchangeably. I have a '67 MG Midget and use the same oil in there as well. So, whichever one is on sale somewhere, I buy a bunch of 5L jugs and keep them on hand. I found no difference between them. Then again, I change my oils and filters often. As far as filters, I generally use the Wix 51348, but you need to have the thread adapter since these are the larger thread. I got the adapter from Matt Rambow at Colorado Norton works a while back. You can get a 12-pack here.

 
Yeah, it's crazy to look at the list of things that I did on both bikes over the few years of ownership. If only my wife saw that, and knew the $ "invested" into these bikes, I would be in very big trouble. Very...:)

Manu, definitely look at safety first as you look at upgrades, and then you can move to cosmetics. From my list you can see quite a lot of safety updates I've done to the 850, and to a lesser degree the Combat since I don't ride it much. If you need contacts for places to get parts and such, this is a terrific group to start with, or ping any one of us directly and we'll point you in the tried and true direction.

Cheers,
Rob
 
A good friend rode his Commando from central Mexico to Tierra del Fuego, then reversed direction and headed to the North Slope of Alaska, then back down to central Mexico. The oil he chose as he needed it on the 25000 mile ride was "whatever oil was on the local grocery store shelf." Bike's still running just fine. ;)
 
well, seems i do have an oil filter. Andover. It was underneath behind the tranny. I was looking up. guess I shouldn't do that. Sure was squeaky tight after 10 years. Big channel locks and grunts got it off. Drained sump and oil didn't look too bad. Poked around the oil tank and seemed pretty clean. At least rinse with kerosene or something. Both fuel cocks totally clogged. Took them out and nothing on the filters so clog must be lower. Soaking in carb cleaner at the moment. Hopefully will unclog. But new ones going on the list along with tank.
 
well, seems i do have an oil filter. Andover. It was underneath behind the tranny. I was looking up. guess I shouldn't do that. Sure was squeaky tight after 10 years. Big channel locks and grunts got it off. Drained sump and oil didn't look too bad. Poked around the oil tank and seemed pretty clean. At least rinse with kerosene or something. Both fuel cocks totally clogged. Took them out and nothing on the filters so clog must be lower. Soaking in carb cleaner at the moment. Hopefully will unclog. But new ones going on the list along with tank.
If your taps are that clogged, your carbs are highly likely in need of some TLC too…
 
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Start with a couple of basic questions like how long was it sitting, under what conditions, and why was it put away.

You are just beginning to figure out how much you don't know about the overall condition of the motorcycle.
You miss one corrective step that needs to be addressed, and things can go south in a hurry.
Be methodical and analytical don't cheat don't take shortcuts.
One frayed cable, or one loose nut can change everything about you're doing.
 
Thanks. Good advice. I got the bike from a friend who's had her for 50 years. So not completely lost. He's pretty busy so don't want to bug him too much, but I will be getting receipts for past work once he gets around to finding them. He said it ran great when he parked her, with not many miles on a pretty good going through. Still, sitting for that long is huge so i agree that everything is suspect and will take your advice to heart. Plus it's been 25 years since I've had a bike, so I'm suspect as well.
 
I can't understand a lot of Norton's over in the USA 50 years old and have so little miles on the clock, is it because of all the winter months of not riding, or owner scared to ride them with fear of them breaking down or they been ridden so hard in such short time that something major has happened to them or they haven't been maintained that they wore out on such low miles, who knows.

I brought my 74 Commando new being young (17 years old) I flogged the sh it out of it for the first 4 years then I Pulled it all down for the Featherbed conversion the bores were worn oval from the flogging I gave it so a rebore was part of the Featherbed rebuild and other work that was done to my motor for smooth running with hard mounted motor as well a balanced crank for the Featherbed, started the conversion in 1980 and was back on the road 2 1/2 years later, I was unemployed at the time so money was a bit tight then before starting work at the Tec College at the start of 82, where I had the machines and tool to finish off the conversion.

At the time I had went with 40 oversize Hepolite pistons and the rebore and final hone was very min with less clearance than what Hepolite recommended, I ran it in the first 100 mile on a very cold winter night, to this day I am still running those same pistons and my motor still feels tight, they were re ringed just over 15 years ago when I replace the crank case from a few hairline cracks around the main seal area (thinnest part of the motor) and that rebore and pistons have well over 130k miles on and yet my motor is still very reliable, before the rebore and flogging I gave that motor when I was young and silly had about 30k miles and the original bore was worn oval from all the burnouts I done.

One thing that has worked for me since 1982 when I put the Norton back on the road in the Featherbed frame I been mixing STP with my oil changes even right up today and I think that is one major reasons my motor is still running good and even when I replaced the crank the bores were still good as well the pistons, only gave it a light hone when I put the new rings in, that was 15 years ago.

So what I am saying you keep up the maintenance, run good oil and Commando motors are very reliable and will get long life/miles out of them, my Norton was a every day rider till 2013, I still rode it hard but I didn't flog it like I did when I was young and silly, I am still running the same 2S cam profile on my original cam that was built up and reground back in 82, am still running my original valves that came from the factory but the guides been replace 3 x, first time from a stuff up by a so call head expert, but the head has been ported for my cam and exhaust I run very open mufflers with a bit of back pressure.

I just can't understand why so many have done full rebuilds with so little miles on them or let them sit for 30+ years without been run, Commando motors are so simple and are easy to do work on them as well keeping them maintained, all my British bikes have always been ridden and ridden hard but not flogged, I have owned 2 older Triumphs and 2 modern Triumph Thruxtons and all had lots of miles clocked up on them, my life has always been on bikes since I was 15 years old and the Norton is now 50 years in my ownership and is still going stronger than when I first brought it new in 1976, but has a lot more torque than it did from stock, and I just did simple mods to the motor to make it go better without throwing too much money into it, but the things were cheap to do back in the 80s, but love to build a motor with Jims bits inside it, if only I could afford it all.

Ashley
 
Thanks. Good advice. I got the bike from a friend who's had her for 50 years. So not completely lost. He's pretty busy so don't want to bug him too much, but I will be getting receipts for past work once he gets around to finding them. He said it ran great when he parked her, with not many miles on a pretty good going through. Still, sitting for that long is huge so i agree that everything is suspect and will take your advice to heart. Plus it's been 25 years since I've had a bike, so I'm suspect as well.
Suggest you take a motorcycle safety course. Not that expensive and you will get a break on your insurance. They also provide bikes, so you can sign up for the course while you are sorting out your Norton.
 
Suggest you take a motorcycle safety course. Not that expensive and you will get a break on your insurance. They also provide bikes, so you can sign up for the course while you are sorting out your Norton.
Myself I think Margie’s tip is the best upgrade tip that has been mentioned. I took the MSF course after riding motorcycles for over 40 years and it showed me many bad habits I had.These guys are pros at what teach and leave you a lot more comfortable with your bike.
Don’t hesitate to sign up for one.Money well spent!
Mike
 
Myself I think Margie’s tip is the best upgrade tip that has been mentioned. I took the MSF course after riding motorcycles for over 40 years and it showed me many bad habits I had.These guys are pros at what teach and leave you a lot more comfortable with your bike.
Don’t hesitate to sign up for one.Money well spent!
Mike
 
I can't understand a lot of Norton's over in the USA 50 years old and have so little miles on the clock, is it because of all the winter months of not riding, or owner scared to ride them with fear of them breaking down or they been ridden so hard in such short time that something major has happened to them or they haven't been maintained that they wore out on such low miles, who knows.

I brought my 74 Commando new being young (17 years old) I flogged the sh it out of it for the first 4 years then I Pulled it all down for the Featherbed conversion the bores were worn oval from the flogging I gave it so a rebore was part of the Featherbed rebuild and other work that was done to my motor for smooth running with hard mounted motor as well a balanced crank for the Featherbed, started the conversion in 1980 and was back on the road 2 1/2 years later, I was unemployed at the time so money was a bit tight then before starting work at the Tec College at the start of 82, where I had the machines and tool to finish off the conversion.

At the time I had went with 40 oversize Hepolite pistons and the rebore and final hone was very min with less clearance than what Hepolite recommended, I ran it in the first 100 mile on a very cold winter night, to this day I am still running those same pistons and my motor still feels tight, they were re ringed just over 15 years ago when I replace the crank case from a few hairline cracks around the main seal area (thinnest part of the motor) and that rebore and pistons have well over 130k miles on and yet my motor is still very reliable, before the rebore and flogging I gave that motor when I was young and silly had about 30k miles and the original bore was worn oval from all the burnouts I done.

One thing that has worked for me since 1982 when I put the Norton back on the road in the Featherbed frame I been mixing STP with my oil changes even right up today and I think that is one major reasons my motor is still running good and even when I replaced the crank the bores were still good as well the pistons, only gave it a light hone when I put the new rings in, that was 15 years ago.

So what I am saying you keep up the maintenance, run good oil and Commando motors are very reliable and will get long life/miles out of them, my Norton was a every day rider till 2013, I still rode it hard but I didn't flog it like I did when I was young and silly, I am still running the same 2S cam profile on my original cam that was built up and reground back in 82, am still running my original valves that came from the factory but the guides been replace 3 x, first time from a stuff up by a so call head expert, but the head has been ported for my cam and exhaust I run very open mufflers with a bit of back pressure.

I just can't understand why so many have done full rebuilds with so little miles on them or let them sit for 30+ years without been run, Commando motors are so simple and are easy to do work on them as well keeping them maintained, all my British bikes have always been ridden and ridden hard but not flogged, I have owned 2 older Triumphs and 2 modern Triumph Thruxtons and all had lots of miles clocked up on them, my life has always been on bikes since I was 15 years old and the Norton is now 50 years in my ownership and is still going stronger than when I first brought it new in 1976, but has a lot more torque than it did from stock, and I just did simple mods to the motor to make it go better without throwing too much money into it, but the things were cheap to do back in the 80s, but love to build a motor with Jims bits inside it, if only I could afford it all.

Ashley
Most British Bikes would die around 10,000 Kms . or so . Who knows ?
No fresh grease , rainy cold climate , battery death , etc .
 
Most British Bikes would die around 10,000 Kms . or so . Who knows ?
No fresh grease , rainy cold climate , battery death , etc .
Well mine never, and my 1981 Triumph Thunderbird clocked up 250k kms before I done a top end rebuild and after converting my Norton to the Featherbed frame back in 82 its still going with the same 40th over bore, but things like batteries etc are just normal replacement things that only have short life of a few years or more, more consumables than anything, I am talking more about engine, GB wear and tear, but then the layshaft bearing did fail at 12k miles, was a easy fix.
 
If your taps are that clogged, your carbs are highly likely in need of some TLC too…
Just thinking if the taps are clogged while on a fiberglass tank, the dissolved fiberglass resin will be quite difficult to get out of the carb jets.
My avitar is a’72 combat I have owned since 1997. I’m another of the NCNOC members living in Stockton. I plan to be at the AMCA Dixon show in June.
 
Hmmm...engine oil is interesting:
  • Castrol GTX 20W50 w/filter (Summer)
  • Valvoline VR1 20W50 w/filter (Autumn)
Which should I go with?

Also, doesn't seem to have a filter. I see there is an aftermarket. Something good to add?
Thanks
Empirically, there is only one oil for me: Royal Purple HPS 20W50 - very low heat from friction, very hi load capacity.

Here is the summary tables of the oil test thread that Nigel posted earlier - https://www.accessnorton.com/Oil-Tests/NortonOil.php
 
I've run royal purple in my last couple of trucks. Noticeable improvement in smoothness and mileage. Wasn't sure about full synthetic in a 1972 engine.

I have two loads of Valvoline VR1. Will run one load for a very short time just to flush the system. Then the second a bit longer. I was surprised that after 11 years there wasn't more sludge. really haven't found any to speak of. No oil came out of the tank, and maybe a quart out of sump, and a tad out of the filter. Filter is an small emgo. I think M14. Will look for an equivalent in town tomorrow.

Dropped the carb bowls today. Dry as a bone and clean. Wonder if the PO ran them dry before storing. It was fun getting the air filter off. Should be more fun putting it back! Also need to drop the pins since I'm at 6k' elevation and it came from sea level. Although tuning is for a later date.

Any spark plugs better than another? Had NGK BP7ES in it but they've been discontinued.

Thanks
 
I have been running RP HPS for the last 10 years.

The guy who ran those extensive tests swears by it too.

I think the equivalent filter fits a Citroën 2CV
 
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